cr9617
Quote:

MRH: You cannot upload photos to our site and then delete some of them because they will disappear if you do that. Several of the photos in this thread you have deleted, leaving big holes. Can you please upload those missing photos again? Otherwise we will edit this post to remove all references to the missing photos.

I've shared images of this brush cutter in one of the January weekly photo fun posts but I figured I repost it with some construction pics and details.   As I mentioned in the previous post, the model is a Custom Finishing 7013 Pyke Brush Cutter.  Pyke was a Canadian based manufacturer that was bought out by Nordco in 1999 and the Pyke machines were eventually rolled into the Nordco catalog.  With Pyke being Canadian firm, I was able to find pictures of this exact model working for CP and CN but only UP in the US.  I'm pretty sure that Conrail never owned one, as the only images I've seen of a Conrail machine are of Kershaw models and some type of unbranded machines (these being more abundant than the Kershaw).  Luckily for me the time frame is right  and while not 100% accurate I think the model captures the look just right.  With that being said, this Kershaw unit was the main inspiration along with the CP and CN units.  

       

This is what you get when you dump out the package.  Now is a good time to go over the instruction sheet and make sure you understand how the kit goes together as the directions can be tricky at times.  Next I will go through each piece and drill any holes that the instructions call for, clean the flash and rough up and surface that will be glued with a small file.  All the parts must be thoroughly washed to remove any leftover mold release and drilling lubricant before assembly.  

 

Here's a shot of the model going together and the instruction sheet.  The highlighted items are the different size holes that need to be drilled, it helps me keep track.  You'll need two types of CA adhesive for these kits.  A heavy gel type for large joints and body panels and a liquid for the small brass rods at the pivot points and the hydraulic lines.   

Fast forward to the almost completed model.  The instructions on these kits will have you assemble the entire model then paint it.  I've found this isn't always the best route.  If you notice I've left off the hydraulic tank that goes between the cab and the hood.  This way I can paint all the surfaces.  If I glued it on now, I couldn't paint the tank, hood, and cab sides.  This is where understanding the kit can save you a headache later on.  

Painted and decaled.  The deck and arm weathering was done with Ammo by Mig chipping fluid.  This is basically the same as the hairspray method where you spray a base coat (in this case brown) then the chipping fluid, and then the top color (yellow).  You then wet (water) a brush and/or toothpick to rub off the yellow as desired.  Go easy, it's easy to get carried away, less is more.  The little brown spots will be rust spots.  I find its best to apply them now before the dullcoat as the powders I will use later to blend them will stick better. 

 

The window, radiator and AC unit screens had to be scratch built from styrene and brass screen from Plano models.  They will be painted flat black and weathered with some powders as well.    

   

 

Then the model is ready for final assembly.  Add all the hydraulic lines, paint the cab interior, paint any final details like the orange hydraulic filter and the hydraulic cylinders railings, etc..  Glue on the previously painted the roof details and weather.  The final thing to add is the window glazing which comes with the kit.  Elmer's white glue works best as it dries clear and doesn't affect the plastic.     

 

Here's a little preview of what's on the workbench right now.... 

 
Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Interesting is this model

Interesting is this model powered? Also what year did these devices come into existence. I am modeling a time period in the fall of 1959 and might like to add  a model of this or similar item to my railroad. It does look like it has space for a small drive mechanism if it is not powered.

I also wanted to add it is a great looking model.

Reply 0
grenadier1943

Fantastic

Fantastic work!  Will now have to find one for my MofW department.  Thanks for the tips on assembly.

Mike

Chessie WM

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Read my blog

Reply 0
Roger Litwiller

Excellent work. Thanks for

Excellent work. Thanks for sharing. 

Roger Litwiller -Author

View my layout, "Trenton Subdivision in N Scale" on the Railroading Page on my website.  rogerlitwiller.com

READ my MRH Blog.

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

@cr7617

Hello!  You’ve done some fantastic modeling!  I’m sure a lot of us envy your skill and attention to detail.

I only have one question......   have you approached the “maintenance” people about the lack of windshield wipers on their van?  The New York State Police would have a field day with that indiscretion.....

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing it with us!

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
cr9617

It's not powered.  The small

It's not powered.  The small hood area is almost solid so I guess you could hollow it out but there isn't much space.  I don't know when this particular model came out, but 1959 would definitely be too early.

Reply 0
Craig Townsend

Yellow paint?

What did you do to get a nice yellow paint coverage? I'm building a similar piece of MOW equipment in 1/29 and am having trouble getting my yellow to look right. I ended up spraying a light coat of pink over gray primer.
Reply 0
cr9617

@craig

Thats tru-color paint TCP-069 reefer yellow.  I also use Gravity Colors GC-133 School Bus Yellow, its a little less orange and is good for a slightly faded color.  

Reply 0
iandrewmartin

Not sure if detail photos would be of interest to you, but

I found what I believe is a Pyke Brush Cutter on the UP's Bergstrom Lead back in the early 2000s. Being from Australia and never having seen one of these before I took a set of detail photos just in case I never saw another one.

Click the link to visit the page and the gallery for this MoW item on my blog and website.

Enjoy!

 

Andrew Martin
Designing & Building Small Operating Layouts since 2003
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Andrew's Trains for hundreds of layout ideas and designs
Andrew's Trains' page on Facebook

Reply 0
cr9617

nice find andrew

looks like a smaller version of the one i modeled.

Reply 0
SlidingIntoFirst1986

Beautiful build, got a few questions..

Hello,

 

Such an amazing build! This is truly an inspiration for me. I am going to attempt to build this kit.

Reply 0
Douglas Harding hardingdouglas

Weed Mower

If you want earlier mower, look at the Fairmont M24 weed mower, shown here in 1927 in a factory photo, pulled by a gang car.10-18-27.jpg 

Doug Harding
Reply 0
ACR_Forever

A common alternative was

spraying weed/vegetation killers, at least into the 60's.  I model 1980, so the Pyke equipment is of interest.  If I was modelling 1950-60, I might think about a speeder or highrail with a spraying rig on a trailer as an alternative.

Reply 0
Bigelov

Great work

cr9617,

What you are doing with all your maintenance equipment is fantastic. All your posts where I have seen your work I always take a closer look. I love all of this technical stuff!

Just one question about the wheels on these models, are they isolated so that they can sit on powered track?

Keep up the great work.

Steve B

TTe - Russia in narrow gauge Bigelov's blog and Flickr albums

Reply 0
cr9617

@bigelov

Thank you, I appreciate that.  Yes the wheels are insulated.  These small plastic bushings get glued in the wheels and drilled out for the axles.  

   

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