Craig Thomasson BNML2

This blog post will chronicle my adventures with using foamcore for mock-ups and the backdrop.

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Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

Mock-ups are great!

I like mock-ups.  They are an inexpensive way to test the fit and feel for planned structures.  They also help give the layout some purpose early on, so you aren't simply spotting a car at an empty space.  My first mock-ups were crudely hacked from scrap pieces of foamcore board using dull blades.  I made guesstimations when deciding how tall to make them.  After operating the layout for a while, I had determined what adjustments I needed to make.

I also used foamcore sheets for the backdrop, but wasn't terribly happy with the results.  The joints were too obvious, and the notches for clearing the upper shelf brackets weren't clean.  If only there was some way to easily create an overlapping joint...

While websurfing, I came across the line of tools from Foamwerks.  One of the tools is a rabbet joint cutter.  Aha!

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It's amazing how the right tool makes a job easier.  With these tools, I can make nice crisp edges and corners.  It's also amazing how well a sharp blade will cut foamcore.

Here are the pieces cut to replace the lumber distributor building.

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Here you can see the rabbet cuts on the roof and side pieces.  For now, I'm simply taping the pieces together.  The rabbet joints result in a surprisingly sturdy structure, even when just using tape.

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Here we see the new mock-up in place.  After operating for a while, I discovered that I needed to extend the spur in the foreground to better fit the gate at the other end.  After looking closer at the prototype, I realized I could locate the right loading door closer to the end wall, which let me shorten it enough to accomodate the siding.  The original mock-up was also too short, being only about 20 scale feet tall.  The typical height is closer to 30 feet.

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The warehouse building really shows off the nice crisp corners created by the rabbet joint.  Like the lumber building, the original warehouse mock-up was only about 20 feet tall.  The new mock-up is 30 feet tall.  I also adjusted the door spacing to accomodate 60 foot cars.  They are small post-it notes so they can be resized or relocated easily.

The plastic products manufacturer had the most significant changes.  The original mock-up was shifted more to the right with semi-trailer loading docks on the left.  That meant boxcars had to be spotted in the middle position between plastics cars for loading.

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The new mock-up is located all the way to the left, eliminating the semi-trailer loading dock.  That puts boxcars in the left spot for loading.  Since this building would probably have been originally built as a multi-tenant warehouse, I added 3 doors.  However, the current customer only uses the leftmost door.

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I also made some changes to the street.  The original plan had a 24 foot wide street, but that seemed way too narrow.  Google Maps has a measurement tool that is accessible from the right-click menu, and sure enough, almost every street found in an industrial park is 40 feet wide.  I don't have that much room to work with, and while the narrowest street I could commonly find was 35 feet, I finally managed to find one that was only 30 feet wide.  It also just happens to run beside the prototype for the lumber distributor on the layout!

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With the extra width, I'll also be able to easily hide the joint between the modules.

I'm quite happy with the results so far.  I think I'll be able to use these mock-ups as the base for the final structure if I use the photo image technique.

Craig

 

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

Making an overlapping joint

The old backdrop foamcore boards were joined together using butt joints and reinforcing strips on the back.  However, the factory cutting process causes the edges of the boards to be compressed.  When joined together, there is a valley running along the joint because of this.  I wanted to form an overlapping joint to eliminate the valley and make it stronger.

With a little trick using the rabbet cutter, we can accomplish this.

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The board on the right has a standard rabbet cut.  Most of the material is removed except for a thin edge.  We want the opposite of this on the mating board.  To do that, disassemble the rabbet cutter and remove the vertical blade. The rabbet cutter will now only make the horizontal cut.  Next, make the vertical cut using the vertical/diagonal cutting tool.  Adjust the knife blade so it cuts just deep enough to reach the horizontal cut made previously.  That removes the thin strip on the edge of the board on the left. Finally, attach the pieces using glue or tape.  I used standard Scotch tape (or magic tape) to join them and the joint is quite strong.

Finally, I cut thin strips and attached along the top and bottom edge.  They reinforce the whole assembly and also help to resist bowing comon to the foamcore sheets.

I've done some quick tests and the tape almost disappears when the surface is painted. I think this makes a nice lightweight solution for a quick backdrop.

Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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Virginian and Lake Erie

Clever tools and a great

Clever tools and a great idea. For me I will be building some large steel sturctures out of foam core and adding details to model a large industry. This trick will make it very easy to accomplish. Thanks for sharing.

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Gemma

That's really nice.

I think the idea of mocking up is great, as it gives the feel of the space involved before anything's hard and fast.

And thanks for the construction tips, I have a few sheets of foamboard that need something to do!

 

Gem xx

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TomO

Nice

Thanks for the run down. I found the Foamwerks tools a year or so ago. I resisted because they seemed too expensive but oh are they nice tools! I hate the xacto blade cutting and these tools make such crisp cuts and straight! I like the post it notes  for the door locations. With enough details the foamcore buildings can  become permenent.

Thanks for sharing

TomO

TomO in Wisconsin

It is OK to not be OK

Visit the Wisconsin River Valley and Terminal Railroad in HO scale

on Facebook

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

Tom, look on Amazon for the tools

That's where I got mine.  There seems to be a wide price range for the tools.  For example, right now one vendor has the rabbet cutter for $45 + shipping, and another has it for $11 and free shipping for Prime.

I agree with you, $45 is a little steep for that, but $11 is quite reasonable.  I think I paid $17 for mine at the time and still felt that was a reasonable price.

Rob, take some pictures as you're building your structures. It will be neat to see what others do with foamcore and these tools.  One of these days I want to stop in and visit your club layout on our way to/from Dallas.

Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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Tim Latham

Wow!

Wow I have never seen these before! I also make wargame terrain and these tools will make my life a whole lot easier!

Tim Latham

Mississippi Central R.R. "The Natchez Route"

HO Scale 1905 to 1935

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/timlatham

 

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Kevin Rowbotham

Ditto...

Wow!

Cool Tools!

The V-groove tool is also very interesting...found this page with videos about the various tools.

http://www.walkerworks.ca/products/foamwerks-tools

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

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ChiloquinRuss

Into foam core?

If you're into foam core structures then the kit is the way to go.  These guys have the whole kit for 99 with free shipping.  Russ

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1201219-REG/logan_graphics_w1002_deluxe_foamwerks_kit.html

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/index.shtml  Worlds largest outdoor hobby railroad 1/8th scale 37 miles of track on 2,200 acres
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splitrock323

Neat tools

Great source of tools, mock up structures help in so many ways. They give sense of size, reference and help you define operations. Thank you for sharing this subject. 

Thomas W. Gasior MMR

Modeling northern Minnesota iron ore line in HO.

YouTube: Splitrock323      Facebook: The Splitrock Mining Company layout

Read my Blog

 

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Virginian and Lake Erie

Craig you will be made

Craig you will be made welcome. just let me know when you are going to be in the area.

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Neil Erickson NeilEr

Amazon

Thanks for the link. I found a couple that were reasonably priced and added to my cart allowed free shipping! Looking forward to trying these out. 

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

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r_burke1970

Very good idea. I like the

Very good idea. I like the tools!

Rob

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pldvdk

Glad to See the Foam core...

Your foam core building mock ups look great. Have you thought about using these foam core buildings as the underlying structure for more permanent buildings later on? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on that as a possibility.

I recently needed to make some temporary mine tipples on my layout. At first I tried using cardboard from cereal boxes, but that turned out to be totally inadequate. So I decided to try foam core instead. What a difference that made! In fact I liked it so much I'm going to redo the other temporary buildings in the towns on my layout with foam core as well. As I mentioned, I'm hoping they will prove solid enough to slap on some corrugated siding or brick siding later on for more finished looking permanent models. 

Will be watching for more updates. Keep up the inovative work!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog

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rwproctor

Thickness

Craig,

What thickness foam core are you using?

Rob

Rob Proctor

Western Maryland

Port Covington

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

I'm using 3/16" Foamcore sheets

That appears to be the standard thickness for the typical sheets found at places like Hobby Lobby or Michael's.  The last batch I got were the 20" x 30" size from Hobby Lobby for $2.99 (less with the perpetual "weekly sale" price).

The FoamWerks tools, except for the rabbet tool claim to work on all common foam sizes up to 1/2".  The rabbet tool only works on 3/16" sheets.

@Paul, I have indeed thought about using the foamcore mock-ups as the base for the finished model.  There have been several articles/blogs/postings about doing the photo image laminate.  The nice thing about warehouse buildings is that there isn't much dimension to them, just a flat wall with some doors.  All that is needed to do is cut out the door locations and recess them back a bit.  That and add some small bits for downspouts, electrical conduits, etc.

In the short term, I'm thinking of giving them a quick coat of paint, some typical "warehouse-y" color.  Right now with the shiny white mock-ups and shiny white backdrop, the layout looks like Winnipeg during a January blizzard!

Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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royhoffman

Permanent Foamcore Buildings

I've used foamcore for years now for many of my buildings. The rowhouse and firehouse are foamcore with brick paper applied to it. I've never had a warping problem even though the layout is in a basement.

oamcore1.jpg 

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Roy Hoffman

The S/Sn3 Scale Penn Western Railroad -

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Nelsonb111563

Foam Core as permanent structures

I have several foam core buildings on my layout.  Most are "mock ups" of industrial buildings like my paper mill complex. I usually build the structure and brace everything from the back.  Paint takes very well and I usually get my colors custom mixed at Lowes or Home Depot by purchasing the "color sample" jars.  Several building have been in place for several years now and no warping of the walls.   With added detail, most will blend right in.

Nelson Beaudry,  Principle/CEO

Kennebec, Penobscot and Northern RR Co.

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jwhitten

That is a very slick trick! I

That is a very slick trick! I like the way you're using the foam core for the backdrop too. That's a really nice way of covering up the shelf standards without breaking the bank. I was using masonite sheets before, but I think I like your foam core technique better. 

When the backdrop is up and the buildings and such are in front, is the seam in the backdrop very much visible? Do you notice it much? I'm wondering how much of a pain it would be to try and eliminate the seam. Perhaps some sort of really thin modeling (painting) tape might work...?

 

John

Modeling the South Pennsylvania Railroad ("The Hilltop Route") in its final days of steam. Heavy patronage by the Pennsy and Norfolk & Western. Coal, sand/gravel/minerals, wood, coke, light industry, finished goods, dairy, mail and light passenger service. Interchanges with the PRR, N&W, WM and Montour.
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murray code

good morning Craig, thank you for your article

I have been using foam core for the base material for my diorama/modeling of city scapes.  Your comment of " using the photo image technique " really has stayed with me.  What exactly did you mean by this ?

I have been taking digital photos of potential subjects for many years and some times hand rendering them by projecting the image by a digital projector on to the final base material or creating photo silk screens.

Since I'm not as skilled at free hand drawing, I rely on technology and have had some success .

Hope you could explain this technique further.

Best Regards,

Murray Code

 

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

The backdrop seams should completely disappear

I joined the backdrop pieces using the overlapping joint mentioned in my second post.  Then I fully covered the joint on each side with magic tape (office tape, scotch tape, wrapping paper tape, etc).  They should completely disappear when the backdrop is painted, which I hope to do sometime this week.  The seams you see in the title picture are just the shadows caused by the slight gap in the joints behind the tape.

I also got a couple of custom blended sample jars from Lowe's like Nelson mentioned, one blue for the sky and one white for the underside of the top shelf.  Those little sample jars are quite handy when you only need a small amount.  The biggest decision is which of the 850 shades of blue do I want?

I'll be sure and post the results when i'm done with the backdrop.

The only warping I've experienced so far is the slight bow in the sheets caused by the store stocking them vertically in a bin like posters. However, that goes away as soon as the mock-up is assembled.  The rabbet joints make that part really easy.

@Murray, I'm referring to the photo wallpaper technique.  Lance Mindheim did an article in the Jan 2012 MRH, and also has additional details on his website.  Here are the links:

https://forum.mrhmag.com/magazine-feedback-was-ezines-891776

http://lancemindheim.com/about-us/photo-wallpaper/

I'm sure there are other blogs and discussions on the topic that you can search for in the MRH forums.  These just happen to be the ones that came to mind first.

@Roy, nice job on those buildings!

Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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John Bellucci

Tom, Search eBay for the tools at great prices!

Looks like I'll be ordering these tools!  What a find!  What a tip!
 
FoamWerks Foamboard Rabbet Cutter-
 
Logan FoamWerks Foamboard Straight/Bevel Cutter FREE SHIPPING NIP
Logan WC2001 FoamWerks Foamboard V-Groove Cutter
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Brad Ketchen OSCR

Foamcore backdrops

I used Foamcore, it is cheap and there was a big art shop I could pick up across the road. I had similar issues to you..the visible joints and wall brackets from the upper shelf intruding putting the backdrop at somewhat of a slant... thanks for the post maybe i'll do a rethink a put a floating shelf on top. I've been looking for vinyl solutions and photo wallpaper as well.

Brad

 

Ontario South Central Railway, Toronto, Canada. 

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Craig Thomasson BNML2

Adding some color, and troubles in paradise...

Last night I picked up a few cans of spray paint to add some coloer to the mock-ups.  I found a yellow that closely matches the prototype lumber distributor building, along with almond and light grey which looked like nice "warehouse-y" colors.  As others mentioned, the foamcore took the spray paint quite nicely - no issues with distortion or warping.

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I also went back and re-read Lance Mindheim's article in the January 2012 MRH as well as his various personal blog pages on photo wallpaper.  I spent some time searching the internet for pictures of warehouse doors but couldn't find any. Anything from Google Maps or Earth becomes unusable when zooming in due to distortion from applying the 3D effects.  Lance has a page with some sample images ( http://lancemindheim.com/about-us/photo-wallpaper/), where he happens to have a nice roll-up door.  I used that for quick-n-dirty door images to replace the yellow post-it notes I was using before.

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I also noticed now that I have painted all the white surfaces, all that color "eats up" a lot more of the light from the LED strip.  I'll need to add another strip to bring more light to the scene.

The backdrop is a whole other story...

While the mock-ups took the spray paint quite nicely, the backdrop did not take the roll-on latex paint nearly as well.  I used regular indoor latex paint in one of those small sample jars from Lowe's. The backdrop foamcore appears to have absorbed a lot of the moisture from the paint, and has considerable warping.

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I used scraps of foamcore from the rabbet cuts on the top brackets to retain the top of the backdrop in place.  However, the layout simply rests on its shelf brackets (not secured to them yet), and the strength of the warping foamcore is strong enough that it is actually pushing the layout away from the wall.

It might be partly due to bad design on my part.  I only added thin reinforcing strips along the top and bottom, and those aren't even continuous due to the shelf bracket mounting bars.  There is no reinforcing across the middle of each foamcore panel, and 17" x 30" makes for an excessive area to not be reinforced.

Has anyone else had this problem?  If so, what did you do?  Do you paint both sides of the foamcore to even out the moisture absorption?  Do you only use spray paints?  Do you use the foamcore only as a support and then laminate paper or a photo backdrop on top? Do you do something completely different?

Craig

 

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

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