pldvdk

My Pocahontas District layout models an Appalachian coal hauling railroad situated on the border of West Virginia and Kentucky. As you might guess, given the locale, I've got some mountains that need to be covered with a ton of trees. But how do you do that? I wanted a technique that would be fairly easy and quick, do so with minimal cost, but also look as realistic as possible. 

I know many resort to "puff ball" trees as the solution to this problem, but I've never been a fan of how such forests turn out. They always look somewhat "toy train" like to me, and next to the tracks, don't dwarf the trains as real trees tend to do along the right of way. 

Other layouts I've seen use nothing but Super Trees to forest the mountains. That gives great results, but proves to be somewhat labor intensive, not to mention more expensive than I desired. So what to do? After some deliberation I decided to strike out on my own and devise a technique to suit my needs and meet my desired criteria.

The initial attempt of my technique was posted on one of my layout blogs:

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Some of the readers that liked what they saw asked if I'd be willing to share the steps of my technique. Having promised that I would do so, this thread will try to describe that technique as best I can. I hope it will sufficiently explain everything and prove helpful for those who need to model Eastern forest scenes on their layout. 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Step 1: Preparations

For the foreground trees a line of Super Trees is used. Most Super Tree armatures end up being pointed at the top, with more of an evergreen shape to them, which might not be as suitable for modeling Eastern forests.

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Trim the top of the armature to give a more rounded shape to the tree. 

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After trimming the top of the tree armature, save all the left over pieces or sprigs, as they will be used later, and trying to be as economical as possible, we don't want anything to be wasted.. 

Once the tree armatures have been trimmed begin work on the mountain by covering the base of the mountain with fine ground foam. This gives the mountain a base coat of "grass" to build upon. Since the upper parts of the mountain will be totally covered with trees later on, there's no need to apply ground turf to those areas. 

On my layout I used a mixture of two shaker canisters of Woodland Scenics Green Grass fine turf, one shaker canister of Scenic Express Spring Grass fine turf, and one shaker canister of Scenic Express Conifer Green fine turf all mixed together.

Apply matte medium to the hillside, and fill one shaker canister with the ground turf mix. Open the "sift" part on the canister top, point it at the matte medium on the mountain, and give the canister a quick squeeze. A "puff" of ground turf will come out and be driven into the matte medium holding it in place. Once the matte medium is dried, vacuum up any loose ground turf, and then spray the area with matte medium diluted with water. (1 part matte medium to 5 parts water) This will fix the ground foam in place. 

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Next, temporarily plant a row of bare trees (without being glued down) just to see how things will look. 

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On those sections where the slope of the mountain is rather shallow, use small to medium size trees maybe in the 4"-6" range. This makes it easier to add the background trees later, as not as much height is needed for the forest canopy. In the picture above the trees on the left corner of Tubs Holler Tunnel were too high, and were replaced with lower trees before continuing.

Space the trees so their branches are close together, but don't get tangled in with the branches of neighboring trees. Using a double row of staggered trees on shallower mountain slopes makes it easier to hide the items used to make the background forest canopy later on.

If the slope of the mountain being forested is steep, you can use a single row of bigger trees in the 6"-8" range as seen in the next picture, again spacing the trees close together, but not intertwining them. 

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For trees that are near to any tracks, use an NMRA clearance guage to make sure they are planted back far enough on the mountain slope so trains will not hit the branches of the tree. Don't worry about the slope that's left visible in front of these foreground trees. That will be covered later, and give a quite realistic looking "cut line" along the right of way that simulates the area crews clear when installing track. 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Step 2: Initial Tree Line

Once the foreground Super Trees are located to your satisfaction, make the trees according to the Super Tree instructions, and plant them in the plaster scenery shell using hot glue. 

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You can use whatever tree colors you see fit or prefer. The trees on my layout were made using Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf in colors of Burnt Grass, Light Green, Medium Green, Dark Green, and Conifer Green. The majority of trees are Medium and Dark Green, roughly 1/4 are Burnt Grass and Light Green, and only about 1/8 are made using Conifer Green. 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Step 3: Foreground

Spray the open area of the ground in front, and in between the planted foreground trees with spray adhesive. (Don't forget to use a mask that filters those nasty fumes given off by the adhesive!)

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I've used a couple different spray adhesives with about equal results. Here I used 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive that I found at Walmart. The instructions on the can say to let the glue dry about 30 seconds or so until it becomes tacky before trying to stick anything to it.

(EDIT: Spray adhesives are NOT all alike. The 3M product listed above proved not to be as good as the previous cans of spray adhesive I used. I've now started using Loctite Spray Adhesive High Performance 200 with MUCH MUCH better results.)

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Next, take clump foliage and randomly push it into the spray adhesive. This simulates bushes that have started to grow up around the foreground tree trunks. Don't be too picky when you are laying the clump foliage down. The quicker you work and the more random things are, the better and more natural it seems to look. 

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I use Woodland Scenics clump foliage in the same colors as used for the leaves on the Super Trees, in about the same ratios. This helps tie the bush and tree colors together, and gives some color consistency to the whole forest scene.

Once the clump foliage is in place, take some small pieces of Super Tree sprigs that you trimmed off the top of trees in step #1, or that break off and are found in the bottom of the Super Tree bag, spray them with super hold hair spray, and then cover them with the various colors of coarse turf used for the tree leaves.

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Place some of these small pieces randomly into the foreground clump foliage around the base of the trees. This gives the look of some underlying branch structure, and heightens the three dimensional look of the clump foliage. You can put some glue on the underside of these small sprigs to hold them in place, or just stick them into the clump foliage and rely on an over spray of matte medium to be applied in later steps to do that. 

Here's what it starts to look like after adding these small Super Trees sprigs to the foreground clump foliage.

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Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Step 4: Background Forest Canopy

To make the forest canopy behind the initial tree line and foreground scenery, begin by making some newspaper wads. Use whole sheets, half sheets, and quarter sheets of newspaper to make these wads. That gives you three sizes of wads to work with: small, medium, and large. 

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Choose some newspaper wads that are just a little lower than the foreground trees planted in step 2. These will be placed behind those trees to begin the background forest canopy. 

On steep mountain slopes these newspaper wads can be placed directly behind the initial line of trees with no preparation, because the body of the foreground trees tends to hide them quite naturally. On more shallow slopes these newspaper wads will be seen in the openings between the tree trunks.

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To avoid seeing the newspaper wads in these holes, take some green Micro Mark poly fiber, stretch it out thin, apply spray adhesive to the newspaper wad, then place the poly fiber on the wad.

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Spray the poly fiber with either super hold hair spray, or spray adhesive, then apply the same coarse turf used for the leaves on the Super Trees. You can use any of the tree colors you want, but the Conifer green works good because it's dark and mimics the shadows that would be seen as you enter a forest. This particular newspaper wad had dark green coarse turf applied to it.

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Spray the hill area behind the initial tree with spray adhesive, and place these turf covered wads directly behind the initial line of trees with the turf covered area facing forward. This camouflages the newspaper wads so they can't be seen. 

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Spray the rest of the mountain to be forested with spray adhesive and continue to add plain newspaper wads all the way to the top of the mountain.

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It's best if you leave a little space between each wad. You can use newspaper wads of all the same size if you want, but you get a more irregular, and more natural forest canopy if you intermix the wad sizes together. Generally speaking you will use large and medium size wads toward the base of the mountain, to blend in well with the foreground trees, and progress to medium and small size wads the further up the mountain you go. 

After the newspaper wads are in place, take a small clump of green poly fiber and stretch it out thin. You can use a thicker mat of poly fiber if you want, but this technique was designed to use the minimum amount of material needed to get good results. Coat the the newspaper wads with spray adhesive and apply the poly fiber mat in small sections, until the whole mountain side is covered.

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Next, spray the poly fiber that's on the newspaper wads with a coat of spray adhesive. It seems to work best if you spray a section of the mountain at a time rather than trying to do the whole mountain in one shot.

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Once the spray adhesive has become tacky, place clump foliage over the poly fiber, using the same clump foliage colors as used for the foreground bushes. You can vary the color of the clump foliage as you cover the mountain, but it looks best if you have bigger sections of the same color, rather than trying to mix the colors of the clump foliage all together.

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The final step of the forest canopy is to take some of the Super Tree sprigs as were placed in the clump foliage around the base of the trees, and place them into the clump foliage that makes up the tree canopy. Using larger sprigs for the tree canopy works best, and represents trees that are slightly taller than the surrounding canopy. As with the foreground scenery, these sprigs suggest a larger branch network hidden under the forest canopy. 

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Occasionally you will find some spots in the foreground where you can see a newspaper wad showing through.

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These spots are easily fixed by shooting some spray adhesive into the area where the newspaper is showing and adding some extra clump foliage to cover the newspaper wad totally. The conifer green color clump foliage again works good for such situations.

After all is done the scenic materials are rather loosely held by the spray adhesive. Let the scene sit over night to dry, then spray with a light coat of matte medium/water mixture (1 part matte medium to 5 parts water). Don't go too heavy with this first coat, as it tends to cause pieces of clump foliage to let go and fall off. Let the matte medium spray coat dry over night. You can then go back over it with a second heavier spray coat of matte medium mixture to fix the scenic items in place more firmly. 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Step 5: Enjoy!

So how do things look when all the work is done? Here are some pictures of the forests on my layout that I've made recently using the technique I described.

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Though explaining this technique made for a rather lengthy description, don't let that scare you away. Once you get used to it the technique is really rather straight forward and simple to use. So here's hoping you'll give it a try and enjoy the results as much as I have!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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pldvdk

Addendum: Possible Alternative

It occurred to me as I was writing the description of this forest technique that the sequence of steps might be altered with possible good results. 

Once the initial tree line is installed, the next step listed (#3) was to install the foreground scenery around the base of the trees. It might prove easier to install the background forest canopy (#4) first before installing the foreground scenery. That way if any of the newspaper wads are showing through the foreground tree line, it's a little easier to apply spray adhesive and cover the area with clump foliage without the foreground scenery getting in the way. 

I haven't tried this yet for myself, but will give it a go with the next batch of forest to be planted.

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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Ironhand_13

+1!

Great photo-explanation, and I'll use this technique real soon!

-Steve in Iowa City
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Tim Moran Speed-Mo Tim

Excellent series of posts!

Paul,

Thank you for sharing this technique.The mixing of various products and the uneven heights of the newspaper wads create a natural looking forest scene.  The results are very nice and remind me of my travels in West Virginia and Virginia.

Respectfully,

Tim Moran Akron, OH

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TomO

Excellent

Paul, thanks for sharing this. I have never seen it done your way but man it looks good!

Tom

TomO in Wisconsin

It is OK to not be OK

Visit the Wisconsin River Valley and Terminal Railroad in HO scale

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Virginian and Lake Erie

Paul that is a great write up

Paul that is a great write up and the best way yet to model the eastern forested mountains. The realism is excellent and the use of materials looks to be extremely economical. I suspect this new technique might trigger a resurgence in the modeling of eastern railroads.

In looking at your technique it looks like it will be faster than puff balls, better looking and more economical. Two Sundays worth of the Dallas Morning News should be able to do an entire club layout. The packages of poly fiber should go a lot further than the puff ball method.

Your clever use of the super trees and foliage makes the whole forest look like one made of super trees.

Thanks for sharing this great discovery I hope the editors use this in the magazine and send you some compensation for it, it is quite revolutionary.

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hobbes1310

Have been waiting with baited

Have been waiting with baited breath for your step by step process. Outstanding.

 

Phil

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pldvdk

Replies

Guys, I must say that I'm overwhelmed with all your kind comments! Thanks so much! You've truly made all the work in describing this technique worth the effort!

Steve - If you come up with any improvements on this technique as you apply it to your layout, please let me know. I hope you'll post some pictures of your own layout here when you tackle your forests!

Tim - Hearing you say the forests made with this technique remind you of your travels in West Virginia is music to my ears! That's exactly what I was going for!

Tom - To be honest I've never seen trees done this way before either! I was a little apprehensive at first when I came up with this technique and tried it out for the first time, but it's worked out much better than I expected!

Rob - It seems funny to hear you describe a technique that uses newspaper wads as "revolutionary". That gave me a chuckle, but also made me feel good, especially hearing it from you. With the wealth of knowledge and experience you guys have in the club, I thought maybe someone in the past had tried this technique, or something similar to it, and I was just reinventing the wheel here. But based on your comments, apparently that's not the case. In the long run, puff ball trees are probably a cheaper route to go to make forests, but on a dollar to realism ratio, I'd have to agree with you and say this technique gives a lot of bang for the buck! 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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Prof_Klyzlr

V useful...

Dear Paul, Thanks for posting this, my current build is looking down the barrel of some W.Va hillside modelling, and this will be very helpful... Many Thanks and Happy Modelling, Aiming to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
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tretteld

Looking Good

Looks great Paul. Thanks for the detailed description.

Don Trettel

(modeling the 1970's N&W from Washington State)

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pldvdk

Replies

 

Phil - Thanks much! Glad to hear the step by step description was worth your wait. 

Prof. Klyzlr - I'm so glad to hear this might prove helpful for you in the future. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Don - Your welcome. Describing the process was more work than actually doing it!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog

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hobbes1310

Just one questions re the

Just one questions re the super trees

Did you prep them first? Not sure if u have already explained that. 

I.e did you soak them in matte medium  to straighten them out or anything before spraying them with camo earth brown?

 

Phil

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pldvdk

Super Tree Preparation

Phil,

I didn't talk about preparing the Super Trees in my post since that wasn't make focus, but the answer to your question is "yes". I do prep them before using them on the layout.

Here's the process I use to get my Super Trees ready:

1) Once the trees are separated from one another out of the bag/box, pick off any of the unsightly leaves that are attached to the stems.

2) Soak the Super Trees in matte medium (1 part matte medium:5 parts water) for a couple minutes.

3) Shake off excess matte medium by tapping the tree lightly against a piece of newspaper on the ground.

4) Hang the tree up overnight on a clothesline to dry.

5) Straighten any bent trees out as needed by touching the bent area briefly with a hot soldering iron (I use a 50w iron). This is a remarkably easy way to straighten the trees out. Much better than by hanging weights on them or using steam which I've also tried.

6) Paint the tree armature. I used Rustoleum Camouflage Earth Brown for this. It gives the trunk and trees a nice dark brown color, similar to what you see in nature when a tree is back lit by the sun.

As explained in my post, here's where I temporarily plant the trees for that initial tree line.

When I'm ready to put leaves on the tree I do the following:

1) Spray the Super Tree with Suave Super Hold hair spray.

2) Sprinkle coarse ground turf over the branches of the tree. I try not to go too heavy with the coarse turf to give the trees a see through appearance. This also helps stretch out the coarse turf and make things more economical.

3) Over spray the tree with its leaves with the super hold hair spray again. Hold the can about a foot away so the spray doesn't blow the leaves off the tree, but does coat them to help hold the leaves on. 

4) Plant the tree on the layout by making a hole in the mountain plaster shell with an awl. Put some hot glue on the end of the tree trunk. Plant the tree and hold it for a few seconds to insure that it remains standing straight up. 

This may be more than you asked for Phil, but hope that helps answer you questions and any questions others might have.

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

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Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Great Tutorial!

Paul,

Thank you for posting the very detailed tutorial.  The many photos along with the step by step instructions are really helpful!

Al Carter

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pldvdk

@ Al

Al,

Glad you found the instructions helpful. Thanks for following along!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog

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p51

Love it

Great work on the foliage. I might give it a try as I never liked how the puff trees on my own Blue Ridge area layout looked in he background.

I also loved the "Holler" signs, even though I've never seen a sign that said anything but "Hollow". My folks grew up in NE Tennessee and it was "holler" everywhere you went there.

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pldvdk

@ Lee

Lee,

Glad the foliage on my layout meets with your approval. If you try it on yours, let me know how things turn out and if you come up with a better way to do things.

As for the signage, I have to admit that I didn't know the signs always say "hollow", although that makes sense. I just put what I always heard Loretta Lynn singing about with "Butcher Holler"! 

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog

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hobbes1310

Hi Paul Thank you for the

Hi Paul

Thank you for the tree write up much appreciated.

Have started trying your foresting ways.

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Phil 

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pldvdk

@ Phil

Phil,

Let me know how it goes and if you come up with any improvements to the technique!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog

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vincep

Forest canopy

Looks real good. As a former truck driver and having been thru Virginia and West Virginia in all 4 seasons I really like this. I plan on using a mixture of this and my own method now when I get to the scenery section of my freelanced Indian Rock's Andrewsburg West Virginia Sub. Thanks for posting.
Vince P
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