brockpaine

First, an introduction of myself: you can call me Brock (or Hey You, if you prefer).  I've been reading here regularly, but commenting little.  Over the last few months, I've been getting back into model railroading for the first time since my early teens, when I had a Ye Olde 4x8 that my dad built for me.  Unfortunately, that got sold during a move, and I just never got back into building something to replace it.  That is now changing.

Back in November, my wife and I were on vacation and got stopped at a grade crossing by two trains.  I made an offhand comment about the omnipresent soulless AC44s that spiraled into a two day discussion about trains and eventually model railroads, which eventually culminated in me saying "I should get back into that..." and my wife saying "Go for it, I think it might be fun to help!"

I immediately planned how to fill my basement, and then thought better of it.  I have plenty of space: once I clean it out, I have an 8'x12' area that I can fill with a fairly respectable little layout.  But my budget is... well, not really up to that challenge yet.  Not to put too fine a point on it, but I have about $30 a month that I can spend on hobbies - and I'm sure you all know how far that doesn't go!

With this outlook in mind, I happened across Carl Arendt's website and discovered the micro-layout.  I wasn't originally a fan, since I'd prefer to model longer trains moving through scenic environments, rather than a small switching layout. 

But the idea grew on me.  I sometimes have problems finishing projects, and so I decided to make my model railroad large enough to entertain, but small enough to be easily-completed.  I know the same theory holds true for TOMA, which is what I intend to do when I graduate from the learner's classes.

For now, my goal is to run a train by the end of 2018, and deliver a completed layout, something I can be proud to show off, by the end of 2019... while spending less than $600-700 on the whole thing.  I already have a bit of HO scale equipment, so this may not be quite as desperate as it sounds.

Thus I've started work on 'the Smyrna Spur', sized at a very petite 1'x6'.  Smyrna, circa 2005, is a fictional eastern Iowa town served by the Iowa, Chicago, & Eastern Railroad.  On the far side of town from the IC&E mainline is the Smyrna Farmer's Co-op, one of Smyrna's few remaining rail-served industries. 

The Co-op is served by a mile-long spur that runs through the outskirts of town.  Usually, a single locomotive - one of the IC&E's GP40-2s, or perhaps an occasional SD - will move a few cars every week up the spur to the Co-op, dropping empties and retrieving loads, which are dispatched to Gavilon Grain in Dubuque, or to ethanol plants elsewhere in Iowa. 

For a trackplan, I've decided to borrow and mirror Chris Gilbert's New Haston plan.  (See link for details and image.)  A great deal of my inspiration has come from viewing some of Gilbert's other small designs.  It wasn't until I saw a video of his Haston Nomad layout in action that I was convinced I could build such a small layout while retaining a rural feel.

So far, I've constructed most of the benchwork using 1/2" plywood on top of a base made of 1x4s.  My next step is to place a layer of foam before I start tracklaying on some free weekend in July... once I order and receive everything I need.  You can get a view of my work thus far in the photo below; my apologies for the quality.

The layout will operate on DC.  It's not my first choice - I'd really like to get one of those nifty ProtoThrottles, but I'd spend two years worth of my budget just saving up for all of the parts.  For $45, I found a DC-only Athearn GP40-2, currently in Union Pacific colors; I'll modify and repaint it as ICE #4200 City of Kansas City.  I also have an old Athearn blue-box SD40-2 somewhere in my parents' basement (...I hope!) that I'll repaint to ICE colors.

Ultimately, the mediocre lighting valence shown in the picture above will also be fixed, as I'm going to set the layout up with a shadowbox-style fascia and overhead LEDs.  I'm going try to scratchbuild my structures on the cheap using printed cardstock; I'll re-evaluate if that doesn't turn out well. 

Most of my nervousness is reserved for wiring, as I'm unskilled in electrical work of any sort.  I hope that the layout's small size will make wiring less difficult than I expect...

Thoughts, comments, encouragement and (gentle) criticism are welcomed!

Thanks, BCP

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sanchomurphy

Comments from another small time modeler...

It looks like you have a pretty solid plan and I look forward to seeing the execution... Here are my thoughts.

  • Run don't walk and get a DCC system. I use a Raspberry Pi, Pi-Sprog One, my smartphone, and my computer. The first two cost around $175 combined and run with JMRI and Decoder Pro. For this you can use your phone as a wireless controller and program from your computer via WiFi. Once you get familiar with Decoder Pro (which took me a day or two playing with it) it's very easy and is very plug and play once you have it setup.
  • Install a good sound decoder. For an additional $100, you can retrofit your Athearn with a top of the line sound decoder. If you can solder two wires together and use a bastard file, you can take your operations to a whole new level. Having sound in my opinion is the best thing you can do for a layout that small.
  • Do good work on your valence and fascia.
  • Simplify the track plan by eliminating the crossing, the two crossovers to the left (4 turnouts total), and the spur on the upper left. Once you do this, it should look like a four pronged fork. Use that allocated turnout and crossover money for DCC. This new revision will not hinder operations much and will look a lot more realistic. Face your "handle" away from the wall towards the end of the wall where you shot the photo from.
  • Consider adding a removable extension or cassette aligned with the "handle" lead track where you are standing and photographing from. I have this on my layout and it adds an incredible amount of operability by only adding 3' of temp. track.
  • Don't be afraid of wiring and use electrofrogs. Take your time here and do it right. Mostly just avoid sticking a finger or anything inappropriate in your 120V wall outlet.
  • Lastly, before you get too deep, get yourself one or all of these books, you won't regret it. https://lancemindheim.com/book-store/

 

 

 

Great Northern, Northern Pacific, and Burlington Northern 3D Prints and Models
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sean-p-murphy-designs
Reply 0
shortliner

Brock - just a small

Brock - just a small suggestion to make you dither about trackplans     Http://www.rmweb.co.UK/community/index.php?/topic/134803-new-member-and-a-soo-line-switching-shelf/ 

Oh and Chris and I have been mates for 20+ years, despite being about 450 miles apart

Best

Jack aka Shortliner ( you've probably seen my name on Carl Arendt's site)

 

PS - another small layout that would work in your space is Richard Francaviglia's IOTA from many moons ago - see attachmentIOTA1.jpg 

Reply 0
wsor4050

Hey Brock  Glad you like

Hey Brock 

Glad you like it 

some more photos can be seen here 

https://flickr.com/photos/34176719@N04/sets/72157631783696771

Chris

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Good way to get started. I

Good way to get started. I did something similar in my younger years when money for hobbies was restricted. Instead of building a layout I collected equipment for my someday layout. Over the years I built up quite a lot. I like your idea of a small section that you can add to. One plus for this idea is once you get the control system, and some wiring done each new section will get cheaper as you will likely not need a second control system and you should have wire left over. Same with scenery details.

Reply 0
brockpaine

Thanks!

First off, thank you for all of the comments and kind words thus far.

Sanchomurphy, thanks for the suggestions about the cheaper DCC system setup you use. I shall look into it. In the short term, I will probably stick with DC simply because I already own a cheap controller, but I like the idea of DCC and sound enough that I will probably convert the layout over pretty quickly.

Shortliner, I do indeed recognize your name. ...Why do you tempt me with alternate track plans? It's like you know my greatest weakness! That Soo layout looks spectacular, and I must admit I'm seriously tempted... I need to think about this, since I nearly ordered all of my track supplies last night...

Wsor, cheers! I've really enjoyed all your work.

V&LE, thanks for the encouragement. 

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Neil Erickson NeilEr

Great Start

Brock;

I’ll bite and follow along! The micro layouts have a lot of appeal and lend themselves to the chainsaw when the mood strikes and you want to move on. Recently someone posted a cabinet for a layout base that had shelves to accommodate several layouts. Pick your poison, rural, switching urban, narrow gauge, or even a different scale. Food for thought. 

Mine thing I miss about DC were all the published throttle plans that allowed you to build inexpensive blackheads with brakes and adjustable momentum. The new DCC stuff has this too If and when you get bitten by the big. One thing for sure is that once you operate with sound and momentum it is definitely hard to go back to engines without. 

Keep having fun and make sure to engage the misses!

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
joef

+1 for DCC

Brock, I agree with the advice to run, not walk, to DCC with sound. This is most important on a small layout, and especially if you’re only running solo. While those who like DCC tout the easy multi-train capability, that’s not its greatest strength, IMO. The ability to incorporate back EMF and to tune loco performance every way you can imagine is vital to an optimum operating experience on a small layout. Having DCC with sound takes the ops experience to a whole new level on a small layout. And also, if you ever do get more resources, you’ve not boxed yourself in.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

Reply 0
jeffshultz

DCC++

You've apparently already got a computer, and for about one month's modeling budget you can build your own DCC command station (albeit a fairly limited one) - the DCC++.

https://github.com/DccPlusPlus/BaseStation/wiki/What-is-DCC--Plus-Plus

Geoff Bunza and his crew of Elves led about 40 people through building one as part of a hands-on clinic at the PNR Convention earlier this month. I was one of them, and since the software is already written, it was a case of plugging two boards together, adding a couple wires, and uploading the software to them. Pretty amazing, actually.

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Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 0
Michael Mainridge MMainridge

You don't need DCC

I agree that DCC can add to the user experience.  I use a DCC system and sound decoders.  However, you can build a layout and switch cars without it.  I enjoyed model railroading for decades without it.

All of us, but especially someone on a tight budget, needs to prioritize what will provide the most enjoyment.   

If you like building layouts, scenery, buildings, or detailing equipment more than operating, then investing time and money on DCC may not be the best use of your resources.  You can always add DCC later. 

If a realistic operating experience is more important, then invest in a DCC system with sound decoders in your loco(s).  It can take some time to learn and understand how DCC works and how to configure the settings on each decoder. 

Whatever you choose, have fun!

Michael Mainridge​

-logo(1).png   Murphy Branch - North Carolina 2013

Reply 0
brockpaine

Keep having fun and make sure

Quote:

Keep having fun and make sure to engage the misses!

That's the idea!  She's not been terribly interested in building the benchwork, but she's expressed an interest in getting her hands on an airbrush for painting.  She's got a good eye for small detail work, so I think she'll probably be pretty good at it.  She also knows how to solder, having worked for several years wiring up robot parts...

Jeff - thanks for the tip on that DCC++ - I've never heard of it before.  I'm watching their YouTube videos to get an idea of how easy it might be for me to accomplish. 

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Reply 0
dssa1051

Richard V's Iota

I e-mailed with Richard Frangaviglia about an article he did in the 3rd Quarter 2017 TMR (MILW Society) magazine based on another end of the line town that being Preston, MN.  I mentioned his Iota plan in RMC that I stumbled on at the same time.  Brock, I'll be watching since I've been thinking about a similar-sized small layout with the MILW.

I'm currently reading Richard's book entitled "Hard Places" which covers mining towns in various regions.  I heartily recommend it for modelers especially those doing narrow gauge or small industrial short lines.

Robert

Reply 0
ctxmf74

  "She's got a good eye for

Quote:

  "She's got a good eye for small detail work, so I think she'll probably be pretty good at it.  She also knows how to solder, having worked for several years wiring up robot parts.."

sounds like you hit the jackpot there. I'd tell her my vision for the scenery then let her create the scene. I'd also give her a book on DCC and a sound decoder and let her upgrade the engines. An NCE power cab or Digitrax Zephyr would be a big chunk of the budget but the cost would be paid back by many years of enhanced operations.....DaveB

Reply 0
dark2star

DC vs. DCC

Hi,

some will disagree with me, but here goes...

If you do your wiring correctly, switching from DC to DCC at a later point in time will not be an issue. Just unhook your DC power pack and add the DCC command station, also add the decoders... Hey, you can even run a DC loco on a DCC layout (even if that might not be desirable).

The point is, do your wiring right. I did wire a DC layout with multiple blocks (good) and put in enough feeders (good) but I skipped putting gaps in both rails (bad). This is the only error so far that I really made.

There are plenty of "wiring for DCC" guides, most of which will work nicely with a DC layout.

Anyway, I like your plan of "start small" - it works for me, too.

Have fun!

Reply 0
RicharH

Great plan you have made

I well understand your financial restraints. I am coming to the end of a work career and am planning and saving for retirement. $500 a month is not a viable discretionary expense. Maybe not $500 a year. I have always loved railroads and models but never had the extra time until recently. I am building a small layout based on the Iota railroad that was sent to you. It is certainly quite operable with plenty of scenery to occupy when not operating. I am using leftover equipment from myself and my brother, who is deceased and bequeathed his to me. 

Money thing you might consider is going the DC route and if you wish later, adding a Bluetooth board for DCC type operation. Bachmann has an E-Z APP for your smartphone or tablet that works with their E-Z App steam or diesel locomotives. They are a little dated for your era but the GP35 should be okay. Blue rail designed the board and app for Bachmann and started selling independently. Monocacy trains also offers a board for do it yourself. Bluerail seems moribund, but Monocacy still offers boards on their website for $39 each, $99 for multiples of 3. I haven’t tried them but I intend to if they stay around.

Reply 0
rrfaniowa

This is great

Hi Brock,

I love the theme of your micro layout (rural IC&E) and the fact that you picked a Chris Gilbert track plan. 

This is going to be a fun layout to watch. Please be sure to keep us updated with lots of pictures and comments!

Scott Thornton

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Reply 0
Benny

...

For a one engine layout, DC will be just fine.

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Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

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