Wow, that's scary.  I'm not

Wow, that's scary.  I'm not even going to walk down the isle where that is located in the hardware store.

Deane

Too funny

In the commercials the guy sticks a hammer to the ceiling

to stop his neighbor from hammering in the night.  It provides instant grip.  I've used it for various home improvement projects, but I can't think of anyplace where I would want to use it on a model railroad!

That's a good heads up on a

That's a good heads up on a product that seems to not lend itself well to our hobby, Thanks for posting

There are different types of PowerGrab..........................

I have built my entire triple deck railroad with the stuff, which includes gluing foam to steel studs, cork roadbed to foam, and track to the cork roadbed (and in yard areas, track directly to the foam).  I only use the "All Purpose" version of the stuff.  There is plenty of work time, and the results are outstanding. 

I source the stuff from Home Depot, but is available all over the place.  Here is a link so you can see the actual container and name:

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1059246-loctite-power-grab-express-all-purpose-sealant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=38&gclid=CjwKCAjwg6b0BRBMEiwANd1_SKDbNcNQ3j6aut_rQF6DUQ7fRK7hrhJ-o0uCHoUqC9NMpwu5CMIapRoC6YAQAvD_BwE

We also tried the Heavy Duty version, and were also not happy with it, mainly due to the quick set-up time.  

When track is laid down, we also weight the track for 24 hours with bricks to make sure it does not move until fully cured.  

I would recommend that you rename your subject as follows:

"DO NOT USE Loctite Power Grab ULTIMATE".

Regards,

Jerry

I know the feeling...

I know the feeling of learning a lesson the hard way.  Hope you're able to get back on track soon!  

-Matt 

DAP

The only stuff I ever use/used to build my layout with is DAP Dyna-Flex 230 clear.

It's not that bad

I use the Loctite Power Grab "Heavy Duty" to glue foamboard to benchwork supports and styrene sheets for backdrops to foam and wood just fine. I'm about all out of a tube that has lasted me at least three years of occasional use that gets sealed up tight with a nice caulk tube plug. 

I've also always used Loctite Power Grab "All Purpose" for lighter duty stuff like gluing steel weights to freight cars and have never had any dire issues.

I would agree using Power Grab for track or roadbed is a bad idea mostly due to being overkill. A thin coat of simple adhesive caulk like DAP clear Kwik Seal Plus is all that's really needed to stick roadbed or track.

Check your local Lowes

If you use it for your DAP source, I noticed during my 3G run this morning ("Get in, Get it, Get OUT!") that DynaFlex 230 Clear 5.5oz was marked "Clearance" in the aisle.  I snagged a couple just in case.

Tim B.

Loctite power grab

That’s not loctites fault . You used it for something it’s not designed for, I have a layout and that wouldn’t have been my first choice. 

"That’s not loctites fault .

Yeah, always best to test new materials on a piece of scrap to see how they work.  I used various brands of construction adhesive on my layout backdrop and fascia installation. I find their superior tackiness/and lack of drips a positive compared to titebond or similar glues when trying to install panels to vertical supports....DaveB 

I don't believe anyone was

I don't believe anyone was blaming Loctite for a poor product....fact is it is a great product for its intended purpose....which is not using it to secure track or roadbed!

I may be wrong, but ...

... I believe the main problem was in selecting the grade of the product - the grade illustrated by the OP is "ULTIMATE". A lesser grade of the same product might not have the same problem.

It always pays to try it first before committing it to the job.

Power grab

I use the power grab in the blue toothpaste tube. I made a small notch trowel out of a piece of 24 tooth hack saw blade and a small square of 1/2" plywood. (Glued it on with power grab) This provides a thin, consistent layer of adhesive, and provides good control so I can do one side of the track centerline. I then place half the cork. I roll the cork with a wallpaper seam roller to flatten it. I can scooch the cork as necessary and re roll those areas.  Then more adhesive and the other side of the cork.

Spread adhesive on the cork and place the track. Scooch as required. Don't glue turnouts. Roll everything down. Scooch again. no weights are required. I can do all the cork and track for 2 ntrak modules in 3 or 4 hours. with time out for grabassing. Then i let it set overnight and start feeders the next day.

Power grab

Oh, and it washes off tools and hands with water. Pro Tip: What you don't get on your hands, you don't have to wash off.

whats

whats wrong with simple wood glue? i water it down just a touch so it flows into places. drys “clear”. and if it does not rub off your fingers, a good hot water soap hand washing and its gone.

will hold everything great. ( train layout that is, and most every wood working project) but will not hold up to a hurricane. but neither would your house.

Been using this stuff to

Been using this stuff to secure track down. its been absolutely trouble free. easy to work with and has plenty of working time yet will set up in a few hrs. Its one of the best things I have used for track laying

Types of Loctite Power Grab

The Loctite web site shows 7 products on the 'construction adhesives' page, which I got when I tried to search for all 'power grab' products. I thought I'd post a little product-finder so people can identify by number which version they're using. Apart from #1 and #2, the rest all seem to me to be the same stuff, just in different amounts.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/construction-adhesives.html

In order left-to-right top-to-bottom the products on that page are:

1. Power Grab Ultimate in a black, silver and red caulk gun tube (what Op recommended against):

2. Power Grab Express Heavy Duty in a blue & red caulk gun tube, below:

3. Power Grab Express All Purpose in a mostly-blue with a little red caulk gun tube, below:

4. All Purpose Express pressure pack 

5. Power Express in a six-ounce toothpaste tube (seems to match what   Michael Duckett recommended):

6. Power Grab express in a 3-ounce tube (less of the same):

7. Power  Grab Express in a 1-gallon bucket (for your G-scale empire, lol)

What's it used for?

Any adhesive should be researched before using. As for roadbed and track. I use DAP Alex caulk. Works perfectly. Just spread a thin layer, place roadbed down, spread another thin layer and place track down. Weight down with cans, leave 24 hrs to cure. And done. The best part is if you need to pry it back up. Easy as can be. And for track, I would never use any adhesive like Loctite or Liquid Nails, or such. Of course, if you need it rock solid and permanent, then use an appropriate adhesive. But this thread's title is wrong. You can and do use Loctite Power Grab. Just not for fastening roadbed or track.

thread title

The thread title isn't completely wrong, but I'd suggest adding the world 'ultimate' to it for clarity.

Using the right loctite product has worked for some people, it's not completely wrong to use it for track laying.

glue

i guess i am very old fashion. i use water-down (to thin it out more)  elmers white glue.

works great, very easy clean up. just apply to the cork. place track, plenty of time to adjust. add weight . go have a beer or three. O and cost for it is low .

I just use rail spikes.

I just use old Atlas(?) rail spikes that go in the holes in ready-to-run flex track.  Can't remember what I used for hand laying track on me and my dads On30 module, though.

Another white glue fan

Lance Mindheim suggests simple white glue used sparingly as more-than-enough holding power for HO scale track. I agree, and likewise it is easier to undo the hold with some water and isopropyl alcohol to soften the glue enough for removal. Track ain't cheap, and you may want to reuse it on a later layout or section. I also use a few HO scale spikes in strategic places, and pushpins (T-pins) to hold the track in-place while the glue dries. As packnrat states drying time = beer time.