CN 6116

I got a CN and a VIA one, so let's start with CN:

This is the first RDC model, I believe, that has a full interior.  The power for these is via two smaller motors on either end that power the individual trucks in order to allow for the full interior.  You can see all the underbody detail Rapido is famous for, as well as the attention to detail and excellent stainless steel finish.

VIA 6114

The second model is VIA 6114.

In this first photo, you can see the headlight lit up, but unfortunately, I didn't get very good focus to see some of the other details, like the lighted numberboard on the side (you can see it lit up, you just can't read the number).  You can also see the safety chains on the end and the varying window shades that each model has (there are a number of random variations of the window shades, depending on the model you get).  

Here you can see it is headed in the other direction and can kind of see that class lights on the rear above the windows.  The package also includes plenty of fiddly bits to customize your RDC to match the particular time frame and specific model from photos.  It also includes a lighted Gyralite in the body of the door for those models that may have had them, but you need to add the gyralite from the parts bag if you want it, otherwise the door just glows on and off.  There are also ditch lights installed, but you need to install the ditch light housings if you want them.

Finally, my RDC's are LokSound units and sound really good, including the Run to 4 feature, that kind of acts like Full Throttle in that it spools up the engine to notch 4 (there are only 4 notches in an RDC), then you can independently control the throttle and when you release F3 (the notch 4 button), it will normalize the engine to the particular notch you should be in as you are currently running.  There are also several horn variations that were used in RDC and most have been included to choose from in the CV settings.

Important part of the plan

As many of you know, my future layout will be significantly based on passenger operations.  Since switching to HO, my space limits me on how significant my passenger operations can be.  It is out of the question for me to run even 8-10 car trains as they would go from one end of the room to the other in about 30 seconds (I have about 38-40 lineal feet possible).  

These RDC's (and one more I have on order - the 6133 direct from Rapido, which is a model of the real 6133 Rapido is restoring) will play a part in short service from a central hub to two or three smaller towns and then the odd longer train will go from staging to mid-size passenger depot and back to staging with a bit of switching possible at the depot.  Still kind of bringing the plan together.

These models are everything I hoped they would be, and I know any others I've heard that have them, love them.  

Don't void the warranty!

Don't run Rapido RDC's with unpowered stock, as you void the warranty 

Interior lighting

How bright is the interior lighting?  Their past passenger cars were far too bright, it detracted from the otherwise beautiful cars.  I had discussions with Rapido about that and they said it was due to the extended exposure for photos and that the interiors were much dimmer in person.  The numerous Rapido passenger cars that I have are cartoonishly bright in the interior with the lights on.  If the interior is as bright as the headlight and number boards in person then they didn't change things from previous runs.  Any feedback on that?

Marc Simpson 

Marc

I remember your post on the Yahoo group, and that was one of the first things I looked at.  I've got plenty of the Rapido passenger cars and I honestly don't see much of a difference between these interior lights and the passenger cars.  I would think there would be a way to reduce the light through software in the decoder, but that would probably have to be something special ESU would do?  Not sure.

Terrific

Skiloff.

Great models , Out of the two you have I like the CN 6116 best , the black around the windows really makes the stainless steel stand out . Keep on running trains .

Smokey Dawson       Australia

wire cutter dimmer

I suspect the only way to dim the lights is with a wire cutter.  I never got a response on whether there is an on/off switch as part of the board.  Is there anything in the instructions about that?  That would be easier than popping off the shell and cutting wires until the lights go out.  

I'm fortunate as I don't need any RDC-1 so can wait until the RDC-2 comes out, one of those ran from Saskatoon to The Pas during the early '80s so I can justify having one.

Marc Simpson

Me too!

When I saw Rapido's new RDC at the Prototype Rails convention at Cocoa Beach I knew that I had to have one!  I have a doodlebug track on my layout so I purchased a Boston & Maine unit that will run excursions on my line using Tam Valley's "DCC Train Shuttle".  The unit is beautiful and looks great scooting around my layout.

Here's the model I purchased:

Sitting on the doodlebug track:

Nice!

That looks great, Rick!  It's interesting to see the many variations from your B&M model to my VIA and CN units,

Rapido

Man all of the Rapido stuff is so nice looking.

Tom!

I was wondering what you've been up to.  Your blog hasn't been updated for a while.  Hope all is well.

OOH OOH, I got one too. But

OOH OOH, I got one too. But it is on the desk taken apart to see how it works. Damn it some things never change. As long as I get it back together it is all good.

I believe I shared this photo here 2 weeks ago

Braver than me, Ron

After simply removing the shell from one of my FP9's and taking about a week just to get the couplers back on and breaking off several fiddly bits in the process, I'm a bit gun-shy about taking these things apart.  But maybe if I did, I'd get better at it.

Got a picture?

Why not post the picture of it taken apart?  The we will know what to expect.

Regards,

Ok, I will.To remove the

Ok, I will.

To remove the shell you need to remove the couplers and the detail part that is near the couples.

Add the screws in just a few threads back in the unit 

Using a ruler and a metal chisel tool I wedged the front side of the unit and pull the screw with a set of pliers. Pull enough to dislodge the pins the lock the unit together.

Wedge the back pins in the same way and pull the back coupler screw to remove the pins hold.

Oh and don't mind the Proto Paint. I am testing them out with the airbrush.

and the answer to my curiosity. No wires cut...

Thanks Ron

Complete with instructions to disassemble...that's great thanks!

Regards,

I took a picture of mine apart

I'm not sure that I'll get it back together!

Got Mine Today

Looks like the undecs come with all the parts not installed so it's easier to paint if you want.

Now I need to practice some spray painting with my new Iwata airbrush.

Bernd

Looking forward to the RDC-3 units

Since the NYC ran their Beeliners through town from Detroit-Bay City, Mich. - alas, now just a weedy path where Hudsons, EMD E8A and Geeps once strode.