Peco

I use Peco code 100 turnouts everywhere and have been happy so far.  

Randy

The only cautionary thing

The only cautionary thing about Peco code 100 "large" turnouts is someone stated that they are not equal to #6 but rather have a smaller closure radius, maybe closer to #5.  Maybe I need to determine conclusively what a Peco large code 100 turnout is to be sure it's going to be very good for long rolling stock. 

Naturally I want to make sure a staging yard can reliably handle 89' flat cars and long wheel base rolling stock.  That's why I have used standard #6 turnouts as a minimum for a long time.

If costs and minimizing

If costs and minimizing derailments on atlas turnouts is the main driving force..I would suggest just replacing the wheelsets on the .88 cars. That is if it you are going to have different size wheels anyway. If cost is less by replacing turnouts..(or going to have all .88 wheels), then replace them. Just a thought..

Tony, to start with, I don't

Tony, to start with, I don't even remember which cars have code 88 wheels.  I only mentioned code 88 wheels because one or two people have commented that they don't like Atlas code 100 turnouts.

FYI, while those Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts still work fairly well, I've had most of them since around 1988 so I figure due to age,  the fact that when train cars travel through them, the wheels drop like they are going over a pothole and they are getting a bit worn out, it's time to invest in some newer, better turnouts.

I do have a bunch of code 100 Atlas track I can re-use, so it would be a cost savings to re-use it, so I am thinking about code 100 #6 turnout options - that what I am seeking thoughts on.  Cheers.
-

Best Bang for the Buck

  When I was considering an HO layout I found the Atlas code 83 "super switches" a good compromise between quality and price. You might check the MB Klein website to compare them to code 100 turnouts. ....DaveB

Watch out for plastic frog components

Referencing Chester

Joe,

I have to be careful these days at 69.  I reference things I think are common knowledge and 75% of the world don't know what I'm talking about.  Also, seem to be acting more and more like cantankerous Doc.

Frog Adjusting

Jim,

rework your frogs:

This reworked frog accepts now code 110 wheels perfect and reliable. Here two wedges were soldered into the too wide gaps of the frog and now the switch is conform to NMRA Standard S-3.2 . Even code 88 wheels will run here, but not so perfect, because they will cave into the frog caused by their smaller width.

One of the ever lasting mistakes is for the staging yards the use of cheap, which means often older, out of date and standards and often worn out switches. And when the staging yard is underground with limited access, then Murphy's laws play havoc with you. Derailing always take place at the most worst accessible area. I have made this mistake a couple of years too, causing very hassle and spoiled running sessions.

So take a critical look what kind of switches you will built in.

Lutz

@Jim

Either way, It's prob a good idea to know if the wheelsets are the problem. (Since you are guessing)... The other answers above are all good. I don't believe just because you switch brands of turnouts that will eliminate issues with finer scale wheels ( I think Joe has covered this elsewhere). I had problems with a Peco turnout in the past.. same issue you have. My solution was not to have mixed wheelsets. I just kept the standard size and dont use the .88s. No matter what you decide to do... check the gauge as Joe said.. and it only takes a second to look  and know what cars have the .88s..

When I was considering an HO

I already have some Atlas code 83 turnouts and they aren't too bad.  FYI, I'm thinking of replacing  many of those with ME #6 code 83 in main visible yard areas as they are a compromise between cheap Atlas code 83 turnouts and the much more expensive Peco code 83.  ME turnouts, from what I'm reading also have the spring feature to let you use them manually like the Peco but are about $6 less per turnout.

Joe, I have been "taking note" about your discussion on metal vs. plastic frogs. I can't remember which version I bought of the code 100 Peco curve for my last staging yard but at least it was only two.

Let me clarify, I am not looking to go "cheap" unless you consider Peco code 100 turnouts cheap at $20 each.  Maybe "modest" cost would be a little more fair.

I could re-use my Atlas code 83 #6 in staging but then all that code 100 flex wouldn't so useful anymore and I'd have to buy all that and more to replace it with code 83.  Because I have so much code 100 track in good shape that I can re-use, that would save a lot of money - and lets face it, I'm not made of money or I'd go Cadillac all the way.  So since I have to live within my means, I'm looking at tweaking the track angle to improve reliability and running, hopefully without replacing too much track unnecessarily.

Visibility isn't important in staging but smooth running is. 

Cheap construction, not cost per se

When I say cheap, I'm meaning construction methods of the product, not price. You can spend a fortune on turnouts that are built cheaply, too.

The main thing I look at these days is frog area construction and metal guard rails. If it's plastic based, then I pass. Since I focus on building my own turnouts, I automatically get metal frog construction. But if you're going with commercial turnouts, go with all metal frog construction. You may have to cut some gaps around the frog, but with a little care, that's not a big deal.

On commercial turnouts with plastic guard rails but metal frogs, I recommend replacing them with metal guard rails. I show how to do that in my Run like a Dream: Trackwork book.

Basically, I cut off the plastic guard rails and put a couple PC ties in place of the plastic ties. Then I solder the metal guard rails in place, carefully setting the check gauge per the NMRA turnout standards. I also recommend soldering the PC ties to the metal frog wing rails. The result is an all metal frog area with a bullet-proof spot-on check gauge at the frog that isn't going to change.

This reworked frog accepts

Did you mean reworking the frog to accept code 88 wheels instead of 110?  I say that because I really haven't had long term issues with rolling stock I know have 110 wheels.  Those have run well throughy my (now ancient) Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts.  Some years back, following an MR article on tuning the points with a file, they worked very well with my older rolling stock (pre-code 88 wheels era).

As for solding in those wedges, I can say my soldering skills are serviceable but not that good.  Just trying to solder feeders on to my Walthers code 83 #6 double slip switch (per a website on electrical improvements) I managed to melt some of the plastic a bit - so I stopped while I was ahead and that EXPENSIVE switch was till in pretty good shape!  OK, if I melt the Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts, not a major loss but at least I could sell them if I didn't ruin them. 

Right, so at the risk of being impertinent, thats why I created this topic.    I want to try to budget in this year to start buying some track to make ready but take some time to accept feedback and advice so I can make an informed decision.  

On commercial turnouts with

I was bracing myself for that plug as I was starting this topic.  I didn't have to wait long.    

Next, a plug from someone on Fast Tracks.  Halt.

I may get the sermon anyway, but I'm a bit old and stuck in my ways and prefer right now to look at commercial turnout options to keep my next layout from (as they say) growing too much hair!  I've already got a new fixer upper house thats growing too much hair and keeping me from trains for the forseesable future. 

Commercial turnouts are fine

That's fine, that's why I followed the book mention with the steps spelled out for upgrading commercial turnouts, too (so you don't need the book). Upgrading a commercial turnout to spec takes maybe 30 min per turnout. The payoff is flawless performance.

If I removed the context and just told you an extra 30 minutes here and there would get you flawless track performance, would you go for it?

If not, then at least you go in with both eyes open and fully aware of the trade-offs. Rule #1 - it's your railroad.

Thank you Joe - I am always

Thank you Joe - I am always confident I will get solid advise from you based on years of hands on experience!

Decisions about the visible area track seem to be a bit easier since there seems to be a consensus that MicroEngineering #6 code 83 turnouts are a good product and pricewise is in the middle of the pack.

It's the staging that seems less clear, that is if I want to save most of the code 100 track and see if there are any good quality turnouts, even if they cost a bit more.  I have mixed emotions about Shinohara code 100 as I have found through experience that they can have some issues to work through.  Even though they look great, the can often be stubborn to throw, the electrical built in contacts are unreliable so they need more stroking and tweeking (feeder wires, isolating or cutting rail).  The commercial options in code 100 seem to be Atlas, Shinohara, and Peco?  Peco have the plastic frogs "insulfrog" or metal frog "electrofrog"?  Any other commercial prefab options I am missing?

Peco

I went with the peco code 100 and peco flex for staging i'm very happy with performance. You can find some very good prices on ebay. Working on detection/cameras now.

cheers

John

When I built my H0 layout I

When I built my H0 layout I used PIKO track for staging. It is not very expensive and very reliable.

Dear Jim,PECO all day

Peco All Day

I've been using Peco turnouts for over 30 years and they are great !!!

Peco - yes

Jim,

I used Peco turnouts with code 100 in my staging with great results. How many switches are you talking about? I also used an old trick that Tony K referred to years ago - I put all of the turnouts to the stub ended sidings in the staging area right along the edge of the aisle for easy access. I used the electro frog variety

I did have problems with one Peco turnout in a hight traffic spot on the mainline and had to shim the guard rails to keep it in NMRA spec (they are a little wide in that area). Certain finicky cars didn't like that much. Fortunately those cars don't inhabit staging often...

Guy

The only cautionary

Funny you should ask this as on Tuesday or Wednesday myself and my friend Paul were looking into this very thing because of some questions regarding the turnouts on the crossovers on our club layout. We discovered they were large radius pecos. They have a curved track clear through the frog so do not fit the standard frog numbers, The unmodified turnouts all have an angle of 12 degrees at their end point for the diverging route, that is all code 100 turnouts. The difference is the radius of the curve thus the small medium and large designation instead of a number, the large radius turnouts are between a 6 and a 8 turnout in length on the straight side, about 10.65 inches long if I remember correctly.

Most # six turnouts are around 10 degrees for the diverging route.

As to code 88 wheels I have not had issues with mine running through the turnouts but my cars are heavier than the nmra standard and I do make sure they are tuned before being operated on the layout. I am not a fan of the ready to unwrap cars either as I prefer to build my own.

My last comments were not to put down your likes of the rtr stuff just to make sure you knew my equipment was built to a bit different standard when I mentioned no issues with them. Yours if lighter may have issues that mine do not.

Almost forgot to mention in looking at the length of the turnouts I would guess the large radius would fit in the same place a number 7 turn out would but because of the curve would produce a slightly steeper angle.

If I was going to buy turnouts I would likely go with the streamline 83 line in either 6s or 8s if I had the room. That would make for less of a reverse curve in what might be an area that you would want the minimum amount of trouble.

"I could re-use my Atlas code

   I'd just use the code 83 turnouts with the code 100 flextrack. All it requires is a compromise rail joiner. I make them by putting a short piece of code 83 rail in one end of the rail joiner and a short piece of code 100 rail in the other end then turn the assembly upside down on a solid metal surface and hammer on the bottom of the joiner till the rail tops are aligned. When assembling the track shim under the ties as required then solder the joint keeping the rail heads aligned.A bit of touch up with a file if necessary and it's done.....DaveB 

I never had good luck with

I never had good luck with ANY of the Atlas turnouts. Last time I tried one was decades ago, so my bias against them is probably way out of date, but I still cringe when I read the phrase "Atlas turnout." Pavlovian response, I suppose...

For commercial turnouts, I echo what many others have said - Peco. I've used them here and there, and they're pretty darned good. I especially like the over center spring on the points. That makes it pretty hard to split the points because they're always snug against one rail or the other.

But now the expected Fast Tracks plug - I went to those some years ago and will never go back. I've never had a commercial turnout - even the Pecos - work so flawlessly. And these are turnouts I built! You might look into buying them prebuilt. I think there are folks out there that build and sell them. I have no idea what the prices are, though.

PECO HO "StreamLine" range turnout geometry

Dear Rob, MRHers all,

It's a known characteristic that PECO "Streamline" range turnouts (both Code 100 and 75) use a common frog angle and "lengthen the lead" to create the varying "sizes" (equivalent radii) of turnout. This arguably-clever bit of engineering allows all "sizes" of StreamLine-range turnout to work with one common diamond-crossing piece, greatly simplifying trackplanning design, "how much track will fit in a given space?" connundrums, and presumably the manufacturing "range creep" issues for the manufacturer...

For anyone who wants to view the way the PECO streamline components "fit together" without having to buy a load of stuff, PECO provide 1:1 printable templates for free download...

https://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=pointplans

https://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=tempc100

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS NB that the "Code 83" line, while technically part of the "Streamline" range, 
(as opposed to the toy-train-set "Setrack" range),

is explicitly called out as "US Geometry", with fixed-number straight-geometry frogs and AREA-spec tie arrays...