Patrick 1

I'm going to be laying some pink foam insulation on top of my benchwork and was wondering what's the best way to cut it so I get nice smooth lines?  Also does anyone know by chance if Home Depot would cut it. I'm pretty sure they'll cut wood for you but the foam may be another thing. 

Thanka 

Reply 0
David Husman dave1905

Cutting foam

You can cut it with a circular saw but will have pink dust everywhere that is statically charged and will stick to everything.  

You can cut it with a jigsaw but I have found it gives a rougher edge.

You can cut it with a band saw but that only works for narrow pieces.  It still results in dust but it spreads less.

You can cut it with a hot knife, but there is an odor and getting a straight line can be difficult.

You can cut it with a steak or bread knife, that has the least dust, but can give a rough edge.

Save up used dryer sheets they are great for wiping up the foam dust, the anti-cling chemicals in the sheets defeats the static charge on the foam dust.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

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Reply 0
Pelsea

Cutting foam

Just about any tool short of a paintbrush will cut pink foam, but I generally use one of these:

Saw. Don't bother with a scroll saw unless you need a complex cut. (If you do, get some foam cutting blades, that are more like knives.) Handsaws are fine and less messy. I like the Japanese style that cuts on the pull.

Knife. For detail work or thinner slabs, practically any sharp knife will do from a steak knife to a long Xacto. Knives with a serrated blade are popular. To make very clean edges, use a metal guide and repeated shallow cuts. My best guide is a piece of aluminum angle that helps me keep the cut square.

Hot wire cutter. Various frames hold the wire tight and run electric current through  it. You can get a very smooth cut after a bit of practice, although the slightest tremor will make a ripple in the cut. Cuts are limited to what will fit inside the frame.

The best tool for shaping foam is a Stanley surform, which looks like a long handled cheese grater.

pqe

Surform.jpg 

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

Be careful with what you use heat on.

Rumor has it that the pink and blue closed pore styrofoam insulation should not be heated because it releases toxic fumes.  (Don't have the chemical reason for the problem handy.)

White open pore beaded foam is generally the accepted "safe material" for use with hot knives, hot wires and other heated foam sculpting equipment.

Nick

P.S. Stanley also had a surform that was about 6" long and one that was a cylinder that you could put into a pistol drill (chuck) and grind away.  I was thinking that the one Pelsea mentioned was about 12" long.  (Nope, Pelsea found a fourth style!)  They are all handy.  I'm apt to chase the surforms with a block or dowel of wood with 20 or 40 grit sandpaper attached depending on the finish I desire.

P.P.S.  My dad worked at Stanley Tools, Eagle Square Division, Shaftesbury, Vermont as a tool and die maker.  He and I benefited from a lot of "seconds".

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
joef

Official manufacturers safety sheet

There seems to be a lot of urban legends about hot cutting foam. Here's the skinny from official safety sheets.

DOW (blue foam):
Based on combustion toxicity testing, the products of combustion from this foam are not more
acutely toxic than the products of combustion from common building materials such as wood.

Fumes or vapor released during thermal operations such as hot-wire cutting of STYROFOAM
Brand products may cause eye and respiratory irritation.

Dust or solid particles of STYROFOAM Brand insulation products may cause eye irritation or corneal
injury due to mechanical action, as with any other solid particulate that may contact the eye.
The dust may also cause irritation to the upper respiratory tract.

Owens Corning (pink foam):
Avoid dust formation.
Do not breathe dust. Wear personal protective equipment.

Dust collection system must be used in cutting or machining or other dust generating processes, such as using power tools.
Vacuum or wet clean-up methods should be used.
Grinding, cutting, sawing or fabrication activities that cut large numbers of interior foam cells can
release localized amounts of flammable residual blowing agent or release dust particles that under
certain conditions may ignite or form explosive dust atmospheres.

Dusts may cause mechanical irritation to eyes and skin. Ingestion may cause transient irritation of
throat, stomach and gastrointestinal tract. Inhalation may cause coughing, nose and throat irritation,
and sneezing. High exposures may cause difficulty breathing, congestion, and chest tightness.

Primary combustion products are carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and styrene.

There are no known chronic health effects connected with long-term use or contact with these products.

Release of cyanide gas?
Hydrogen cyanide is a by-product of the combustion of materials found in products used in everyday life (insulation, carpets, clothing, and synthetics). The culprit is nitrogen. Nitrogen gas in atmospheric air can contribute (under the right circumstances) to the formation of minute amounts of cyanide during combustion. High temperatures and low-oxygen concentrations favor the formation of cyanide gas. Smoke from the combustion of grass clippings, green wood, tobacco, cotton, paper, wool, silk, weeds, and animal carcasses will likely contain some hydrogen cyanide gas. Also watch out for the combustion of man-made plastic and resins containing nitrogen, especially if the fire is hot and in an enclosed space.

Cyanide exposure is an expected outcome of smoke inhalation in closed-space fires.

Reference:  http://www.fireengineering.com/articles/2009/06/hydrogen-cyanide-new-concerns-for-firefighting-and-medical-tactics.html


Bottom line, to get the really bad stuff (like cyanide gas) you need an open flame fire in an enclosed space. Melting the foam won't release hydrogen cyanide gas - you need an open flame and black smoke for that. But notice, burning common household trash can also release cyanide gas. Generally speaking, anything that has nitrogen in it and burns hot enough to release a lot of smoke and look out.

Otherwise, melting the foam can release carbon monoxide, but probably in no larger doses that you'll get standing next to a busy freeway ...

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Table Saw

Another tool you can use to get a nice clean straight cut is a table saw. Obviously, there isn't much resistance when pushing a piece of foam through your table saw, but it can still create a significant kickback if you are not carefull! 

For 1" thick foam (pink or blue) I use a utility knife with a straight edge, multiple passes, then "snap" the it off if necessary.  A new (or very slightly used) blade is essential - old blades will tend to tear the foam.

Al Carter

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Bill Brillinger

Utility Knife

Blue and Pink foam kut very nicely with a regular retractable utility knife.

Take your time and make multiple passes as needed.

Bill Brillinger

Modeling the BNML in HO Scale, Admin for the RailPro User Group, and owner of Precision Design Co.

Reply 0
towazy

Hacksaw blades

I use old hacksaw blades,new ones could be used also. The fine tooth of the hacksaw blade seems to result in the least amount of residue and results in a cleaner cut also. 

   Tom

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BR GP30 2300

Knife

What Bill Brillinger just posted is the number item I use for cutting foam.

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BOK

Knife blade in a saber/jig

Knife blade in a saber/jig saw works great although after repeated cuts you'll need to sharpen(file) the blade.

Cuts clean with little debris and no smoke. I have used it to cut material up to 2".

Barry

Reply 0
Warflight

I use a nail.

What? A nail? What?

Okay, so, here's what I do if I need to shape, or even just poke a hole.

I have a pair of vice grips, and a four inch nail. I lock the nail in the vice grips... check, to make sure it's good and locked. Now, I take a blowtorch (I use the kind you get in any smoke shop for ligting cigars, but really, any small craft or kitchen blowtorch will work) and I heat the nail. Sometimes until it's cherry red (but it doesn't have to be that hot)

Then I use that "tool" to carve the foam (in a WELL VENTILATED AREA!)

I get about two minutes of heat out of each blast on the nail... which is plenty of time.

When I'm done, (or if I need to set it down) I have a cup of water that I release the nail into.

Now, is this a good idea for everybody? Probably not... but you asked how I cut my pink foam, and that's how I do it. (it works especially good for making a round hole under a structure to run electrical lines, or carving a smooth slant for a hill side without the extra foam dust)

Now, if what I need is just a hole for planting trees? I have a stripped micro screwdriver (machine head) that I use as a punch, as it's the perfect size for my trees, that they stick into the hole I made firmly.

There is, a great video here at MRH on carving foam for a scene done by Ken Patterson, as well.

 

 

Reply 0
Warflight

Oh, I should mention...

I also have a collection of gas masks, and respirators... if I'm using a nail indoors, I have a fan in the window, and fans all blowing out, and lots of ventalation, AND a gas mask, or resperator on.

LOTS OF VENTILATION!!!!!

Remember... your brain cells are important for coming up with new layout ideas! Damage those, and your layouts will suffer for it!

(what? I'm retired! I worry about my layout now!)

Reply 0
UglyK5

Try this. Why burn it?

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2009/01/29/theres-a-better-way-cutting-rigid-insulation

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
Kirk W kirkifer

Anyone use this hot knife ?

I was at Menard's today and I had one of those rebate checks that I had to use. So, I found this.

For a cheap tool, it seemed more sturdy than the one I made for my soldering gun.

 

 

6_014911.jpg 

I'm just curious if anyone has had any luck with the knife and if you have used a homemade version using a soldering gun? Which one do you prefer?

 

Kirk Wakefield
Avon, Indiana
 

 

Reply 0
DougL

What Bill said - utility knife - it's what the pros use

Exactly what Bill suggested, a simple utility knife for straight cuts. Search the web for "how to cut XPS foam"

  •  For 1" foam, I cut it halfway through, turn it over, and snap it.
  • for 2" foam, I cut it part way through on both sides and snap it.
  • clean cut, no dust.
  • Across the grain the short way sometimes I need to score it almost all the way through
  • the tip must be sharp.  Change blades frequently.

I happen to use the exact knife shown by Bill - I can extend it longer than a normal utility knife, and I can snap off the end to expose a new sharp tip. The tip must be sharp or it drags and crushes the foam, rough finish.  I got a bunch of refills. Very important - for an extendable knife, make certain, really certain, the blade locks in place securely.  Spend more if you must.

Curves - If I must cut curves, I use the same knife and make many light cuts until it is mostly through.  

Sculpting - I use the same knife, and patience, for carving.  Now I sometimes use a hot wire foam cutter for rough sculpting.  I discovered a 1/2 hour of cutting and the fumes irritate my throat, so I wear a mask with a hot cutter. And a window fan, because family and pets are also in the house.

--  Doug -- Modeling the Norwottuck Railroad, returning trails to rails.

Reply 0
gogebic

Fish filet knife

I use a fish filet knife for rough shaping and #40 grit sandpaper.

Reply 0
Pennsy_Nut

My only comment

The local Home Depot/pink foam nor the local Lowes/blue foam, would cut for me. I had to buy the 2"x4'x'x8'  sheets and have someone cut them for me. He used a regular box cutter and was careful with a steel ruler and cut them lengthwise into 12" x 8' boards for me. The edges were smooth enough. I recommend painting them. I feel that the paint made it easier to work on the surface. The raw pink foam don't like certain glues. But with the paint, the glues had less affect on the foam. That's all. Hope this helps.

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG IIv4, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Reply 0
GT Mills

On Amazon $14.99 free S&H with Prime

I made a hotwire cutter, and after reading this thread with the idea about a hot knife I found this tool today on Amazon.  I'll buy 'n try and get back to ya'll with the results.  Looks like fun.  But then the one at Harbor Freight,

likely the same as the one above, is 130w, costs 19.99, where this one below is only 14w.  I like that video with the sharpened putty knife for long, straight cuts, I'll try that too.  I can wait until I have a Harbor Freight discount coupon and pick one up for 25% off, same price as the needle knife.  But then this needle knife would also be good for an entirely different style of cuts all its own...

 

%20Knife.jpg 

MRH Note: http://amzn.com/B07FKCR47W?tag=mrhmag-20   ... ~$15 prime

Greg

Grew up next to the Flint & Pere Marquette RR tracks originally laid 1871 through Northville, Michigan

 

 

Reply 0
barr_ceo

Cutting foam

I often used the aforementioned hacksaw blade... but I bought them cheaply in bulk at Harbor Freight, and bulk up one end in duct tape for a handle.

It's a lot easier on your hands.

If you want parallel cuts,tape two  blades to the sides of a 1 x 4 or some such

 

Reply 0
Allen H.

Jig saw blade...

....for foam or soft material.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T313AW3-3-Piece-Special-Materials/dp/B001J0U1HC/ref=asc_df_B001J0U1HC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12689714761717815674&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024741&hvtargid=pla-684131743392&psc=1

Reply 0
Airedale13

fumes from cutting with hot knife

Are there any fume issues cutting pink foam with hot knives in-doors? 

 

thanx

 

dean

Reply 0
PennCentral99

Putty Knife

Like some people who posted previously, if I'm cutting into pieces, I make several passes with a utility knife. If I'm shaping or carving for scenery. I'll use a rasp, small steak knife or other manageable tools.
 
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Terry

0021i(1).jpg

Sin City Terry          Inspired by Addiction          My YouTube Channel

Reply 0
RSeiler

Jigsaw blades...

They make foam cutting jigsaw blades. I have a couple, but I always grab a retractable utility knife because there is always one laying nearby and it does the job just fine. If I had to make some long precise wacky-shaped cut, I might dig out the jigsaw.  

Randy

Randy

Cincinnati West -  B&O/PC  Summer 1975

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17997

Reply 0
Will_Annand

No fancy tools here

I use pink foam as my base and cutting it is easy.

If I just want a nice straight cut, I use a standard box cutting knife.

If I want a fast cut over a long section, I use my 50 year old Black and Decker Jig Saw.

If I have a small area to cut I use one of two kitchen knives that I bought at the local dollar store.

And lastly if I just want to contour the foam a bit, I use a rasp planer.

%20Tools.jpg 

Reply 0
joef

Jig saw or rasp on foam

The problem with a jig saw or rasp for cutting foam is the complete mess they make.

The sharpened putty knife and a hot cutter are extremely clean cutting, leaving virtually no mess. To me that's a huge plus. 

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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