Russ Bellinis

First off this post is not intended to start a discussion on whether the NMRA weight standards for rolling stock is obsolete or not, and I would consider any discussion going in that direction to be deliberately off topic.

A freind of mine picked up a Walther's r-t-r ADM tank car a few days ago.  It was on sale at about 1/2 price, as is , no returns.  He got it home and when he got it out of the box, it weighs less than 1/2 of what the NMR standard weight for it should be.  He can tell that there is some sort of weight in the tank, but sees no way to open the car up to add weight to it.  Has anyone here ever opened up a Walther's tank car to add weight and put it back together without doing damage to it?

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joef

Adding weight to tank cars

My method for adding weight to tank cars you can't easily open is to carefully drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom and pour in enough liquid plaster to bring it up to weight.

I make the plaster very runny and use a postage scale to measure out the weight of plaster I will need. I have a tiny funnel that I got from a gourmet cooking supply store and I use it to assist pouring in the plaster.

After pouring the plaster in, plug the hole with some modeling clay and set the car upright to give the plaster as low a center of gravity as possible while it sets up. Let tyhe car sit for a couple of days.

I replace the modeling clay with a little putty, sand it smooth, and then paint it the color of the car.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Russ Bellinis

Thanks, Joe.

I had never thought of using liquid plaster.  I'll pass the word on to him.  We were discussing using steel shot and epoxy, but it is difficult to control exactly where the shot would end up for weight distribution when the epoxy set up.  Do you just put tape over the hole after the first pour, to seal the tank so that you can turn it over and to settle the plaster to the bottom of the tank for a low center of gravity?

Oops! I just reread your post and saw your suggestion to use modeling clay to plug the hole while the plaster dries.  Somehow I missed that point on the first reading.

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Pirosko

I have also used sand, it is

I have also used sand, it is easy to fill as much weight as required when done on a scale, it levels itself out when you turn it over, and similarly, I plug the hole with a glued in sprue and filed smooth. 

 

Steve

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Joe Brugger

Weights

How is the Walthers car assembled? I was able to pry the ends off a similar Atlas car without any damage -- they were simply pressed on. Some assembled cars are very permanently stuck together but others re-kit themselves quite easily.

Joe: What happens to the moisture in the plaster as it cures?

 

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LKandO

Joe: What happens to the moisture in the plaster as it cures?

It's a tank car. That's its lading!

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
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joef

Joe: What happens to the moisture in the plaster as it cures?

While I like Alan's answer, the moisture stays sealed in the car as permanent internal humidity - no harm done.

Plaster curing is a chemical reaction, not an action of water evaporating (drying). The plaster sets up just fine, even if the mosture can't go anywhere.

But sand is a good option as well - with the advantage that you can close the hole immediately with a styrene plug and it's self-leveling when you turn the car back upright.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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