New structure for the Ashland Ind. Area

Following are more pictures for the new scratch built structure for Ashland Ind. Area on my HO Chicago & North Western RR.

One of my favorite small tools to use for model building "Micro Mark Table Saw" 

I removed the upper lip and the raised locator tabs on all of the wall panels as required, so the back side is smooth and safer to run through the table saw. All the different panels all looked like this before the tabs are removed. 

All tabs removed and panels are cut to the final size which works out to be 1 3/4"w X 1 7/8"h 

Before and after view of panels 

The basic walls and roof cut from .060 styrene sheet material. The openings seen here are cut out oversize to allow clearance for the wall panel inserts with the window sash and glazing assembly to fit into the structure walls. 

The typical columns and beams are added, they are made with .080"t X 3/8"w styrene strip from Evergreen Scale Models PN 6-371 (24" lg.) 

Building is assembled and primed. 

Loading dock not yet added, but it will be all .060 styrene also. 

Loading dock added and all the other parts are primed. Tke solid brick inserts at the lower right side of the picture are Walthers "Brick Sheet" which has the same size brick pattern as their Modular Wall pieces, so I was able to make matching custom size pieces to insert where needed. 

Building is now airbrushed with the final concrete color. I mix Polly Scale Concrete and Aged Concrete 50/50 to get the color I use for all of my concrete work.  

The wall panel inserts are painted with Polly Scale - Light Freight Car Red #F414352 

This is what I use for doing the brick mortar 

Brick mortar added. I simply use my finger to apply the spackle, let it dry for a couple of minutes and the wipe off excess with a damp rag.  

 I made the cornice molding by using Evergreen Scale Models strip stock - The base piece is .030"t X .187"w strip PN 138 and the second piece is their .100" Half Round strip PN 243 

That's it for now more to follow.

Richard

Fantastic

This is great. I'm just getting into scratch building and this looks like something I could do.  I keep glancing at my Delta 10" tablesaw to make cuts, but of course that won't work.  Do you mind posting more pictures of your tablesaw at work...come to think of it, do you make mitre cuts on the brick for the corners?

Thanks

Dan Rom

Ashland Bldg Table Saw

Very nice build and nice photos.  Dan Rom (or anybody) Why can't a 10" table saw work with a fine tooth blade and an insert at the table saw blade?  

Table Saw Usage

Karle & Dan,

I wouldn't recommend a 10" table saw, just strictly due to it's size. I used to be in the custom cabinet business and used a 10" cabinetmakers saw for 33 years, it is just to big. Also the speed is not adjustable and that is important when cutting plastic (styrene). I did try it to cut styrene using a very fine 8" dia. blade (a plywood blade) before I invested in the Micro Mark saw and found that it created a very heavy bead of melted plastic, and also you get a lot of chatter on the material with that large of a machine. Yes it can be removed but is not really a good and SAFE way to go. As much experience as I have on a 10" saw even I don't feel all that comfortable using it for hobby work the pieces are usually just to small. I have used my Hobby saw from Micro Mark mostly for cutting pieces as I showed in these first pictures, but I have also cut large pieces into strips. But I really find it a lot easier to buy ready cut to size styrene strips from Evergreen.

Richard

Table Saw part 2

Sorry Dan

I forgot to answer your question about cutting miters - no I don't and actually haven't tried it. What I do is use what back in Colonial times cabinetmakers used what is called a "Shooting Board". It is really nothing more then a good stable piece of material (I use 3/4" plywood) with a 45 degree miter cut along one edge and a strip (fence) put along the adjoining edge to position your work piece. Put your work piece up against the fence and position the piece you want to miter so it just overhangs the miter cut and either use a fine file or better yet a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood and sand till you get the edged at the 45 degree.

Richard

Excellent, Richard. A really

Excellent, Richard.

A really good build and well explained too.

Mike

Mitre joints

Richard, Thanks for the info on "shooting boards".  Do you have several boards in different widths to accommodate different widths of cuts?

Thank you,

Dan Rom

 "Why can't a 10" table saw

They can work fine but are not ideal for small parts. I wouldn't buy a 10 " saw for modeling work but if I had one I'd use it. With the smallest finest blade that would fit and a custom close fitting insert it should cut thin material quite well, I can shave off paper thin cuts on my old Walker Turner 10 " .....DaveB  

Thanks for the detailed table

Thanks for the detailed table saw answer.  I'm just having a hard time swallowing the cost of the Micromark saw, given I can buy a pretty nice 10" DeWalt for the same cost. But I guess maybe my fingers are worth it! 

Great thread, really looking

Great thread, really looking forward to more installments and posts from the observers, thanks for sharing.

Great!

Outstanding work, so far!  Looking forward to more installments!