rickwade

With the printed backdrop installed on my layout it was time to work on the hills at the back edge of the layout sections.  I had originally decided to use the same extruded foam (2") that I used for the section tops but the more that I thought of it the more I didn't like the idea of carving up the foam.  On my previous layout I had used cardboard webbing with plaster cloth to make the small hills; however, it was a lot of work for the small hills.  I thought about using florist foam, wadded newspaper / paper towels or even screen but didn't like those materials because they can be messy, aren't that easy to get the shape I want or to keep their shape.

Enter tin foil!  Yes, it can add to the cost but I figure the benefits will be worth the cost.  Here's what I like about using foil to form the contours of the hills: 1.) It's easy to form into the shapes I want; 2.) It retains its shape once formed; and 3.) Even with the masking tape added I can easy modify the shape.  The hills shown in the pictures below took me about 10 minutes to create.  I just pulled off some foil and loosely "crunched" into a basic "log" shape and then hot glued it to the foam.  Next I squeezed / crunched the foil into the profile I wanted and finally I put masking tape over the foil.  In a number of places I further worked the foil after the taping to get the look that I wanted.  Here's a couple of pictures of the area.

oilhills.jpg 

 

llswtape.jpg 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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JerryC

Whatever works for you Rick

That looks fine.  How are you going to cover the masking tape? I hope you can slip some kind of non-absorbent barrier behind those hills to protect that sweet backdrop while you're finishing the scenery..

Jerry

Reply 0
jimcol51

Great idea!

That's a great idea for a small area, Rick. It's fast, relatively cheap, clean, and, as you note, easy to modify/shape as you desire. 

It would work well for diorama's and modules too as it doesn't add much weight, although that might depend on what material is now added over the form, I suppose.

Jim C.
Ceres, CA

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rickwade

I'm undecided on the next coating

Thanks guys for your comments.  I haven't decided what I'm going to cover the tape with as of yet, but I will be sure to protect the printed backdrop!  I may use Sculptamold (I have a 25 lb box), plaster cloth, "Goop" (as used by Mike C.) or something else.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
Michael Tondee

Plaster....

You would have to be careful around the backdrop but plaster of paris retarded with lemon juice is what I use to "skim coat" my scenery.  I mix it to about the consistency of latex paint and apply it with a cheap brush. If it's retarded well enough, the plaster will not set up in the brush and I can wash it out and use it again. It makes a smooth surface though and I still have to go back and use rock molds and/or carving. Sculptamold may well be the better choice but I thought I'd throw my method out there anyway.

I like the idea of the tin foil, at least for small areas. It would be really useful when trying to form small hills  and landscpape features near track side.  I'll have to file the idea away for future reference!

Michael

Michael, A.R.S. W4HIJ

 Model Rail, electronics experimenter and "mad scientist" for over 50 years.

Member of  "The Amigos" and staunch disciple of the "Wizard of Monterey"

My Pike: The Blackwater Island Logging&Mining Co.

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Rick it looks like a new industry

Rick it looks like a new industry is in the works with all that tin in the ground. You can now mine for tin and have a concentrator in the area and add a rolling mill to make those nice sheets that the Reynolds wrap people love.

Just kidding, nice durable under structure. It is very likely to be impervious to most things, does not burn, is light weight, easy to form, you may have something there. As an added plus it looks like it will work very well next to the backdrop so that should you desire to make changes later you do not mess up the backdrop.

Thanks for sharing

Rob in Texas

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Bing

Between a hill and a backdrop

A trick I have used when putting on window trim is wax paper. I tape it up before applying the trim so it sticks out beyond the width of the trim. This allows me to stain the trim or paint the wall. When done I cut the wax paper next to the trim board.

How does this apply to a backdrop? Same way, protect the backdrop with the wax paper, build your foreground scenery, plaster, paint etc., when done slide out or cut off the wax paper and, Voila, a clean backdrop and dirty wax paper to toss in the trash!  Simple, clean and neat.

God's Best and Happy Rails to You!

 Bing,

The RIPRR (The Route of the Buzzards)

The future: Dead Rail Society

Reply 0
rickwade

Thanks, Bing!

I really like the wax paper idea for protecting my backdrop.  Thank you for the idea.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
kcsphil1

picking a nit

Rich, if you add an extraction industry there, it better be an Aluminum smelter, not a tin smelter.  Otherwise the crew will not make much money owing to the mineral composition of the hill. 

Philip H. Chief Everything Officer Baton Rouge Southern Railroad, Mount Rainier Div.

"You can't just "Field of Dreams" it... not matter how James Earl Jones your voice is..." ~ my wife

My Blog Index

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rickwade

Phil H - I'm showing my age....

My parents used to call aluminum foil "tin foil" and the refrigerator the "ice box" and I guess it kind of stuck! - plus "tin" is much easier to say than "a l u m i n u m".

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

easier to spell too

The blogs are an immense trove of good ideas, the waxed paper idea is a good one as well. I would suggest using long sheets with the long dimension horizontally oriented and overlapped by additional layers from above like shingles so that no liquid can run under the sheets. Hopefully Blue painters tape or some similar low tack paint will allow it to be held in place and easily removed.

Rob in Texas

Reply 0
RSeiler

Looks like a good idea...

Maybe wrap the aluminum foil around wadded-up newspaper to cut down on how much foil you have to use. 

 

Randy

Randy

Cincinnati West -  B&O/PC  Summer 1975

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17997

Reply 0
wp8thsub

Overheard

"Hey, Loretta - I bet them sneaky gummint types got 'em a top secret mine under there!  The foil will protect 'em from aliens and Russians snoopin', and the natural-type stuff on top will hide the whole durn thing from everybody else."

"Come in off the porch, Buck - you're drunk!"

Rob Spangler MRH Blog

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rickwade

Too funny, Rob!

That sounds exactly like something Buck & Loretta would say!  Well done!

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
arthurhouston

NSA Will Not Be Able To Listen

The foil will block all the signals. GREAT SIMPLE IDEA.

Reply 0
ctxmf74

Buck was wondering how that line got up there on the hill

  Here's the answer.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTvc-bEP35I

  DaveB

Reply 0
Philly_HOer

does the final top material stick?

title says it-- so If you put plaster of Paris, sculptamold, hydrocal over the "tin" foil -- does it stick and hold well -- being tin foil it seems like it's very smooth surface -- or is it that the "crunched"  area holds well and and then holds those covering the smooth areas are held by "default" or should we maybe put some cloth material in with either of the 3 coverings to make sure that it all "binds" together --

Just thinking out loud - but with more crunching and pulling you can get some delicious looking rock formations- with really deep crevassing.

 Nice "Tip & Trick"

Reply 0
rickwade

DaveB - good one!

That answers the question!

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
rickwade

Testing Sculptamold on the aluminum foil hills

As I mentioned earlier I have a 25 pound box of Sculptamold that I've never used and today I tested some using it on my foil hills.  I first made a test hill by using the same procedure of hot gluing crumpled aluminum foil to a piece of 2" extruded foam.  Next I covered the entire foil surface with 2" masking tape.  I used a screwdriver to punch holes all over the taped surface to give a better gripping surface for the Sculptamold.  I then mixed the Sculptamold per the manufacturer's instructions and added brown powdered concrete colorant.  I covered the hills with an approximate 1/4" thick layer of the Sculptamold and waited 15 minutes before smoothing the surface with my wetted fingers. 

Here's picture of the test piece:

lptamold.jpg 

Once this dries completely I'll evaluate the finished product to see if this is the process that I want to use moving forward.

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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rickwade

Foil + Masking Tape + Sculptamold it is!

After seeing how easy it was to color and apply Sculptamold along with how the finished product (dried) looks and performs I am going to use it for the "top coat" to my masking tape covered foil hills.  I'll post more pictures once I start working on the hills on the layout.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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