Best source for your SMDs?

Would be interested in whose products you prefer.

Also, I can't see the photos (red X), although that sometimes is just a hit-or-miss thing with my browser and the corporate infrastructure where I work.

Milt

Actual image data placed in the link field

That sometimes happens when folks paste in their pics instead of uploading to the MRH server or linking to images from another web address. In this post the link info (moderator viewable) is the jpeg data string for the image instead of a web address. Your corporate network must not like that arrangement.

I'm interested-

Bill- I'm also interested in your work.  And the source of the SMD's you use.  (And I also can't see the photos, either).  Has it been any problem getting the color tints correct for the white bulbs?  (ie - not too blue, not too yellow?)

Thanks for posting this-

Railflyer SMDs

Since first posting, I found find that Railflyer offers SMDs that are pre-wired.  Also, on other forums, users say that eBay sellers offer them as well.

The Railflyer ones come in "incandescent", white, red and green.

Milt

I uploaded the pictures

Sorry rookie mistake, I had dragged the pictures into my article vs. uploading them to the server. I fixed that, let me know if you are still having problems seeing the pictures.

My source of surface mounted LEDs (SMD) is Railmaster Hobbies.  http://www.railmasterhobbies.com/

They advertise here on MRH, plus they are a local hobby shop. I like to support my LHS.

Jeff does not have them listed on his site, just call him to order some, he has a good supply and he will send them out that day.

I will also be using his 28mm square High Bass Speaker with enclosure in the tender.

http://www.railmasterhobbies.com/Speakers.htm

I will add more to the blog as I get more done.

Bill Beverly

color tints correct for the white bulbs

Kevin;

Your question about "Has it been any problem getting the color tints correct for the white bulbs?"

You can order the "Sunny White" SMDs if you do not want any tint, however you can tint them with Tamiya translucent paints. Others have used a product called "Plaid Gallery Glass Window Color." This is an acrylic based paint for glass.

You just need a tiny drop to tint the SMD.

Bill Beverly

Wiring the running gear

I have been working on wiring the running gear for the Tsunami decoder. The Tsunami will be in the tender and pass 4 wires to the engine. I am using heat shrink tubing as conduit to route and secure the wires.

The Orange and Gray wire go to the motor (wires come in on the right side of the running gear).

The Red wire goes to ground on the frame (wires come in on the left side of the running gear), basically pick up from the right wheels of the running gear.

The White wire goes to the cam on the front wheel set. This will be used to synchronize the chuff.

Since I am using two decoders, the FL4 decoder that is in the boiler will need to pick up power from the tender. A wire is passed down and attach to the draw bar. Heat shrink tubing insulates the draw bar. The second wire from the FL4 will attach to the frame and will pick up from the right wheels of the running gear.

Things are moving along slowly, but I am getting there. Next I will be working on drilling the brass tender to allow me to pass wires out and under the frame.

Bill Beverly

Led Lights

Nice job on those lights Bill. I installed an LED into a Bachmann Headlight recently. I couldnt find any heat shrink so I just painted on several layers of varnish on the led leads. Seemed to work out great.

Rob Teed

installed an LED into a Bachmann Headlight

Hey Rob;

Nice work, but don't stop there! Your engine is large enough to easily fit a cab light, classification lights and don't forget about the firebox light. Lights will turn a ho-hum engine into a something unique. Plus don't forget about an engineer and fireman in the cab, or you will have a run-away!

Bill.

Even more lights

Hi Bill,

Those are all great ideas.The decoder I used only had headlights and rear lights. Next time I will look for a better decoder. I have engineer and fireman and will be installing them.

Rob Teed

More and more lights

Hey Rob;

Yep, that is why I used 2 decoders, one in the boiler to handle the lights and the second in the tender to handle the motor and sound.

The TCS FL4 only costs $20.00 so it was a good choice for me. The FL4 also works well for controlling lights in passenger cars and marker lights in cabooses.

Cheers

Bill.

Decoders

Thanks for the tip Bill. I will look into that.

Rob Teed

Programmable classification boards...

Me personally, this would be the ticket!!

But it really precludes having a good stable workbench!!

Source for SMD LEDs

A good source for SMD LEDs, matching SMD resistors, magnet wire, etc. is Ngineering.com.  Also, he has a series of great tutorials on wiring and so on. Very good, prompt service and good prices to boot.

Scott Groff

I love MRH. Thanks!

thanks, everyone, for sharing great ideas and information.  That's why I just love reading this publication!!!

Thank you so much for this

Thank you so much for this Blog, it has answered 3 questions I have about using LEDs for lighting my markers

I was going to use an internal led and place Fibre optics in the line to the markers, this is so much easier than that .

Credit to where credit is due

A great source of SMD knowledge is Laurie McLean, MMR from Australia.

He has authored a paperback book called "Mastering Model Railroading: Lighting with Surface Mounted LEDs" , published by BHI Publications

http://www.quickpicbooks.com/MMR/Electric/SMLED_1/SMLED_Book.html

In this book Laurie shows you how to use SMDs in caboose marker lights, light a pot bellied stove, configure a brakeman with working lantern. Install a lighting decoder and use LEDs for lighting structures and passenger cars.

This book covers everything you wanted to know about lighting your railroad, but were afraid to ask.

A good read.

Bill Beverly

credit where credit is OVERdue

If you would like to see much more work like this, all original ideas of the modeler presenting it, visit  http://www.youtube.com/user/scoopmmr/videos?sort=da&view=0

154 video uploads and more than 140,000 views.  Laurie does wonders with sound, and animation.  Most  especially, with LEDs and lighting, both in locos, rolling stock and structures.

Look at all his videos, and sort them by date.  You will find that his use of surface mounted LEDs with lighted marker lamps in HOn3 was done more than two years prior to what many now seem to think is really new stuff. 

Enjoy the videos from a MMR that happily shares his original work with the world.

 Laurie has been "lighting the way" for quite some time.

Source of SMDs

Another SMD LED Source

Another source for prewired SMD LEDs is LEDBARON on eBay.  They are located in Germany and may not show up on a search so do a seller search to find them.

Ive heard a lot of good

Ive heard a lot of good things about LEDbaron too but he only sells on the european version of Ebay and not the american. You have to get them directly from them in Germany. I dont know of any source in the US. 

Regarding soldering the wires. I do know that MRH had a video posted of the soldering of the wires on an SMD. Its a good video. I hadnt seen it in a while and couldnt find it though. I used to have it bookmarked.

Videos showing how to solder SMD LEDs by Laurie

These SMD LEDs are not hard to solder, they are tiny and you need the right equipment plus the right magnet wire.

TraintekLLC www.trainteckLLC.com is where I purchase my wire from and they stock the magnet wire plus they sell great 36 gauge decoder wire which is also very useful.

Traintek sell 0603 SMD LEDs - 100 for just $9.95.

The Train Control Systems (TCS) FL-4 decoder is what I use for all my animations as these are robust and very reliable plus very easy to program which I use JMRI Decoder Pro.

Here are some of my YouTube videos showing how the SMD LEDs are used -

SMD LED lighting in HOn3 coach

Soldering 0402 SMD LEDs

Soldering SMD LEDs onto PCB

Making old era oil lamps using SMD LEDs

Soldering to a Nano LED

You need to get a good soldering station and an iron with a fine tip for working with SMD LEDs.

You should also try the SMD resistors as these save space and I place a red and a white in series with a SMD resistor and this works well for firebox flicker under the loco.

Bill, glad to see you giving it a go and thanks for mentioning me regarding the information you used. It is always good to share.

Laurie McLean MMR

Australia

Tender Pickup Wire

Bill,

Just a note about tender pickup.  I installed a couple of DCC modules in the boilers of brass steam engines and thought I would be "smart" and just solder the left rail pickup to the tender drawbar.  Works OK until there is any movement between the engine and tender such as going up a grade, pulling a train, backing up etc.  It doesn't take much to make that connection intermittent.  It won't show up on DC but it sure affects DCC connections.  Eventually, I made a separate detachable connection for the left rail pickup using a 0.1" header connectors, male and female.  This eliminated the intermittent problems completely.  Hope this helps make your installation trouble free.

Tom

Wow!

This is all so amazing!

I may have to do some more lights on my Hogwarts Express. (so far, I have only put in a firebox light that flickers)