Lighting

The sockets could be a problem only because they are 110 volt and the short leads would need to be enclosed in a protective shield and terminated in a junction box with the appropriate strain relief. I know the outdoor sockets used to be used on some building sites wire nutted to the end of a piece of romex but they are an electrocution or arc started fire hazard. If you must use them be sure you follow the electrical code for the installation of this type of socket. With as many as you say you are going to use I would hesitate to cobble up the connection to the light circuit.

A possible alternative method for this scheme

Check out what's available at http://www.partylights.com/Strings-Bulbs/CommercialStringers-Medium as a way to mount CFLs without having to "roll your own" socket string. As a disclaimer, I should state that I haven't used any of these products, but have saved the website as a source for future reference. I can't remember which model railroad blog or forum I got the info from, maybe someone else here will remember, or can report on an actual use these socket strings for layout lighting.

Lowell

There's a differnt lamp socket...

..that you can use threaded lamp rod with, and it has screw connections on it so all you need to do is use a lamp cord, connect to the socket and plug into a regular outlet that is connected to a separate light switch and breaker. 

I'm curious how you are calculating the Power Factor with those CFL's since you have 120 of them. 

Ken L.

Partylights

Now that is a down right slick idea. What could be any simpler? The 2' spacing is ideal. 100 ft - 50 sockets for $200. $4 a socket is roughly what one would have invested in sockets, straps, wire, and wire nuts. Great find!

Partylights - Hardwired

I see the commercial strings are available in custom lengths, priced by the socket and without lead cord or power plug, perfect for hardwiring.

I've used similar strings to these on construction sites for temp. lighting and they worked well.  These are intended to be permanently mounted, even better.

Interesting find!

Careful, please

Hello everybody,

Lowell, my jaw dropped when I saw  your layout.  It is a master piece. 

This form of lighting is a good idea, it saves on energy, using the fluorescent bulbs BUT please consult with an electrician with regards to what you are doing.  I myself am a electrician familiar only with the Canadian Electrical Code and can not speak for the US Electrical Code.  In Canada that type of wiring would be considered a fire hazard for multiple reason and illegal for multiple reasons. 

Hope you understand.

Frank

Frank, what are you talking about?

Are you referring to the original pic of sockets with short pigtails or are you talking about the cords with wires coming off to lighting sockets or all of the above.  I would find it difficult to believe that a commercial product with UL approval would not be able to meet electrical codes. 

Before or after the plug

Big difference code-wise which side of the plug you are on. If you can plug it in then it is a consumer device and not governed by building code. Everything from the wall receptacle to the meter on your house is governed by code.

The party lights are 14 ga wire and limited to 1250 watts total so assuming they are of quality manufacture there should be no issues. UL certification is further assurance (although not a guarantee) they are safe to use.

When we model railroaders hard wire our layout lighting to a circuit in our house we are clearly in violation of code. If we instead use a plug to plug the lights in then we are not violating code although sloppy or poorly engineered layout lighting could pose a very real hazard.

Thanks for the clarification, Alan.

I just have no use for a post that in effect says "Nothing in this thread is legal!"  I realize that Frank probably did not mean that, but if you examine what he actually said in his post, that would be an accurate summary of what he posted even if it was not what he meant.

Clarification

Hello,

Here in Canada we are not allowed to use 2 separate  #14 wires with suitcase connectors  in the open like what is shown in your pictures, unless it is approved from a government safety standards institution such as CSA for Canada.  Stringers such as what was posted here are of the type approved for such useage.: http://www.partylights.com/Strings-Bulbs/CommercialStringers-Medium

If this particular type of stringer is  approved by UL in the states then great, I apologize for any troubles caused otherwise all that is being pointed out is that there could be issues with the installation.

Frank 

Party Lights

Their web site indicates that the commercial strands are not UL approved.  They really should indicate the status for each product.

Dante

UL approval

Keep in mind UL approval is not a requirement to sell a product in the US. It is voluntary on the part of the manufacturer. UL was originally created by a consortium of insurance companies to gauge relative safety of a device. Data from the tests was used to price liability insurance policies to manufacturers.

As UL approval grew and consumers became more aware of its existence it morphed into essentially a marketing tool. Consumers, rightfully so, developed trust in UL approved products so manufacturers began using UL approval to instill that consumer trust in their products. At one time UL approval was a product feature differentiation that gave a product an advantage over similar products. Today UL approval is ubiquitous so consumers either pay no attention to it at all or on the other extreme won't buy anything that isn't UL approved.

The original UL mission continues to this day - help insurance companies correctly price liability policies. Of course they don't go out of their way to advertise that. It would devalue the marketing aspect and that is really what manufacturers seek to get from UL approval.

Neat idea!

I've seen something similar to this on the net, but I like this. 

BTW, I did find a website by doing a search of "watts to amps" on line and found that 200 watts uses around 1.6 amps. Since were talking a 9 watt bulb, I think he can add more and not have any issues. 

And Alan is correct on the code thing. I work at HD, and the questions we get in electrical make most of the pros shake their head. Like the guy wanting to hook his dryer directly to the line off the power pole.... 

Art

Great idea...but

I really like this idea, but these Party Light stringer sets appear to take 10 watt or lower "decorative" bulbs.

I like Steve's idea of using the 14 watt = 60w  n:vision low heat-long life bulbs. http://magnoliaroute.com/magnolia_route_123.htm     Would this still work or am I wrong?

James

25 Watt Maximum

The sockets are rated for a maximum 25 watt bulb.

It sounds like the CEC (Canadian Electrical Code) won't allow the hardwired strings so those of us in Canada had best stick with the plug-in strings to avoid violating codes.

I wonder if it's the lack of a grounding conductor that makes them a no-no under the CEC rules?

CFL vs. T8?

Has anybody done any comparison between the above design with CFL bulbs, and regular straight T8 bulbs?  Specifically, I would be curious to know:

• Initial cost per unit length
• Light output per unit length
• Power used per unit length
• Life expectancy of bulbs, in hours and/or on-off cycles
• Light quality (temperature and flicker) available
• Evenness of light (hot spots, or diffused?)

I suspect that the T8 fixtures would come out cheaper overall, and probably slightly more efficient, but the CFL design has a much higher flexibility.

Maybe...

I do tend to agree Ken, with one caveat, only if using standard length 48" T-8's, IMO.  If you have to use many of the shorter fixtures, the cost starts to even out I think.

The light strings also offer the plug-in and install yourself aspect, where the T-8 fixtures should be installed by an electrician and under a permit unless they are of the plug-in variety.  I think you have to consider that in the cost too.

As you were

Have fun...

Do we really...

....need to bring in politics/legal issues into the discussion?  I would really like to explain in great detail why the previous statement is incorrect, but I shall refrain from doing so because this is a forum on Model Railroading NOT The U.S. Constitution. 

Ken L

Party Lights/UL Approval

I believe that you will find that the NEC-a referenced standard for most if not all US building codes-requires "approved" and "listed" equipment (which includes luminaires and lampholders among the myriad devices we hardwire or plug into our electrical systems-our transformers are another example).  The authority having jurisdiction for approval will almost certainly look for a UL listing.  And it is only common sense to use lighting that has been manufactured and tested to meet safety standards.

Dante

Flag Wavers and Code Wavers

Yup, here we go!

For the good of all

Kevin, I believe everyone's comments are posted in the general interest of people's safety. Surely no one here is a member of the code police looking for violators. They are contributing to the conversation by stating their understanding of what should be done to keep everyone safe. Building codes are real. You, I and everyone else are legally bound to them by our respective governments. In this light it seems appropriate code compliance enter into discussions where people's safety is concerned. Especially when it is totally unknown who might be reading the material. An electrical knowledge clueless person could very well create a dangerous situation for themselves. The mention of code at least alerts them to the fact there is a place to look for rules that if followed will ensure their safety.

I know from previous posts you are not electrical knowledge challenged. You know the difference between a safe electrical installation and one that is a hazard. Others might not be so fortunate.

Indeed Alan, the good of all...

Hey Alan,

I agree that safety concerns are an important part of the discussion.  I think they have been noted more than once in this thread.

We'll see where this goes.  When posts about how everything is made in China and about the NEC crop up and begin to alter the course of the discussion, it begins to get tedious.  I'm just saying...

I am experienced with electricity and things electrical.  I am also experienced with using common sense.  I don't play with dangerous substances that I don't understand.  For example although I've always wanted to try making ANFO (aka fuel oil and fertilizer can you say KABOOM) I instead use my common sense and leave what I know nothing about, ALONE!

I would hope that someone who has NO electrical knowledge, does at least have the common sense to not mess with household AC power and wiring, which surely, every adult must know is dangerous and often fatal if mishandled.

Shocking

I find some of the comments on this thread "shocking" although certainly "grounded" in good common sense (which has now become uncommon).  Just remember "Safety First" - not only because of laws / codes, but because human life is more important than a model railroad OR saving money on a cheaper alternative that may (or may not) cause a fire, shock, or death.

Electrically your,

Rick