Track Laying for the Intermodal Terminal area...

 Hi all,

Well have started laying track for the intermodal terminal area for the top deck for the J&L Railway.  I had a few issues with the final configuration that have now been resolved and I'm about to start laying the track & turnouts in a more permanent fashion.

I'm waiting on a #8 double crossover and another #8 RH turnout and I'll start laying the track and turnouts onto the cork roadbed and begin laying the styrene for the paved areas of the terminal.  The terminal will also have entry and exit guard houses and will be serviced by two unloading/loading sidings serviced be two Mi-Jack container cranes and Kalmar container forklifts.

I'm considering adding a loading ramp for TOFC operations that may still be in the last throws of operation before being retired due to the modernisation towards the unloading/loading with the Mi-Jack cranes.  This will depend upon final track placement and room left for trailer & container storage.

Here are the first series of photos for the laying & construction of the Intermodal Facility for the J&L Railway...

Shot showing the overall configuration of the track for the Intermodal Area...

Photo showing the two (2) unloading/loading sidings serviced by the Mi-Jack cranes, each siding in 1650mm/65" in length...

Will post some more updates over the next week as progress continues...

Cheers,

Jason...

JASON, Glad to see you solved

JASON,

Glad to see you solved your track work problems.  Perhaps the lubricant in the brown glass bottle helped . . . .

Cool

I forgot what scale you were in for a minute, so luckily there was a standard reference gauge in each picture (beer)....I love how the beer follows the pictures.....! Makes me feel more normal

I'm looking forward to the progress you make with the scenery. I've been following your other blogs closely.

Intermodal ops

Jason,

Have you given any consideration to actually loading and unloading the containers with the Heljan container crane? The railroad looks like it will be a lot of fun to operate.

Mike

"  I forgot what scale you

Philip, I do believe the

Philip,

I do believe the lubrication qualities of the "Pure Blond" (name of the bear) may have loosened up the tightly bound brain cells and allowed them to free flow into a more lateral thinking state?  Or was it the opposite and actually killed off a few million allowing more room for the others to move? Not sure.......

It was a great moment being able to move forward again!

Cheers,

Jas... 

 Dustin, The standard

Dustin,

The standard reference gauge you refer to in Australia, for beer to HO is 355 millilitres in volume (12 ounces), or otherwise known here as a "stubby"...

I also don't think that we are such a small minority either!  You are quite normal...... 

Thanks for the comments too...

Cheers,

Jason...

Yes I have drooled over the Heljan Container Crane...

 Mike,

Thanks for reminding me of that impressive beast that would look absolutely fantastic on the layout, and that would certainly add some fantastic alternate operations to the layout!  As much as I'd love to have it I don't think I have the room to do it justice and I don't think the minister for warfare, finance and diplomacy would approve such a purchase considering the fiscal spending already undertaken by the CEO of the J&L.......

I can only dream that I'll win the lotto, or find out I'm the long lost relative of a billionaire banker from Nigeria....

Cheers,

Jason...

Track laying

I understand the urge to get track going quickly but highly recommend installing the backdrop prior to doing so. It's a lot easier and eliminates the chance of messing up track etc when finally doing so. I installed all the backdrop and painted it basic blue prior to even putting in the benchwork on the outer walls and first thing on the penninsula when benchwork was built.

Cal

http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/

Reading my mind...

 Thanks Cal,

You must have been reading my mind, still along way off actually laying track, quite a few issues to iron out first as I will post in the next thread.

It did seriously dawn on me today how much of a hassle it would be not to install the backdrop first!

Cheers,

Jason...

Checking alignment, grades & turnouts...

 Hi All,

Well tonight I spent a couple of hours checking the configuration, alignment, grade & turnouts for the intermodal area of the layout.  I wanted to run a series of tests to ensure that I didn't have to do major works to either the baseboard plaster, plywood or the subframe after I had caulked down the cork roadbed & track.

The first point of call was to check the area in which trains will traverse a grade from behind the return blob from the middle deck onto the top deck.  The radius is 24" throughout the rear section of the return blob, easing out into 28" and into a #7 curved turnout.

Photo of the graded section heading down to the middle deck in the return blob...

(The plaster on the graded section has to be fixed as I cut it a little short...)

I wanted to run the 89' Trailer Trains through it as well as the Proto SD9 & Athearn SD45 as these will be the longest 6 axle motive power that I will be running for some time.  Firstly I checked the small hump that exists from the graded section behind the layout, and onto the flat area of the start of the intermodal terminal.  The 89' TT passed with a good 5mm.  

Next I checked the SD45 and as you can see from the photos, it was close...

The next check was to check the tracking of the 89' TT on the 28" curves, I wanted to see how much these actually hang over the curve as this will most likely be the longest rolling stock that will grace the layout.  A four train lash up negotiated both the 24" & 28" curves fine.

The 24" curve that is visible on the layout will be view blocked by a highway overpass and associated landscaping features.

89' Trailer Train on a 28" radius curve...

Looking for opinions on the overhang above, I can't increase the radius from 28".  But I may be able to view block the majority so that it can't be seen.

I then also wanted to check a series of two SD45's & a lash up of four 89' TT running through the turnouts leading to the sidings that will service the Intermodal Terminal.  There is one slight "S" curve at the start but the entire train handled it with ease, and there were no major issues.

Shot showing the series of turnouts leading to the two sidings that will service the Intermodal Terminal, the far left line is the main line.

Testing the turnouts leading to the Intermodel sidings...

And lastly a couple of mock-up shots showing a general scene for what will be the first area that will have scenery on the J&L...

Next step is to get some backdrops in and painted a sky blue, and finish off the graded return blob, then get my teeth stuck into some track laying...

Cheers,

Jason...

Roadbed & Bricks...

Hi All,

Well just a quick update today, have had little time on the layout this week as I have been building our new front fence before I have to return to work from annual leave.

What I did manage to get done on the layout was installing some of the roadbed in the return blob and the first section on the top deck.

Next project will be installing the backdrop, I'm also considering using plaster drywall for this too.  I will then either paint it a sky blue like a normal wall, or install a photo backdrop...  Decision's?

Anyhow a few photo's below...

Showing the marked out path of the track into the return blob and down to the middle deck...

The caulk I am using is a coloured acrylic interior/exterior type...

Next shot is testing the radius before the caulk is applied and secured...

Spreading out the caulk ensuring even coverage and no overly high spots...  I used a plastic spatula...

Next shot securing the track and roadbed using house hold bricks, or is it the brick extra running through...

Thats all for now, more updates soon...

Cheers,

Jason...

Weight Amount

Jason, are you noticing any squish of the cork when you place the bricks? While that much weight pushes down into the caulk for a good bond, I am curious if it is introducing undulations into the track. Is there a "right" amount of weight to use?

Disregard this question if it is just the brick extra passing through.

No squish, was overkill...

 Alan,

There was no squish at all, being on a curve I wanted to make sure that the roadbed maintained the correct radius so went with the bricks.  I know a couple of full cans of unwanted soup etc, would have sufficed.

I checked it last night after posting the photos (was laid the day before posting) and the roadbed seemed fine I ran a 89' TT over it and it tracked fined, didn't appear to be and undulations in any of the section...

Your train room on your blog is looking impressive, almost ready to go......!

Cheers,

Jas...

Jason, soft drink cans

 work pretty good as weights and are a whole lot easier to drink than your alternative.

We've been using a similar caulk product on our club's new n scale layout and its tacky enough that only the occasional push pin and odd bit of tape is required to hold the track in line. After placing  the track in the caulk I gently slide a block of wood along the rails to "bed" it in.

  For your backdrop I would definitely go with the plaster sheet. I've been thinking about using it  instead of the masonite I have been using. At the moment my train room is insulated but not airconditioned and my joins are cracking. I tried two methods ,butt joins with gap sealer;and bevelling the ends and taping + base coat, the latter looks better but nonetheless still cracked. Perhaps I should've sealed both sides of the masonite.

With the cost of plaster similar to masonite and available in much longer lengths and a special 6mm thick sheet made for curving I'll be giving it a try.

Cheers

Steve

Nothing wrong with Bricks

I've used bricks to weigh down track and ballast for 40+ years and never had any trouble. In fact when I lay the cork road bed I lay sections of flat lumber 4 - 6 foot long on the ballast then I put the bricks on top of the lumber. Personally I have never glued down track I just have always used pliers and rail spikes and let the glue that held down the ballast hold the track too.  

The reason is that up until my present RR I changed my track arrangement every 9-12 months.

It was much easier for me to pull spiked down flex track with the use of thinned white glue that holds ballast to help tack it down in the first place. Track lifts quite easily with a Painters three way knife slid under the ties with this method. After lifting the track then I always used a wire brush on the back side of the flex track. After the old ballast is off the bottom of the flex all that left is to pull all the bent spikes and it's pretty much ready to reuse.

with my way I found one other way to clean the flex track of ballast and glue. I would take very hot water and fill the bath to about 4 inches deep and add 1/4 cup dawn dish soap or Ivory dish soap works very well also and let the track set for about and hour then take a 1 inch fine Brass brush and scrub the track with it and the track comes out looking almost like new. I did say almost.

There are many ways to attach track depending on how much money you want to spend and weather or not you plan to leave it down in place forever or plan to change track arrangements every couple years or make slight alterations to a small sections now and then.

The thing about bricks for weight is once you set them on the track or cork ballast make sure its level or should I say aligned with the grade because that's where the track and ballast will stay once you remove it.

Dan

I like your idea Steve...

 Steve,

Great idea with the drink cans, I actually have a bar fridge to go in the layout room so I'm liking it...  The caulk sounds very similar then to the one you are using, same characteristics.  I was really impressed with it on the module and on the layout so far.

I was hoping you would see the post and make comment on the plaster being in the same state and almost area, and knowing how the plaster/drywall would react in our climate down here.  After seeing the effort some have had to go through to get backdrops in place and shape I thought the plaster would be alot easier.

I will also have the advantage of using the plaster as part of the insulation for the walls, so will only have to sheet the one vertical wall.  The joins (which shouldn't be that many) should not be an issue so long as I back block them or provide strong support behind the sheets.

I post some updates and photos once I start installing it.

Cheers,

Jas...

They certainly don't move, when in place......

 Hey Dan,

Good to see someone else who likes to "over" engineer to ensure something stays put!  You raise a good point with the track and to caulk or spike the track.

I'm hoping that I don't have to remove any track and that I can initially get the layout design right, and that the only changes later on would be very minor or to replace/add a turnout.  I would actually use the ballast & spike method but I'm unsure how it would go in our climate and in the shed.  The caulk is proven and tested, and with some very fiddly work could be removed from the layout.

I may actually use it on sections of spurs/sidings that I think may get changed latter on, or seem just not quite right when construction is taking place.

Thanks again for the advice,

Cheers,

Jas...

Layout accessories.

Jason, I like the idea of having a bar fridge as a layout accessory. Saves having to walk down the hall or upstairs to get cans to hold down track. Also avoids unsolicited wrath on occasion.

Love the brick extra.

Roy

 Roy, Bar fridges in layouts

Roy,

Bar fridges in layouts should be mandated by the NMRA for every layout room....... 

Some of best ideas and solutions to problems have come from the mental unblocking and calming effects from the amber nectar of the gods.....

Jas......

Jason there is Nothing wrong with Caulk to hold down Track

The Rio Grande Southern RR I'm building now, I'm building as a permanent layout & I don't plan to change the track arrangement so, I'm using liquid nails to attach my track to the Cork Roadbed and also to the Homosote where I've used it. The turnouts are the only thing that doesn't get glued down just spiked. Should I have a troublesome Turnout all I need to do is remove the connectors and pull a dozen spikes. That way I can replace that turnout or repair it in just minutes without disturbing the rest of the layout or have any messy scraping and cutting that may harm the turnout even more. I also use a lighter application of Ballast on turnouts.

For anyone making a layout they plan to keep for years I suggest Caulk or liquid Nails. I prefer Liguid nails because when it dries it flattens out and sucks the track down tight against the roadbed. If your building a chainsaw I wouldn't do more than use Spikes and the white glue to hold the track in place. That way I can easly remove the track from the roadbed and then clean the tracks in the bath tub so I can use them again.

Dan

JL&T Video Tour...

 Hi All,

I decided to do a video tour of the layout work to date.

Enjoy...

Cheers,

Jas... 

JL&T TOUR

Hey Jason,

Great video showing and explaining your layout and work space.  Track work is coming along nicely.  I like the look of your wiring so far.  Very neat looking so it should be easy to troubleshoot if need be but if you continue as you've started it will likely be trouble free.

Thanks for sharing the video!

Best regards,

Kevin

Lookomg good, Jason!

I especially noticed that it looks like if you back an intermodel train in from the turnout in the far corner of the layout, you should have plenty of lead so that you can split the train without needing to foul the mainline once your train has cleared.

Jason, have you considered Fast Track jigs?  Your total cost for all of the jigs you would need is probably between $200.00 & $400.00, and it looks like you have spent almost that much on Peco turnouts for @ 1/3 of one deck.