Building the first module section of SL2

From the full design of Siskiyou Line 2 that I've developed, I've carved off a couple of module sections to use as Phase 1 of this new TOMA SL2 project. This first module section is highlighted in the phase 1 track diagram below:

I built this module section out of 1/4" pine plywood, with some 3/4" square stock ripped from a 1x4 and used to reinforce the backdrop spine. I also have used some 1/4" wood strips to reinforce the C-shaped benchwork sections and make them stiff, but still light weight.

The idea is a form of torsion box construction. Here are some photos of this module section, first without the track roadbed surface on it so you can see the structure of the benchwork:

  The method I'm using to construct this module section makes for a box that's quite sturdy, yet very light weight. The C-shaped cross members are all one piece with the spine reinforced with square 3/4" stock. I'm assembling this benchwork using glue and a brad nailer using 1/2" brads, so construction goes very fast

To reinforce each leg of the C, I'm using 3/4" strips of 1/4" plywood glued and nailed on in an L-girder fashion. I've added another 1/4" strip on the ends to allow attaching 1/4" x 1-1/4" runners to space the C sections at the proper distance apart. I've also added some 3/4" stock on the front as legs to keep the module section sitting flat on a table and to provide a place to attach the fascia.

What you see here only weighs about 12.5 pounds and can be lifted with one hand. Next is to make sockets for the PVC pipe legs to go into and then paint the entire thing with gray sealing primer to protect it from the effects of humidity.

The fascia, valance, and backdrop area will all be covered with 1/16" sheet styrene and then painted.

Next, here is the module section with the track roadbed in place. Since this section models the Dillard Forest Products mill area, the entire module is flat. Other module sections will have risers, spline roadbed, and foam scenery.

  On this bottom photo, if you look at the bottom of the upper area where the valance is, you will notice a triangular shape up front -- that's actually a piece of triangular molding that runs along the entire bottom of the valance. I will be putting LED strip lighting there.

The two X'd areas on the backdrop will get cut out because track goes through there back behind the backdrop onto a shelf. This gives the mill a lot more car storage. Plans are to install some LED lighting back there and to use a simple video camera to allow operators to see the cars back "in the mill". I'm expecting to also use some photos mounted along the walls of this hidden area to make it look like you're inside the mill building. I may even model a few lumber loads and a fork lift to increase the sense you're looking at something inside the mill.

All told with the roadbed, this module section currently weighs 13 pounds. The goal with each module section is to make the finished section complete with scenery and structures weigh less than 40 pounds so one person can easily lift it.

So far so good! I've made some boo-boos on this first module section while building it, but it's the very first one and I expect that. But overall, it's a success and I'm eager to get to laying track and moving on to building the next section module that attaches to it.

If you're going to be in Kansas City at the NMRA National Train show this August, make sure and come by our booth. We will have this phase 1 part of SL2 on display. You can study the construction up close for yourself!

Any plans for to show how it

Any plans for to show how it is built, step by step?  I been considering a shadow box for my next layout.

Yes, eventually

Yes, eventually. We're planning both a video and a book. But the release date will be 2019 at the earliest.

Looking sharp JF!  That

Looking sharp JF!  That floating top is like anti gravity. If you do plans as Mr Graser suggested it would be interesting to see your cut maps for getting maximum C pieces out of a plywood sheet  

Jeff

One other note

Great video on similar build

Hi all, I found this video the other week which is very similar to the approach that Joe F is doing.

I think the inbuilt shadow box design is brilliant.

Cheers,

Anthony

SL2 Module1

Wow! Neat concept, Joe! I am going to follow along and try this method since my 6 modules are old school 1x4's with 3/4 plywood and Really Heavy! I am 80 and getting to the point where heavy is something I need to consider, eh? Keep on keeping on and I will try to follow. I agree with the comment above, and a cut list would be really nice to have, eh? hint, hint! Regards, John Colley, Sonoma, CA

My modular layout

The requirements that I had for my modular layout is:

1. It is designed to fit into the upstairs spare bedroom along two walls in an L shape. 14' feet on one wall and 10' along the back wall.

2. It has to be free standing, no attachment or drilling into the walls.

3. It had to fit through the bedroom door, so the modules could only be 28 inches deep. It had to go up the dog leg stairs, so the modules could be 6' long max.

4. The format would be a shadow box with a built in backdrop and overhead lighting.

5. The dimensions of the layout modules turned out to be two modules 5' by 28" deep (24" layout surface) and 24" high. One module is 6' long by 28" deep (24" layout surface) and 24" high. The corner module is 4' by 4' with a removable backdrop (to fit through the door)

6. The theme of the layout is backwoods lumber, so I can run my Shays. The scale is Sn3 (S scale 3 foot narrow gauge.)  NCE DCC wireless, switches built with Fast Tracks jigs and Tortoise switch machines.  The Shays have Loksound decoders.

A few pics taken with a cell phone.

Bill B.

Photos of the back of the module

Hi Joe,

I really appreciate the photos and the description.  It looks great. 

If you have any photos of the back of the module and a flat side view of the C benchwork, could you please post those?  That would be very helpful.  Thanks!

Michael

Proscenium module design

Dear Michael,

Not strictly Joe F's design, but you might want to check out

http://www.krmodels.com.au/module.html
http://www.krmodels.com.au/100dollarmod/100dolarmod.html

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS contrary to the linked articles plan, I would strongly reccomend substituting a lighter, easier-to-handle and cheaper material instead of the mentioned 9mm CD plywood... The core design however is structurally solid, and can be readily adapted for desired length, height, and depth...

More photos of the module as requested ...

Have the module on display at the PNR regional NMRA convention this weekend. Here is an on-end view. Notice the upper valance leg is 2” longer than the lower layout base leg of the C. Also note the triangular piece of molding on the valance for mounting LED strip lighting.

Here is the back of the module. I glued a 3/4” x 3/4” piece of square stock to the 1/4” plywood C to give it some good stiffness. I also used a brad nail gun with 1/2” brads to “clamp” the pieces together while the glue dries.

Here is an overhead view showing the diagonal cross brace on the underside of the valance section.

Thanks for the links

Prof Klyzlr,

Thanks for the links.  I like design on your link and what Joe did because the lighting is self contained and it is lightweight.

Joe,

I like that you put mini legs on module so it could placed on a table top without damaging the front fascia and the module surface is level.  Smart idea.

Michael

$100 module

I was hoping the Prof would post those links. I saw that article a number of years ago and it inspired me to follow that design, although I had to change it. Mine is only 16 inches wide and 18 in tall, that made it difficult to create the curved backdrop that gives it strength, mine is straight. I think the curved backdrop is a really good idea, not just for looks, but also strength.

Mine hangs on the wall, the weight is taken by a 2 X 4 bolted to the wall and then I made a flange on the top that clamps the top to the wall, that leaves the space underneath open where I have my work bench.

Joe F what is the gap between

Joe F what is the gap between the running level and the back drop for?

Gap at bottom of backdrop

Keep in mind the plywood on the backdrop is simply to provide a mounting surface for the 1/16” styrene backdrop and to stiffen up the module. The styrene backdrop will go all the way to the ground (no gaps).

Shadow box design

One of the great advantages to the shadow box design is that it gives you the opportunity to place a cover over the front of the layout when not in use. This keeps an inordinate amount of dust and dirt off the layout. My layout is in the garage with the family car and my wood working tools. Table saws, chop saws, routers, and sanders make a huge mess. If I didn't have the front cover, there is no way I could even consider a layout.

Having recently used this

Having recently used this design in a project I highly encourage the use of Urethane Glue like Gorrilla or LePage. The strength is noticeable.

Shadowbox Design

Joe,

Looking good! 

Every time I see a "C" truss design incorporating the backdrop, valance, etc. in one structure, it really gets me thinking.  On the one hand I see the advantages; structural strength & stability, consistent lighting along the entire scene, the ability to apply a dust cover along the front, et al.  However, every time I have ever operated on a layout with a lighting valance I find myself distracted by the valance itself and drawn to look behind it at the lighting.  This may certainly be my own issue and while I'm probably not the only one, I recognize I may be in the minority on this.

In my current setting I've been designing a layout for the space without any such valance.  The backdrop (will be) hung on the wall like a long picture, with the layout on a shelf/legs in front.  (Currently the 'backdrop' is a bare wall painted off-white).  The lighting is hung from the ceiling.  This works for me because the lights aren't noticeable when you're operating the trains. 

Still, there's something appealing about what you're doing, for the reasons mentioned above, and it causes me to stop and rethink my plans.  I may end up doing what I've planned all along, but I think it is good to periodically challenge our assumptions and consider alternatives.  We may be moving across town in a few years, and being able to easily box in a layout section would be a real advantage over having to create a cover to protect the layout.  I know that move-ability is one of your concerns as well.

Galen

What is the dimension between . . .

the track level and the bottom of the valance, Joe? Also, what is the height of the valance?

Looking good, my friend.