Crusty Old Shellback

Ok, I keep going round in circles here and maybe thinking too much about doing my layout rather than actually building. But I want to make sure I'm happy with the end result so I don't mind wasting some paper drawing and checking out new ideas before I start building.

So here's where I'm at. I've been working on a layout design that is basically a donut, 16 feet by 10 feet. I'm doing it in sections that are 4' long by 2' wide. There would also be 2 peninsulas in the middle that are 3 feet wide with a divider down the middle to at some length to the track. I've got two ideas on the set up. One is having the inside isle in the shape of an S. The other has the isle in the shape of a E. 

But then i started thinking too much. What if I made my sections 4 foot by 1 foot wide. then make it in the shape of a W. again 10 feet wide and 16 feet long. The center section would be 2 foot wide again with a divider down the middle. So I would have even more running room except it would be more point to point rather than the loop type of the above.

But my big concern is, even in N scale, is 1 foot enough room to really do a good job of modeling some scenery so it doesn't just look like track running around. I know I'd have to use flats or 2" deep structures up against the back drop so that I'd have room for the track and some scenery.

So am I barking up the wrong tree? Should i stick with my original loop and 2 foot wide modeling area? or would having more running room out weigh the 1 foot wide area? 

The loop would actually be a folded over figure 8. Two loops with part of the loop hidden behind the backdrop. Total running track length is about 100 feet of main line. But only about 50 feet of that would be visible.

The point to point would be about 74 feet of main line, all visible.

 Any help in my delima would be greatly appreicated. Thanks.

 

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
UPWilly

Some suggestions

Crusty - I am at a similar point, although I have decided what I want basically and may change it when I get well into laying it out. I am also in N scale. I will also be using modules similar in size. Here is my suggestion: Look at what M.C. Fujiwara has been able to do in N scale. He has a wide variety of scenes and is using modules between 12" and 24" wide. Here are links to some of his posts that may help you to see how much terrain and scenery can be accomplished in small space in N scale. I suggest you look at all four of the posts (and others, if you want to go further).

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/shoofly-freemon-module-2x6-12189639

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/freemon-staging-yard-16x10-12190172

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/summer-shunting-shelf-project-12188422

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/mt-coffin-columbia-river-n-scale-year-two-12189090

I hope these are helpful to you - they have given me much food for thought.

 

Bill D.

egendpic.jpg 

N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

Reply 0
Greg Amer gregamer

Keep it narrow

I've built a couple of N scale modules. I think I prefer narrow. When building a home layout, I'd go even narrower with a lot of backdrop style buildings. I think just as important as figuring your layout width is figuring the width of the aisle ways, I made the mistake on my first layout of thinking I could live with a 28" aisle. Very tight.

Alaskan Steamship is 16" wide. It could be narrower if I was only modeling one side of the tracks.

O'Brien is 24" wide. It has a lot of open space and I really had to work to get the scenery filled in. In fact, I still need to fill some of the foreground scenery. The main reason I went so large was to use the large warehouse building kits I had.

 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Thanks

Thanks for the inputs. And now I have some reading to do.

As far as Isles go, on the donut, they would be 30" wide isles. On the point to point, they would be 36". Does 6" really make that much of a difference? I'm sure it probably does.

I'll sit around and do up some more drawings using 12" wide modules and see how that comes out. Who knows, I may shorten down the center of the W and make it a full loop by connecting the two outer ends.

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
dkaustin

A suggestion if you are so inclined...

Crusty my friend,

Have you thought about getting a roll of that brown wrapping paper that is 30 to 36 inches wide so that you can approximate you bench work?  What I mean here is to draw out the proposed bench work surfaces on the brown paper.  Cut it out and then lay it on the floor of the space you have designated for this layout.  You can make adjustments by cutting out paper or adding paper.  This will allow you to walk around the layout to get a feel for what you have in mind.  You will find that rounding off corners will give you some more space and eliminate bump/snag areas.

I model in N-scale too.  Using the paper is what I did to determine how much I could get into an 11'x11' room and still have space to walk around the layout.  I happen to have a gut that must be taken into consideration for my aisle widths.  Once I got that figured out I was able to adjust my track plan to fit.

Once you have the paper adjusted to the room then you could draw out your track plan to full scale on the brown paper to see what fits and what doesn't fit. You can see what curves are too tight and which ones could be made larger.  You could draw in the location of your bridges and cuts too.  You can mark out where the towns and yards will go.  Just make it a full scale drawing.

Now you might rip it all up and start again several times until you find the right bench work configuration, but the paper is a whole lot cheaper than wood. When you are satisfied with what you have drawn up you now have a full size template to determine where joints will be.  Now you can build your bench work to the template and save yourself on some wood expense.  You can also get creative with your bench work design.

I hope this helps.

Den

n1910(1).jpg 

     Dennis Austin located in NW Louisiana


 

Reply 0
LKandO

Make It Visual

Quote:

paper is a whole lot cheaper than wood

Den is right on. A 1:1 scale paper print makes it so easy to visualize your space and track arrangement. I used computer and ink jet but brown paper and pencil will work just as well.

100_3747.JPG 

 

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Hadn't thought of that

I haven't thought of using the brown paper to lay it out. What I have been doing though is at least trying to draw it out in scale using some grid paper I have. It gives me something to do while I am on travel sitting in a hotel room. I'm almost thru my second pad of grid paper.

I've basically just drawn out the track centerline and the basic outline of buildings and such. But it's hard to really tell the size by looking at a scale drawing. I have drawn out a section of my yard area to full size just to fighre out my switches and get the right angles and such to see how it would fit. Winds up with a 2" backdrop building, yard tracks and one main line thru track, I can fit it all in a 12" area having 2" from the edge of teh track to the edge of the module.

Alan, what program did you use to draw out your layout to full scale?

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
LKandO

XTrkCAD

Quote:

Alan, what program did you use to draw out your layout to full scale?

XTrkCAD

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Thanks

Thanks, I'll take a lok at it.

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
dkaustin

Excellent photo reference.

Alan, Thanks for posting the photo. Though it is computer generated it the same process I was describing. Thanks for making it easy to visualize! Crusty, the photo is an excellent example of what You and others could do to get an idea of how the bench work surfaces will relate to the space and yourself. One other point here that I think you will agree with you is how easy it is to make a change. Let's just say that photo is your layout space. You might be thinking that the peninsula area is excellent, but that area to the left in the photo just doesn't work for you. Think how easy it is to make a change in this stage of the process! A little more paper and some ink and you can lay your changes right on top. Alan, once you got the bench work and surface built did you lay the paper on top of the bench work? I saw somewhere that somebody did that and started laying the track right on top of the paper plan Den.

n1910(1).jpg 

     Dennis Austin located in NW Louisiana


 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Yep, I agree fully. I got

Yep, I agree fully. I got the program Alan linked and am learning it now. I've got a couple of basic outlines but not sure how I could post them. Alan, any ideas? If so, then I can post the three outlines I have and you guys can beat me up on them.  

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
Ken Biles Greyhart

Isle Width

Quote:

As far as Isles go, on the donut, they would be 30" wide isles. On the point to point, they would be 36". Does 6" really make that much of a difference? I'm sure it probably does.

36" is three feet, almost a meter. That's easy enough to visualize. 30" is the width of a standard doorway in your house. If you are going to be the only one running trains, 30" isles will probably work. If you plan to have others run at the same time, think about both of you going through a doorway at the same time.

 

 Ken Biles

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Reply 0
LKandO

RE:

Quote:

once you got the bench work and surface built did you lay the paper on top of the bench work?

Am not that far along yet but that is the plan.

Quote:

got a couple of basic outlines but not sure how I could post them

In XTrkCAD output your drawing to BMP. Post on MRH like any other picture. Alternately, you could place your XTrkCAD .xtc file in a ZIP file and attach it to a new topic post. .xtc is not one of the allowable file formats for attachment hence the need to put it in a ZIP file. On a windows machine right click on the file, send to compressed folder.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Thanks

Thanks Alan. I'll work on getting some grid lines set up on them so it will be easier to see the distance and then I'll start a new post and put them in there. Seems like the more I think about it, the more I'm leaning to 1' wide bench work. The only part is, I need a little wider than 1' in some areas so that I can put in my turntables and roundhouse.

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

Test

Ok let's see if this works. Got it. Layout is 10' X 16'. Grid is 1' Sq. Circles are my turntables.

  

 

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
LKandO

Youngin's Only

Duckunder to enter? Hard on the back after a while.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

Reply 0
Crusty Old Shellback

It's modular.

I'm making it Modular as it's in my garage and I'll need to take it down at times for other projects. So I can easily install a flip up or remove a module to get in and out.

By the by, I started a new thread that has all three layouts in it. 

My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better.

Reply 0
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