fezzic181

Designing my first Free-mo module that will also be used as my home layout. Looking for thoughts anyone has on the track plan. There will be tail tracks for the main line at either end of the module when operated at home.

HO

Equipment SW1200, SD40T-3, F7ABBA, 55' coal hoppers, 65' plastic pellet hoppers, 50' and 40' boxcars, 65' gons and coil gons, propane tank

Track is fastrack #6 and micro engineering

Seems I didn't label that one spur in the engine terminal area. This will be a caboose track.

 

ble_2.jpg 

Edit: Change Post title to reflect length change in newer design.

Mark

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Richard Johnston

Alignment?

fezzic181 ? ,

Have you considered how you are going to reliably archive alignment at the six points you cross from one section to another? The top-right of the left-hand section appears to have a turnout ending very close to the section boundary. Two tracks down seems to be the same situation for the right-hand section. I have found that the frequent addition and removal of fitter-rails (if that's what you'll use) is not kind to turnouts. In addition have you considered how these sections will be transported? Size, weight, and durability are factors you'll want to balance. 

By the way, we like to sign our posts with a name so that we "know" who we are "talking" to.

Dick

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fezzic181

As far as size and transport

As far as size and transport they are fine. I have a 6x2 that just has a straight track down the middle. I can move it around no problem.

I do see your point in how close some of the turnout ends are to the joint. I should be able to shuffle the EMSCO's siding to the right to get the turnout farther back.

To keep the Steele plants scrap track from crossing the joint maybe I could extend the overhead crane out over an exterior track siding that parallels the coil loading spot.

I feel like the engine service area is just to busy in the space. I'm thinking maybe just setup some other industry in that area. Perhaps I'll save that for when I build a module that's an interchange.

Mark

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Greg Baker Mountaingoatgreg

Free-mo Standards

If you plan on building a true Free-mo module I would again review the standards. The mainline turnouts need to be #8 and you need to have track no closer than 4" from the edge. I would look to figure out why a you really want to incorporate and keep that. It seems to be you are trying to cram as much track in as possible and not leaving breathing room for scenery and structures. 

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fezzic181

Revisions

Went ahead and revised the idea. Swapped out the #6 with #8 for the two main passing siding turnouts.

ble_2_0.jpg 

Mark

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City of Salina

Revisions

@Mark

Hope your design efforts go well.  

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fezzic181

I have 42 set in Anyrail to

I have 42 set in Anyrail to warn me if curves are to sharp. I tweeked the siding curves just a bit so they are 42. The spurs are sharper but they are spurs.

In the new picture the two sections are 73 7/8". I have two built with 3/4 ply where the end plates are 24 wide attached to the 72" side rails.

Mark

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Virginian and Lake Erie

One of the n scale modular

One of the n scale modular guys, M.C. Fujiwara, did a modular yard on here and had several connections across joints. Granted he is very skilled, but it can be done.

Here is a link to one of his entries and you can look at more should you desire.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/25540

 

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twofootdrive

Alignment of track across a joint in the bench work

The best way that I have found is to use alignment pins and bolts to keep the endplates aligned when setting up.  If you use but joints on the rails that go across the joint you eliminate the fitter rails and you will have a quicker set up time than trying to align multiple tracks in the middle of your module.  I have a 3 section 21 foot long module with but joints and alignment pins that goes together very quickly.  Most of the times it is among the last module to be installed and we are running trains on it moments later.  My alignment pins are 3/4" wood dowels slightly tapered and I have clamps that bring it all together.  It has been this way for 3 years now,  attending Cleaveland NTS, Amherst twice, NJ, VA and MD and I have a mix of #6 on the main travel routes and #4's on the tight switching portion.

Now as for being told that Free-mo requires # 8 turnouts: from the standard...

S3.8 Turnouts shall be at least #6.

RP3.8.1Turnouts on the module through route should be #8 or larger.

were as "S" is standard and "RP" is Recommended Practice.

Dan

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Richard Johnston

But-joints

Dan,

My experience with but-joints was similar to yours, but (no pun) I suffered frequent "rippers" during transport and setup. That is the rails got pulled away from the ties and the track had to be replaced. Did you have this problem, and if you did, how did you avoid it?

Dick

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twofootdrive

"Rippers"

I  soldered the rails to small brass screws 1 inch #6  and filed the sides of the screws to the edge of the rails.  Of course you could use a dremel tool but it cuts too fast and could damage the rail.  The modules are stored in a large box nicknamed "The Coffin" the modules stay in the box all year long with from temps around single digits to over 100 deg F.   Occasionally some one will assist me and catch the end of the rails and I have to bend the end of the rail back into place. So far nobody has manage to damage anything beyond the brass screw.

Dan

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Graeme Nitz OKGraeme

Butt-Joints But...

...On the exhibition layouts that I have been involved with building for the Australian Model Railroad association Victorian Branch. We would lay the track across the joint with the first 3 ties on each side of the joint removed and screw a piece of PCB 1/2" wide to the end plate and long enough to span all the tracks crossing the join. Solder the rail to this, te use tour dremel to cut the rails and once ballasted it virtually disappeared. We did this with up to 13 tracks (Staging yard) and it held up to dozens of moves. Just remember to cut the PCB Between the rails and also between the rails of adjacent tracks (ask me how I know)! after the modules are separated file the inside of the railhead on an angle just to get rid of the square end so the flanges don't catch.

As for ripping the track in transit we had protector plates made from masonite which were screwed to the endplates of every module.

The big layout we built was US prototype called wills street and had about 45 tracks crossing the joins on the 10 sections of layout. Never had any problems. I think I have some pix somewhere I will see if I can find them to post.

Graeme Nitz

An Aussie living in Owasso OK

K NO W Trains

K NO W Fun

 

There are 10 types of people in this world,

Those that understand Binary and those that Don't!

Reply 0
Greg Baker Mountaingoatgreg

Butt-Joints

I have used this product from BNM hobbies that are designed for the purpose of creating consistent and also good looking butt-joints. They are not supper cheap but they work as advertised.

http://www.bnm-hobbies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_21&products_id=211

As for the #8 on the mainline yes it is a an RP but for very good reason. If you can use them, why not?

Also some groups have #8 for the mainline as their standard, not sure if you are near a specific group as they may have other requirements or recommended practices.

 

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