Sometimes the first step can be the hardest

I delayed, and delayed, and delayed on starting the second module, for absolutely no good reason.

At this time, the first module is still under construction, but nearing the limit of what I can do while it's on it's own - I need another one to join to to expand the trackwork.

So...this past weekend, I finally took the first step, and glued the foam to the plywood base. 24 hours of drying time, and voila! 

Sometimes, it's the smallest steps.....

What will you use to fill the gaps?

Scarpia,

Looks like your foam doesn't quite come to the end there - I'm guessing you'll have a gap between the modules.

What, if anything, do you plan on using to fill it?

I'm not sure yet. It's going

I'm not sure yet.

It's going to depend on how big the gaps are - I didnt' get clean cuts when I cut the stuff, and while I'd like to replace it, getting the materials is such a PITA here, I'll live with it.

Once the majority of the track is down, the modules will be joined and fixed in place with each other - at that time, I may either try and find the gap filling foam in can, or just use loose material underneath a spakle surface. There shouldn't be a lot of movement as the pylwood module base will be tight to it's neighbor.

Once that's down, than track goes across  - note there are no joints happening at any time the plywood or foam meet.

Cork underlayment

With the foam attached to the plywood, I was a even able to move forward with this! First was lining up the module tops. I decided to match up the plywood top instead of the module face (due to what clearly are some inaccuracies in their construction), and clamped the first module to the second tightly.

I than went through and punched out the center lines of each track with a large wax pencil. This allows me to punch through the paper to the foam. Other folks have different ways of transferring the track plan to the layout, but for me this is easy - and will have to be done again once the cork is down. For now, it provides a great guide on to where I need to apply the cork roadbed.

Progress!

Progress! With the cork down and dried, I transferred the track plan to the cork itself. I do this by using a sharpie in the same holes I punched through with the pencil, and than connecting the resulting dots.

I was struck again at how useful taking the time to make the mock up buildings. With the track lines in place, I had enough time to start putting down some ties, and being able to size up the engine house at this stage was very useful.

Fast Tracks jigs!

Friday

Today's Friday, a day off here in the UAE, and I took advantage of high winds to stay indoors and get some work done! More ties went in, and I got two turnouts fully assembled, gapped, and ready to go.

I had actually forgotten how much fun it is to build these turnouts. That's a good thing, as I need another 4 for this section! 

Looks good, Scarp!

I think you will be fine with the joints as long as you don't have a track joint over the top of the module joints.  It appears that the gap is only about 1/4 inch, am I right?  Rails will easily bridge that gap without a problem.  The only reason to fill the gap is for a scenery base.  If you have the spray foam insulation material available there, you could spray it in the gap, and once it expands and set up, just run a scraper or sure form tool over it to level it out.

Wish I was at Amherst....

Wish I was at the Amherst show (were I home in the States I would be), but I'm not. So instead, I spent some more time on the module.

I had forgotten to slope the edge of the cork, and I took care of the first coat of that today.

That's not much, but I did get another two (this time code 83) turnouts made, gapped, tested, and washed.

It's not a big deal to make a single turnout from the double crossover template; I measure the length of ties from a printed copy of the standard template and go from there.

There are also two extra ties in this jig vs a single turnout, I go ahead and add them in with the proper gaps.  In the photo below, the black marks on the ties are already cut gaps (I read somewhere that sharpie repels flux, so I go ahead and mark up all of my gaps with it, just in case I'm really sloppy).

just finishing up some soldering...

and the finished turnout,

just two more no. 6 turnouts to go for Module 2......

Thanks for posting that

I have heard you can do a single TO from a cross over jig but never seen it done.  I know what I need to buy now.  Thanks for that, and the whole thread too.

Steve

Track Gang OT

Looks like you've got the track gang working over-time, Scarpia. They're making good progress though. Keep them at it. Things are looking good.

Roy

Joining modules

FWIW, many moons ago I built a modular layout. In order to keep the modules aligned I used an idea from some long-forgotten modeling mag. I made all the proposed end module pieces at once with a groove about 1" high by ½" deep, then cut a 1" by 1" and glued one piece on one end piece so it would mate with the groove on the next one.  Then I attached and worked the first two modules at the same time, This way everything was at the same level and could be taken apart and reassembled in the exact same relative location, After that I just kept adding one more section at the time. Modules, after being mated, were attached together with 2 1/4" carriage bolts, the whole thing resting over L girder benchwork. Never had a problem with misaligned track.

I wish I were at Anherst too, but...

I don't know is you've heard the recent weaher reports about the recent weather in this area of the world, but we've had lots of snow and cold weather. I really don't know what's happening in Massachusetts but since that is not so far away from wher I am, and we recently got 19 inches of snow here and the roads aren't exactly in good condition right now (potholes and other problems) you ight be better off where you are right now than you would be if you were in Amherst.

Irv

Fortunately Irv

Fortunately, Irv, being a steadfast and hardy Yankee from Vermont, I've never been turned away by bad weather (slowed, sure).  In fact it was just last February 26 we flew into JFK, found all of the flights canceled, schools closed, etc in NYC due to snow, and we ended up getting a rental car and driving to Boston.

So for me, I try to make the weather not a reason to avoid doing the the things I want to do - such as model railroading.

progress

I enjoy seeing the progress you are making.I hope the unrest doesn't spread to the UAE and cause you problems

Thanks Brian

Thanks Brian, but If I understand it correctly we should be fine here in the UAE  - there are major differences between the situation, not the least of which is that the UAE does not have 80% of it's population living under the poverty line.  This is also not a fake democracy, but instead a monarchy, and folks for the most part seem content.

So we're keeping an eye on it, but not overly worried - certainly not enough to slow the track crews!

Crossover Jig

Steve,

I forgot to mention that with the crossover jig, you don't need the extra ties-  the turnout is fine without them. The two extras based on my picture are the first and seventh from the right (diverging end) of the turnout. Hope this helps.

today's meager efforts included some more plaster work near the engine house. I'm intending on trying to "concrete" the driveway; so here is the first coat of plaster down.

another turnout is also in the jig, with the ties cut, and a few of the rails sorted out. Week day work is always slower than weekends....

Excuses

First, the weather in/at the AMhearst show was fine this weekend. In fact, the sun was out. In Massachusetts, they know how to deal with snow. I've been there in bad weather, and it's never been a problem, because they know how to handle it up there.

Second, nice to see the progress on this latest module, Thomas..........I need some "gumption", to work on mine, and I think you have  provided me with some, thanks!

RAH

Gumption

Ralph, I have to say, I get mine watching the progress on Jason's layout! 

Back to this one, I was able to get another turnout finished - it's amazing how fast these go together as compared to the double crossover!

 Wow, hope you didn't mean

Wow, hope you didn't mean me!  I get my motivation from seeing Andy Rubbo's PRR layout (and of course Ralph's e-mails!)

Motivation

Jay - I've never heard of Andy Rubbo before, but I started searching for more photos after seeing the one you posted.  He's captured the feel of the Elizabeth/Newark area so well I can just about smell it.  His muted colors really work well for the setting.  Definitely some motivational modeling.

 Now you know why I come home

Now you know why I come home motivated every time I get back from his layout, not only does he have the Northeast Corridor in his basement, he also has it in his back yard!

Here's a video clip of his layout:

That was pretty amazing

That was pretty amazing Jay, but I have say I think I'm getting jaded. All of that work, fantasic work, and the loco's pantographs weren't even touching the wires.....I was a bit disapointed

Back to the module, I got up this AM and finished the last turnout.

Driveway

With the driveway sanded a bit, I went ahead and put a coat of  Woodland Scenics Slate Gray color wash over the area. Here are the results.

I'm still not sold on it.....the expansion cracks came out well, and I may be able to turn it around with following coats of drybrushed lighter grays.....but I'm just not sold yet.

If you're wondering about the non-square edges, I'm looking for the effect where cinders and weeds have heavily overgrown the sides.

Scenery

I had time to hit the pad with a light over paint / heavy drybrush of Poly Scale light gray primer. In the picture below, the pieces to the right have had the light gray treatment.

I decided (while the brush was wet with paint from working on the first module) to paint the rest of the front the brown color I've been using, mostly to hide the pink foam.

I use Woodland Scenics fine turf "earth" under a dusting of summer lawn mix from MRH sponsor Scenic Express for this base coat/underlayment.