Rob Shilling

I posted a pic a few days ago of a locomotive that I am trying to strip to then repaint. It is an older Bachmann GP 30. It was originally a Chessie System paint job. _2939(1).JPG  

I tried stripping it once using 91% alcohol and got it down to this blue, but you can see that there is a grayish base color to the plastic as seen inside the shell and on the few spots on the side. Should I make another attempt of 91% alcohol to try and strip it further? The only thing I can find here in the middle of nowhere is 50% and 70%, but the hardware has denatured alcohol. Would that work or will it damage the shell? This is my first time doing this and I don't want to mess it up too bad.

Any suggestions?

~ Rob

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DKRickman

Brake fluid or oven cleaner

Rob,

I believe I've use brake fluid on Bachmann shells (even that GP 30, I think) with good results.  I have also had excellent results with oven cleaner (Easy-Off).  I don't think either one would damage the plastic in your shells.

I can't imagine denatured alcohol doing any damage to the plastic, but I'm not sure if it would strip the paint either.  It might, and I don't see much risk in trying.

Ken Rickman

Danville & Western HO modeler and web historian

http://southern-railway.railfan.net/dw/

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MrBandO

Purple Power

I've had good luck with Purple Power Cleaner and Degreaser:

http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html

Our local Auto Zone carries it in gallon jugs.

 

Greg

 

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musgrovejb

Soak Longer

I don't think soaking it further in rubbing alcohol will hurt the plastic.  Sometimes older models require a longer soaking time to remove the paint.  

Modeling Missouri Pacific Railroad's Central Division, Fort Smith, Arkansas

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLENIMVXBDQCrKbhMvsed6kBC8p40GwtxQ

 

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Virginian and Lake Erie

Rob, I have used dot 3 brake

Rob, I have used dot 3 brake fluid with good results. I have let models soak over night and found the paint floats off the models the next day. On occasion I have let them soak a bit longer and finished cleaning the paint off with a soft tooth brush and a very gentle amount of pressure. If you strain the paint from the brake fluid you can reuse it for stripping paint. You will have to have a container you can cover with a tight fitting lid as the brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air. After the paint is removed wash the model completely with water you may even want to soak them for a day and then let air dry. I have done this several times and had no ill effects from it to either myself or the shells and many of my fellow club members use the same method. Hope this helps.

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iDrive

Alcohol

I recently used 99% isopropyl alcohol to strip a Proto 1000 Budd RDC. It doesn't damage plastic, so just let it soak....

The original RDC paint scheme (BC Rail) had blue stripes that were applied over the gray paint, but somehow in some areas the blue seeped through the paint and it stained the plastic. It's not that the plastic is "painted" blue, but it has gotten "inside" the plastic, like it was moulded in that color.

I'll see once I apply the primer how it sticks and if it shows through.

BTW, I got 99% alcohol online from a website selling wood restoration supplies. It is marked "For lab use". It's an Italian website, if you're in Europe I can send you the link.

Guido

 

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dcolton

Easy Lift Off

Here's a photo of a plastic shell I recently stripped; it still needs to be cleaned and polished before priming.  I stripped it down to the bare plastic, which involved stripping both the paint and the primer.  I started with Easy Off oven cleaner, but it didn't work that well.  Then I went to brake fluid.  It worked but took multiple soakings and strippings.  Finally, I resorted to my precious Testor's ELO (Easy Lift Off) which does a great job of removing paint; it's precious because its no longer being made.  I have about a third of a can left and I am very stingy about using it.  The listed ingredients are Glycol Ethers and Isobutyl Alcohol (not isopropyl).  Glycol Ethers are the main ingredient in brake fluid.  Googling Isobutyl Alcohol I only found one source - a 32 oz bottle through Amazon.com for $30.

Whatever product you use, you should cover it while soaking the model to reduce fumes.  Better yet, if the weather is good, put it outside to soak as all of the products are potential carcinogens.

DaveMG_1997A.jpg 

 

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vangaja

Removing Paint / Lettering

Brake fluid has worked for me.  But you must clean the residual brake fluid off quickly.

 

Can anyone suggest a way to remove the railroad name / log and reporting marks from freight cars, yet leave the paint and the dimensional data?  I've heard that the lettering on some brands of car, especially those manufactured in the PRC, is very difficult to remove.

Thanks.

 

Jim van Gaasbeek

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Joe Zika

Brake Fluid Warning

Guys:

Do not soak your plastic shells for any length of time in brake fluid and wash well afterwards, Avoid the Brake Fluid if you can altogether account it breaks down the plastic's composition and makes the plastic very brittle, If you have to, the Brake Fluid should only be used for the older harder dark plastic shells, The newer softer grey plastic shells strip better with Alcohol 91%, Also Chameleon works if you have any or can find some, Polly S' ELO - Easy Lift Off also works, but it is slower.

Joe

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K-Pack

91% alcohol

It's been my go-to and usually works just fine.  I just had a stubborn shell where the paint didn't want to come off easily.  The solution to that is make sure the shell is completely submerged in alcohol, cover the container so none evaporates, and let it sit for hours.  When the paint begins to fall off on its own you're ready to get in and scrub with a toothbrush.  Just give it time, it will nearly always work.

Wear a mask, gloves, and some clothes you don't mind getting dirty.  The toothbrush will spray dissolved paint everywhere.

-Kevin

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akarmani

Stripping paint vs just painting over factory new paint

This is a question and not commentary of the current tread. Is it worth stripping the paint off of a factory new paint job before repainting?  Keep in mind I am asking about a new, right out of the box engine that does not come decorated for your railroad line.

Art

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tommypelley

bleach white

When I was building model cars exclusively we used to use Westley's bleach white to remove the chrome plating from plastic parts. Not sure how it would work for removing paint but may be worth a try.
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Nelsonb111563

Strip the paint

Art, I have tried that and I for one think most factory paint is applied too thick.  Adding more paint will hide the details.  Now keep in mind that I am speaking about older models but I also have noticed this with newer offerings as well.  One of the big problems I see is that most companies use some sort of printing process (Pad printing comes to mind) and by just painting over that you will cover it but will still be able to see what was under it before. 

Nelson Beaudry,  Principle/CEO

Kennebec, Penobscot and Northern RR Co.

Reply 0
railandsail

Super Clean

In the past i was looking for info on this 'stripping subject' as well, and i remember some folks promoting this 'Super Clean' product very strongly. i got some but never got around to doing the one stripping job i had in mind.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Clean-Degreaser-1-Gallon/dp/B000CCM63K

Here was one such discussion:
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-28789.html

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choo choo charlie

Pine-Sol

I just stripped several Mantua olt time passenger cars with full strength Pine-Sol.I just filled a plastic coffee can,dropped them in,let them soak for a few days,and wiped off the paint.No damage to the plastic and no bad smells.As a bonus,when you rinse the off,they already have cleaner on them!

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