eastwind

I've never built a multi-deck layout, so I've only read discussions about whether to build top-down or bottom up. In reading these, the problem of bumping one's head on the deck above seems to stand out to me as a bigger objection than some of the others. The problem in building bottom up that resonates the most with me is dropping stuff on the laid track or scenery. 

So my questions are, A) are these really the two most significant issues, andb) how much of a problem are they? Assuming you know dropping stuff is a problem, how well can you mitigate it? 

My current plan is to have detachable (bolt-on) shelf supports for the upper layer. I'd get all the horizontal pieces attached to the verticals, then remove the upper ones and start building the lower deck. Once I have track laid and working and the scenery land form roughed in, I'd bolt the upper supports back on and start on the track-laying for the upper deck. I'm only going to do two decks, that's plenty enough additional challenge for me for this time. If I ever do a third layout, then I'll think about 3 decks on that one. (one additional deck per layout seems to me like a good rule of thumb to keep one's build complexity within reach of one's experience)

I don't plan to be doing any under-deck soldering. I will be running my bus along the front of the layout and bringing all feeders out to the front and doing my soldering there, or I'll use spade lugs and terminal strips to collect feeders for a sub-drop from the main bus. 

 

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

Reply 0
Will_Annand

Back to front.

I am building a multi-deck N scale layout. I put up the hardboard back board first, then my lady painted the backdrop and I added my 3D background.

Next I built all the benchwork and laid most of my track on both levels.

Right now I have the basic landforms in and terraformed (basic contours established).

I will be building my scenes on my benchwork on hardboard and dropping them into the layout when complete. Even my largest village (20" x 72").

Once placed on the layout, the dioramas will be worked in.

When doing them, I will complete the upper level first and use drop sheets on the lower level to avoid damage from dripping scenery.

Reply 0
pldvdk

Both Ways Possible

On my last triple deck layout I built from the bottom up.  That was nice because I never had to worry about bumping my head on things above.  The bad part was the main deck was the widest, and kind of got in the way as work progressed above it. 

On the current layout I'm building I installed the joists for all four decks, beginning with the lowest deck first.  I had to do it that way to determine the proper height for each deck.  When I get ready to start laying track though, I'm going to work from the top down this time as that will make things much easier, and hopefully will move construction along much quicker. 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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Reply 0
RSeiler

Bottom up...

I built from the bottom up, and I used the lower levels to support the upper.  Trackwork is a lot easier without a deck over it. 

Randy

Randy

Cincinnati West -  B&O/PC  Summer 1975

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17997

Reply 0
David Husman dave1905

Top-bottom

I have built my shadow box sections bottom up.  Restricted clearances makes track installation and things like static grass hard to apply with the level installed above.  Down side is construction on the upper layer tends to rain dust and sawdust down onto the lower level.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

Reply 0
fernpoint

Top Down

Top down for me - all of the upper valances and lighting were done first. This would have been very difficult later in the process.
VAL07.jpg 
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Reply 0
joef

Mushroom - bottom up

By its nature, a mushroom double-decker must be built bottom up since the two decks are all one unit, at least the way I built them. So there's no debate if you're building a mushroom double-decker.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
ctxmf74

Top or bottom?

  If you build your benchwork to suit you can work on top ,bottom, or both anytime. Where to start is a minor matter as all the stuff is going to be there in all it's glory for a long time so might as well get used to working on the different layers from the get go. Of course the simple way to avoid the top/bottom choce is to just build one level layouts:> )  ....DaveB

Reply 0
rsbodwell

Depends

i actually thought about this when I was building bench work and track.  I built bench work and track bottom up.  But , I got in a hurry to complete the main line and skipped some sidings and spurs.  That was a mistake.  It is hard to fill in the extra track under the upper deck.  

My good friend and neighbor also did some scenery  on the lower deck first.  Not such a good idea.  The upper scenery will make a mess of the lower scenery, drips and such.

This is the way my situation worked out.

Roger in La Luz, New Mexico

Reply 0
Benny

...

Start to Teardown.  That is the order of all layouts.

--------------------------------------------------------

Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

Reply 0
Jwmutter

Both

I built the bench work and laid the track from the bottom up, and now am building the scenery from the top down.  That way I can use large drop cloths to cover the lower level(s) while working on the scenery.  I did install and paint all the backdrop after the benchwork for all levels was reasonably complete.

Jeff Mutter, Severna Park, MD

Http://ELScrantonDivision.railfan.net

Reply 0
eastwind

thanks

Thanks, that confirms my plans to build bottom-up - but without completing scenery. I was also going to skip some sidings in order to get the mainline done and put off until later figuring out the configuration of industry buildings, but I'll have another think about the wisdom of that. The thing is I don't have any pre-built buildings so I don't know how much space to allow.

My decks aren't going to be too deep in most places. There are some corners where the bench work will extend into the corner and the corner wont be used for anything (maybe a mountain, or maybe just hidden behind a coved backdrop). But I expect all the track to be within 18" of the aisle and any additional depth to be rising ground to support my Appalachian Mountains theme.

 

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

Reply 0
joef

+1 for masking tape scenery contours

If you watch my Siskiyou Line scenery videos, you'll see I use cardboard strips for basic scenery contours and then totally cover all the cardboard with masking tape. The end result is doing upper deck scenery later becomes no big deal because the upper deck terrain is completely sealed while slinging the plaster, thanks to the tape. Way back in the early days of SL1, I got to thinking about how scenery is done ... screen wire, cardboard strips, bunches of newspaper (hard shell) and they all make a huge mess because the terrain has holes when you start slinging the plaster. Why not, I thought, seal all that terrain first with masking tape? Now, no mess, plus I can see what the terrain looks like in “soft” form and make changes before the plaster slinging starts. And in a pinch, I can put in the cardboard strips, cover it all with masking tape, and paint it my basic dirt brown ... instant rough scenery!

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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