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MRH: You cannot upload photos to our site and then delete some of them because they will disappear if you do that. Several of the photos in this thread you have deleted, leaving big holes. Can you please upload those missing photos again? Otherwise we will edit this post to remove all references to the missing photos.
I've shared images of this brush cutter in one of the January weekly photo fun posts but I figured I repost it with some construction pics and details. As I mentioned in the previous post, the model is a Custom Finishing 7013 Pyke Brush Cutter. Pyke was a Canadian based manufacturer that was bought out by Nordco in 1999 and the Pyke machines were eventually rolled into the Nordco catalog. With Pyke being Canadian firm, I was able to find pictures of this exact model working for CP and CN but only UP in the US. I'm pretty sure that Conrail never owned one, as the only images I've seen of a Conrail machine are of Kershaw models and some type of unbranded machines (these being more abundant than the Kershaw). Luckily for me the time frame is right and while not 100% accurate I think the model captures the look just right. With that being said, this Kershaw unit was the main inspiration along with the CP and CN units.
This is what you get when you dump out the package. Now is a good time to go over the instruction sheet and make sure you understand how the kit goes together as the directions can be tricky at times. Next I will go through each piece and drill any holes that the instructions call for, clean the flash and rough up and surface that will be glued with a small file. All the parts must be thoroughly washed to remove any leftover mold release and drilling lubricant before assembly.
Here's a shot of the model going together and the instruction sheet. The highlighted items are the different size holes that need to be drilled, it helps me keep track. You'll need two types of CA adhesive for these kits. A heavy gel type for large joints and body panels and a liquid for the small brass rods at the pivot points and the hydraulic lines.
Fast forward to the almost completed model. The instructions on these kits will have you assemble the entire model then paint it. I've found this isn't always the best route. If you notice I've left off the hydraulic tank that goes between the cab and the hood. This way I can paint all the surfaces. If I glued it on now, I couldn't paint the tank, hood, and cab sides. This is where understanding the kit can save you a headache later on.
Painted and decaled. The deck and arm weathering was done with Ammo by Mig chipping fluid. This is basically the same as the hairspray method where you spray a base coat (in this case brown) then the chipping fluid, and then the top color (yellow). You then wet (water) a brush and/or toothpick to rub off the yellow as desired. Go easy, it's easy to get carried away, less is more. The little brown spots will be rust spots. I find its best to apply them now before the dullcoat as the powders I will use later to blend them will stick better.
The window, radiator and AC unit screens had to be scratch built from styrene and brass screen from Plano models. They will be painted flat black and weathered with some powders as well.
Then the model is ready for final assembly. Add all the hydraulic lines, paint the cab interior, paint any final details like the orange hydraulic filter and the hydraulic cylinders railings, etc.. Glue on the previously painted the roof details and weather. The final thing to add is the window glazing which comes with the kit. Elmer's white glue works best as it dries clear and doesn't affect the plastic.
Here's a little preview of what's on the workbench right now....