I used threaded rod

I'm supporting vinyl flooring, but I used 1/4" threaded steel rods with nuts and fender washers (the big ones) both top and bottom on the benchwork/foam. 

Then you just need to figure out how to attach the hardboard to the rods. 

What sort of benchwork do you have? Is it constructed so you can have risers that you could screw the hardboard into?

For a flat surface…

For a flat plywood surface, I used pocket screws to fasten 1x2 and 1x3 verticals for backdrop support.  Depending on what you’ve got for benchwork that might work well or be a useless idea.

My backdrop is short as the

My backdrop is short as the layout folds up, but I secured it at the bottom using super glue.  It's been solid for a couple of years now.

layers

I think the key is to use two layers of backdrop material separated by some stiffening structure, rather than trying to have a single sheet of masonite sticking up and waving in the wind.

You could build a frame, like a window, of 1x2, square frame on all sides joined at the corners with cross braces in the middle as needed, and bolt it to your benchwork. It would only be 2" thick plus the thickness of two sheets of masonite.

If you're going to have it be thicker on the blob end, you can use that extra thickness for more horizontal stability.

The hardboard/Masonite is

The hardboard/Masonite is only one sided smooth from what I've seen here, so I'd have to put two pieces up where it's two sided, which is all of it.

1x2

1x2's attached to the joists as the vertical supports with Masonite attached to both sides.

1x2s or 2x2s

I usually use 2x2s and extend them downward sandwiched  between the two sides of the benchwork . Depending on the type of benchwork you might just bolt the sandwich together with the 2x2s flush with the bottom, or if that is not stiff enough or you might need to extend the 2x2s up to the ceiling or down to the floor to stabilize the divider....DaveB 

What I do

I build a 2X2 or 2X4 stud wall and attach the hardboard to that.  If you build the divider with top and bottom plates like a regular wall, it can function as a structural support to some extent, and thus reduce the number of legs you'll need.

Thanks Rob and others.  I

Thanks Rob and others.  I have some fairly narrow spots so wanted to minimize the thickness of the support structure.  A 1x3 or 1x4 may be the best compromise and hopefully good enough for a 2 foot scene divider.

I used 1/2"...

I needed a very thin backdrop in several places so I used 1/2" square steel tube.  I welded mounting plates to the bottom of the tube and secured the verticals to the plywood base.  I ripped several pieces of wood into 1" x 1/2" pieces.  I glued the wood pieces vertically to the Masonite, one on each side of each 1/2" square vertical, then glued the other piece of Masonite to those.  

Randy 

  "I have some fairly narrow

Hi Jim, Yeah, a 1x3 or 1x4 should be plenty strong enough. The greatest strain on the backdrop would be when you are attaching it and painting it. The rest of the time it just stands there. I'd sandwich the 1x3 or 1x4 between the two benchwork sections and squeeze  the joint  tight with carriage bolts. 1x3 with 1/8 masonite on each side would give a 1  inch wide divider/backdrop. Add a cap of trim material and it will look neat....DaveB

I'm making a slim 14" tall

I'm making a slim 14" tall backdrop for my current layout  - one-sided but I don't think that would make much difference - could skin the frame on both sides.. I simply used 3/4" square poplar dowels for the vertical posts every couple of fee, and 1x2s horizontally to make a frame. Glued and Kreg scewed - if I had clamps long enough I would not actually bother with the screws. Faced with 1/8" tempered masonite.It is *plenty* rigid. In fact, it is rigid enough that I can hang a top and front valance with LED light strips off it, though I will probably put a couple of stay cables from the valance to the wall just to be safe.

-Kevin Rhodes

Port Charlotte, FL

Freelancing the MEC & Portland Terminal