Building in sections or modules...

You can do it that way but there are pitfalls. I helped a friend build his 2 deck N scale layout. The problem is he built both decks at the same time. Laying N scale code 55 track is tricky enough, but trying t do it on the lower level with about 14" of clearance between the 2 levels was a bit of a problem.   Joe

on the lower level with about 14" of clearance

Yeah, I think one would want to keep the lower level track pretty basic so it could be laid with a minimum of effort. The whole lower deck ,scenery and all probably should be as simple as possible.....DaveB

Another approach

might be to build the distillery sections as units that can be temporarily removed while working below them.  Or build the section units at a lower level and move them up later.    

Sections give you lots of options.  Would also make them easier to move in the event of a relocation.

Dave

What I would do....

is to build it, but make it to where you can remove it for when you get around to working on the lower deck. This way you're not having to squeeze yourself into a tiny space to work when it comes time to build the lower section.

I did sections

use standard sizing?

Maybe you should build it using standard size like 2ftx8ft (1/2 plywood sheet or 2in rigid foam) or 2ftx6ft8 (hollow core size).

Good info

By all means build now

Go for it

Modules or sections definitely sound like the way to go in your situation.  The only major pitfall is the extra engineering you'll have to do to keep it sectional.

-Fuzzy
DM Rail Group
http://www.fuzzyworld3.com/modelrr.html
 

the extra engineering you'll have to do to keep it sectional.

  I don't think it would be too hard to make a 23 by 2 foot layout element sectional?  Three parts 7.67 feet long or four parts 5.75 long would do it. They could just be 1X4 boxgrid frames with plywood tops for an industrial site. Maybe hang them on metal shelf brackets for now and get started laying track and outlining buildings? .DaveB

Build a Jig First

so you can drill all the mounting holes and standardize the location of your wiring.  It will make your sections fit together easily and they could be interchangeable during construction.

Also consider starting a three ring binder for your track plan, benchwork measurements, wiring diagrams and your "future projects".

Similar Problem

Due to life interfering, I lost my layout a couple years ago and presently don't have the space to build a complete layout at this time. That being said, the urge to build something took over. I have a general plan in mind but without a fixed space to work with I decided to take the concept of "Layout Design Elements" to the next stage and just build one piece of the layout. Since I can work the rest of the layout into it however and whenever I get the chance and I don't plan on using it as a part of a club module I built it 24"x45" . The next piece that joins up to this one will be 24"x30", just big enough to provide the space I need for now.  I can always put a couple temporary turnback loops on the ends so that I can run some trains and do some switching.

Pain in the butt sometimes but at least i get to do something.

Im in the same boat

My current living arrangements are temporary. Im living in an apartment at the moment with a 10x12 spare bedroom. At least this gives me the chance build a section of my HO scale layout and I can move it later.

Build in sections

The Two foot width is an excellent width and it lends itself to easy of construction as well. If you build it in one 23 foot length it will be scrap when you are finished as you will never get it anywhere. In addition to the length you will need to get it out of the house you are in you will also need to get it into your next house or apartment. If you keep the sections to about 2 by 4 feet you will be able to get them into any place you will live.

Another advantage is they will be lighter and easier to move with out damaging them. You may also find that you have to assemble your sections a bit differently in the future and smaller sections will make this easier to add a curve to go around a corner etc. Since you are planning on building a lower level later you may want to move these sections during construction of your other levels.

A 2 by 4 foot section is also likely to fit on your workbench and make building it and working on it later much easier.

Rob in Texas

Assess the load-in/load-out-path, then build to suit...

Dear MRHers,

2x4 was my "go to" module/section size a way back. However, with my last layout project using 1x4s (and one of those being a 4 1/2' radii curved module), articulating them single-handed around/thru a (Read this carefully):

- RH 90 deg turn room> hallway (with obstacles)
- thru a single-person 30" doorway (front door)
- into a LH 90 deg turn doorway> external landing (with obstacles)
- down 30+ single-person-width stairwell
- and into the back of the Subie

was still a significant challenge,
and strongly suggested that I need some time on the treadmill before the next exhibition/model-RR show...
(not a "out of breath" issue, but definitely a "can't fit a human + a human-width module thru a single-human doorway simultaneously" issue)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS if you do have single-person doorways and/or 90-deg "on the spot" turns to handle, and insist on running 4x2 (x2 if "proscenium style" with integrated lighting/roof), then building the module so it can be unceremoniously tipped "on end" to present a 2x2 footprint for rotation-moves can be a massive advantage...

24"x48"x2-5/8" Light Weight

I just finished this design.  The parts will be cut by a cabinet maker with a big CNC router.  I have two different designs.  One made from 1/4" thick Russian Baltic Birch and one made from 1/2" cabinet grade birch.  The 1/4" table (without the legs) weighs less than 10 pounds.  The 1/2" table is strong enough to do step aerobics.

Getting more exercise into Model RRing?

Dear Cely,

A serious question or 2:

1 - How much do the trains you're looking to run on this system actually weigh?
(allied q, what scale/gage are we talking about?)

2 - Are you honestly going to benchpress your own bodyweight on your benchwork?

I guess I can see it for extreme-range multi-deck layouts, or layouts with wide expanses of surface area that put common "24 or 30" reach-in, how long is my arm?" layout-design debates in the shade. However, even with those caveats in play, I've yet to see a situation where "I have to walk on the layout now" wasn't directly related to "something's gone seriously wrong"...

The design looks good, and solid, but I can't help but wonder if it isn't a little overkill?
As a comparison, a 2x4x2 full proscenium module in foamcore, inc lighting rig installed and working, also weighs < 5 kilos, or < 10 pound. Said module can support a 2 kilo brass CLW O 2R GP35 without fear, and will handle a 4 kilo Sunset brass O 2R Challenger if required, with nothing more than an additional "T girder" strip of foamcore hotglued vertically along the centerline of the roadbed...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS if the tare weight for the 1/4" table is sub 10-pound,
and the 1/2" can handle step-aerobics...
it begs the question, what's the tare weight of the 1/2" module?

the tare weight for the 1/4" table is sub 10-pound

Unless one has zero friends I don't see any reason to worry about cutting weight below what 2 people can easily carry? The trade off a a few more pounds for cheaper sturdier benchwork seems like a good deal to me. I never know when I might want to pound on it with a big hammer so it's nice to know I can:> ) of course we grew up here in Cali lugging 10 foot  surfboards into our houses so a 5 foot module  don't seem like much of a challenge.....DaveB

Dear Dave, You know better than that...

Dear Dave,

You know better than that...

1- See my earlier comments RE the layout egress pathway out the "train-room", thru front door, and into the vehicle at my current abode.

2- Consider that if a module on a diagonal is taking up 2/3rds of a standard single-person 30" doorway, there is barely room for one body, let alone two.

3- Reference the current thread RE "supportive spouses". My wife is more supportive of my hobby than I could ever hope for, but I don't push-it by building layouts that are "minimum 2 people to move"

3a- Very few modellers are getting younger, and exhibiting at shows is not a sprint, it's a marathon. I can cite a number of examples where significant bodily injury has been sustained due to over-engineered, over-size, and over-weight layout sections and the associated transport/setup/teardown exertions required.

4- Given many shows outside the US are far shorter than the "week-long-festival of trains", a smaller layout capable of being moved/setup/run/torn-down by a single person is often a smart way to approach the design.
(take TVNAM in the UK, one of the leading US-outline shows going round. http://www.tvnam.co.uk/ Every pound of "benchwork flab" is still weight that needs to be hauled and handled, whether the show is 7 days or 7 hours long...)

5- If the module was constructed accurately and appropriately, one wouldn't need to use a "brute force tool" (aka hammer) to achieve the desired fit.

5a- I wrap the foamcore modules in Qubelok exoskeleton, which requires some hammer-work,
I'm yet to have a foamcore module "fall apart" under such processes
(15+ years of active testing and counting)

There are plenty of very valid reasons why single-person-mobile "hyper-light" benchwork is an appropriate option in many circumstances, 
and said designs don't have to trade-off adequate-for-task stength/rigidity
(I've had a 20' long 6-section Qubelok + Foam layout survive a 70knot wind 70kph trailer rollover),

or inherrently relate to the occasionally-referenced social ineptitude of model RRers...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS my last show layout, a 14' On30 unit in 3 sections,
(2x proscenium modules with full integrated lighting rig, + an all-qubleok 3' train turntable staging module), weighed in at just over 20 kilos in total, not including the leg system. That's around the same weight as a large bag of dry dogfood...

2x4 Questions

DaveB,

On your quest, I just thought you might want to see a light weight solution. 

Prof Klyz

I am without space, woodworking tools and woodworking skills.

I wanted to build a portable, light weight, table height, moderate sized, modular layout.  The modules had to connect together easily and precisely, without leveling and clamps.  My table made from 1/4" plywood, is sufficiently strong in the X, Y and Z directions and twists a little along the long, central axis.  The twist allows the tables to follow the contour of the floor. I'll be using hot glue and other adhesives with a little give.  The holes around the outside allow me to bolt the tables to a wall for permanent installations and to hang curtains, when I'm on the road.  My first design only had 1 cross member.  I had extra wood, so the I put in the second cross member.  Your are correct, it is overkill.

Light weight is important because I will be the only one setting up and taking down.

The table made from 1/2" cabinet grade plywood, is much stronger, and more suitable for hammering and coffee table layouts.  I get 3 tables from one 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood.  I only get 2 tables from each 5'x5' sheet of 1/4" Russian Baltic Birch.  The table made from 1/2" plywood is actually less expensive.

And finally, I like wrapped foam core a lot.  I just decided, it would be easier for me, to use a cabinet maker to cut and assemble everything.

Chaz

Waffle Frame Modules/(sectional)

The sipping and switching society of NC (regional HO scale modular organization) has developed an outstanding design for their light weight and strong modules. This process can easily be used to build sectional pieces for your home layout.  Visit the following web site to see how they are made: http://s-ss3.home.mindspring.com/id1.html

r/

Art

`Modular Layout

I started my current layout over twenty years ago in an apartment.  Each time I moved I took the sections apart and reassembled them, sometimes adding new sections to fit the new space. My modular sections use 1/2" plywood tops and 1 x 4 frames (cut from 3/4"plywood; or you can use boards, but I like the plywood).  I had the lumber yard cut the plywood for me, but assembled the modules in my apartment with drywall screws and yellow glue. Tools were a 12v cordless drill and a saber saw.  Some of the first modular sections that I made have been incorporated into the current layout, which is now located in a basement.

This is the apartment layout which was set up in the basement right after I  moved here nine years ago.

Photos of the current layout.

I am in the process of moving

I am in the process of moving so all my rolling stock is packed up, but this is not stopping me! I have made a few modular units that I can focus larger amounts of attention on smaller sections, not making it a long haul each time I want to do a particular thing which will them bore me after a few hour of making trees for example. It may be a little un productive in terms of completing the bigger picture but I feel it makes me give each section individualised attention and uniqueness which is often dependent on my mood of the day, I do not want a bland repetitive scene throughout my layout but each distinctive area to be shown as it is in the prototype.

sections

When we built the addition to our house in 2000 I built my new south staging yard in sections. The advantages were:

I could build it while the addition was being built

I could lay it on it's side for east wiring.

Now I am changing the layout from freelance to modeling a prototype and I need to reverse the south staging yard. This is easy to do with sections. Ask me again when I am done reversing it if it was easy!