Hmmm rather strange... the

Hmmm rather strange... the PVA lifted from the base or the Peco grass failed to bond with the PVA?

The only reasonable explanation i can think of is some sort of incompatibility between the two materials. I have seen vac-form canopies for models that refused to bond with fuselages despite using various CA glues, or epoxies...

On a different note, the whole picture looks great, with the colors of the road, the ditch and the adjacent grass... they fit together great!

Inadvertent success

I have no idea about what may have happened but agree with Yannis on the overall look.

The initial grass field is excellent, and the grass/weed field after vacuuming also looks real. I might be inclined to touch-up the white glue spots and let it ride.

Material?

That is strange but will say having bald areas mixed in with the grass areas actually looks pretty good!
 

Two things I can think of...

1. Bald areas had a thin layer of glue that started to dry out before you applied the grass.  (Does not take long before white glue starts to dry)

2. The Peco material does not adhere well with white glue. 
 

Joe

I agree that is odd.  I’ve

I agree that is odd.  I’ve not experimented with static grass yet, only grass mats.  However, both actually look very good, maybe a bit of varied textures in the bare spots would add even more.

But, it all depends on the look you’re going for, and I’ve no doubt you will make it look excellent either way.

Divine intervention?

No idea what might have caused it, but I think the scenery gods may have intervened.  It looks really good with those bare spots, really adds to the realism in my opinion. 

Probably best not to mess with it. Don't want to anger the gods and all. 

Randy

All of the above.

I agree that the "accidental" does look better.

Well I redid it.  I do

Well I redid it. 

I do like the "accidental look" so I put a wash of burnt sienna over the bald spots to bring out detail then applied mostly Noch grass with a bit of yellow Peco grass blended in. I put greener grass on the edges of the ditch.

The white spots were where the Celluclay was exposed. I've learned recently that Celluclay can be pre coloured before applying so I will do this in the future for the rest of the module.

I think after I vacuum it tomorrow, hopefully more bald spots will show, as there is excess loose grass on it now.

Here I am again with my opinion.

Whether you asked for it or not.I also agree with the subsequent comments. You have inadvertently created a scene that is an improvement over the original attempt. As for my opinion: I dislike using a water based adhesive. Elmer's is not my #1 choice. And as has been mentioned, there's some problem between the grass, the foam?, the paint? and all the different materials. I am currently experimenting with using DAP Alex caulk - by spreading it thinly, sprinkling "stuff" over it, leaving it cure. And brushing off the excess. And will be sharing that when I can figure out how to take decent pictures. Of course, I doubt it I can get those superb colors you are getting. But as I say "the use of Elmer's is low on my priority list!"

Morgan, brings to mind I used

Morgan, brings to mind I used to have problems with white glue not adhering to Woodland Scenics earth coloured paint.

I'm entertaining the idea of using carpenter's glue, or at least experiment with it. 

Look forward to seeing how your DAP experiment turns out.

It's the huge choice!

Dee: What I find difficult to fathom: The number of adhesives now on the market. So many more than I remember from the 50's when we had Ambroid, Goo, and DUCO. What I ask is: is carpenter's glue similar to Elmers? I do have some Elmer's wood glue, which looks like Elmers with yellow coloring.And what about that Gorilla glue you used? So, since we are experimenting, keep trying the way you do and I'll see what happens to me. Just remember what I've advocated all along. Paint the surfaces before gluing/or caulking. One never knows what an adhesive may do to raw foam. As far as I can tell, the caulk has no effect on either raw nor painted. But I just like painted surfaces better.

Glue

I would think the glue has to have certain properties to be effective with static grass.

First it has to "conduct" a static charge.

It has to be wet enough to remain "sticky" for the time it takes to apply the glue.

It has to be thick enough to help keep the strands vertical until the glue hardens.

The "failure" could be that the glue was too thin or dried/skinned over enough that it wasn't sticky.  For example if you applied all the glue, applied one brand/length/color of static grass, then reloaded with another brand/color/length of grass, the glue might have dried enough during the reload process that it wasn't "sticky". 

It may be that adding a latex/acrylic/water based slow drying agent to white glue would help its performance.

PS: Depending of course on what you were trying to replicate, I think the 2nd pass of the failure turned out way better than the first pass before it was vacuumed.

I gave up on white glue years ago

Hi Dee

Gave about a gallon of white glue to a friend as he likes it........not me.

 Anyway, I find that a half/half mix of water and Liquitex Matte Medium does the trick and doesn't skin over like white glue. I apply it by dabbing random spots on the surface with a chip brush (when modeling an arid landscape you need the dirt to show through) then zapping the grass on. After everything is thoroughly dry and vacuumed it's time to take a small wire bristle brush and go in and remove some more grass. After all that I take Krylon camo paint, decant and thin it and air brush some color variations.

 Now after saying all that...........whew! I'm tired just thinking about it.

Your latest application looks like it will be a winner.

Thank Rick

You've said it like I've been trying to do. I have never figured out just what I don't like about Elmers. Not even for ballast. Just a personal dislike of it. I remember using water and paste as a paper glue as a kid. And have never liked it since. I did use the Elmers wood glue for fixing a cracked rocking chair seat. But that was the only time. Mixing a color in with the Matte Medium sounds feasible for the ground color, so that whatever shows through the grass will be what you want.

Caulk might not work...

I haven't tried static grass yet, but have an applicator and will get around to doing it.  From what I have read- the caulk won't work for static grass as the liquid in the glue or matte medium mix is what makes the electrical charge "flow" and makes the grass filaments stand up. I am not sure that there is enough liquid in caulk, and just sprinkling static grass on caulk would make it lay flat, not vertical.  

Craig

Tiny UFO's?

Looks like HO scale aliens are trying to communicate with crudely shaped crop circles?. ...DaveB

Rick, I now recall years ago

Rick,

I now recall years ago using Matte Medium for Stonehammer's grass. It worked well and has held up well over the years - exposed to dampness, heat, and cold in storage. I have even vacuumed it with a stiff brush and the grass stayed intact.

Decant, is putting in somehow into a bottle for airbrushing?

Dave H, Makes sense. I think

Dave H,

Makes sense. I think it could have skinned over. When I vacuum tomorrow, we'll see how it holds up.

DaveB, Could be or Greek

DaveB,

Could be or Greek deities.

No matter what the final outcome......

.......I like it all.  You really have got the application of static grass down pat.  Mine always ends up looking like a well worn shag carpet!  You're probably too young to remember shag carpets!  LOL....

Peter

decanting spray cans

Dee,

 Yes, decanting a spray paint is removing the paint from the container. I've seen demonstrations of people doing it in ways I really can't recommend but the best way I have found is very simple. 

Notes:

 Wear gloves and hold the straw on the nozzle.

 Go slow.

After decanting do not put the cap back on the new paint bottle tight.......the accelerant in the Krylon needs to release itself. You can tighten the cap after it sits all night. 

Never shake the bottle to remix the pigment into the thinner (some paints retain some of the accelerant longer than others) just slowly stir it.

 It does not need to be thinned to use in an airbrush.

I've used a boatload of the decanted Krylon and if you look at pictures of my layout the tan soil and grasses are airbrushed with camo "sand". Camo browns and greens are also used on the ground cover.

Peter, I remember shag

Peter,

I remember shag carpets especially in customised vans, but I was too young to have one of those.

Rick,I wish I had done that

Rick,

I wish I had done that when I painted the rails of my track.

I'm going to take a look at your layout's examples, and please feel free to post one of your favourites pics of it here.

Time for a little humor!

Or maybe not! I wanted to decant a spray can. I carefully fitted a tube and was able to get the paint into a cup.  Didn't wear gloves, didn't get overspray, had no problem - until! Guess what? The cup was plastic and the paint dissolved the cup. What a mess! I now use metal or glass, not plastic.

Morgan, Valuable humour!

Morgan,

Valuable humour!