stevie

So I have a train room, 13 by 10 and there is a good chance I will knock the one wall down and make it part of a 13 by 40 railroad room. The other side of the basement will be the lounge area as the kids still use it and so will us modelers. I am going to install a deep sink and paint booth also. Just makes it easy to have everything in the same room.

Last weekend the kids came over and we filled a truckload for the dump and a truckload for Goodwill. Now I have room to move around a bit and the first project is patching all the old picture holes and accidents in the walls. Also some lighting issues to fix and lots of painting. I am doing the lounge area first since that is about empty. Once I get it put together I will start on the railroad room.

I did a bit of research on commercial painting basement cement floors. They never use acid, the consensus is the best way to prep the floor is a grinder. Home depot rents floor polishers and the diamond grinding wheels and it can be done wet or dry. Most floor painting jobs fail due to lack of prep work. Grinding will remove any old paint and whatever else has spilled over the years and the paint will stick just fine afterwards.

So layout construction has again stopped due to the need to get these other projects done. And that is okay cause I still haven't settled on the overall layout plan. That is proving a bit difficult.

My Blog

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/46734

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Greg Baker Mountaingoatgreg

First Steps

At least you are going about it with a level head. Many people would slap in some benchwork and end up having to take it out to fix the floor or other remodeling issue since they did not plan ahead.

If you really find the urge to build things and get bogged down in remodeling maybe build a module or two that could be incorporated into the final layout. They are a great way to practice skills, try new things and keep modeling while other projects are going on.

Keep us posted as your grind forward!!

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Mac

Getting There

You and "Mountain Goat" Greg are quite right to start with the room preparation.  I write this as one who thought what I had was quite adequate until I discovered it wasn't.   I later built an entire new layout in a clean and comfortable space and haven't regretted it.  A bonus is that you may find that benchwork, trackwork, and scenery go much faster and easier in a properly prepared space.  As for a trackplan, consider letting form follow function, that is, decide what you want to model then decide how you are going to do it.

Enjoy,

Mac 

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stevie

Thanks guys, yeah, you are so

Thanks guys, yeah, you are so right! Room prep is a very important first step. And in my case, I need really good lighting as my eyes are a little bit tired. I am going to use Hydrocal, (Fix it all) to fill the floor cracks. I only recently learned that Fix it All is Hydrocal. I used to buy Hydrocal from US Gypsum but don't need 100 pound bags  anymore. Foam and cardboard lattice doesn't take much plaster or hydrocal. 

 Getting the lounge done will give the kids back their play room while dad makes a mess of his playroom. When I say kids, I mean young men in their 20's who are computer nerds and play video games on the big screen.

As far as the urge to build, I still have the trainroom shelf modules to work on. Those will eventually be moved but are fine where they are for now. I have several sheets of 1/8 masonite in the garage left over so I might as well round out the corners while I am at it. It is almost impossible to do when the benchwork is in place.  I tried once.

My concept is as always a bridge route leasing track rights to multiple railroads while supporting local industries and interchanges along the line. Still struggling with the idea of stacked staging yards as turning trains becomes a difficult problem without encroaching on the weight room area. I am going to play with multiple ideas until I come up with a workable solution. One possibility is run around tracks and a wye to turn just the engines, Something we could do between sessions. Its actually a good problem to have.

 

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Mark Nieting

Floor

Great to prep it all now: walls, lighting, electrical circuits, ceiling if you can and floors. You might consider some type of I/o carpet with rubber padding because cement will KILL your feet. Or at least seal it, as you discussed, and later use the 2x2 locking squares of foam. Your operating crew will bless your feet!

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northpine

Flooring

Hi Stevie After doing some research, I finally decided to not attempt the grinding and painting and went with "Drycore interlocking panels" available at Home Depot. They have a plastic egg crate stapled to bottom of T & G 24 x 24" sheathing panels which allows air and any moisture to dissapate. One can add finish flooring or paint the panels which is what we are doing. They have made a huge difference in comfort and as Mark suggested eliminates the cold hard concrete contact and are easy to install in less than a day. Next comes the ceiling and we can start bench work. After everything in storage for 18 years, sure looking forward to a layout..as mentioned, I've kept the interest up by kit bashing, converting power to DCC and painting, etc. Of course being inspired by MRH and the sharing of other .... make it fun! Cheers, Mike

Cheers, Mike

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stevie

Northpine, I looked at the

Northpine, I looked at the 2by2 floor panels. It is still a possibility but my problem is the basement floor total area is over 1500 sq ft. If I leave one area not paneled I can see myself tripping over it often. Even though it is less than an inch high, those are the worst. So my options are all of it or none of it. And all of it will cost over a few grand as I think I need about 400 of them. I am thinking it would be cheaper to carpet the walkways. What is under our feet is another overlooked aspect. Concrete is always cold. And no give at all. My son put tile down in his weight training area so I would have to take that up or have another trip hazard.

I went to a 4th division meeting and if the average age at that meeting is typical, I need to be very concerned with trip hazards. Guys older than me!  Some of the guys I met use canes. And my basement could also be wheelchair accessible with a little concrete poured. I can still move just fine but I am almost daily around people who are not quite so mobile.  

  I am going to the extreme and this spring I am going to put in pavers from the driveway to the doors. Again, to remove trip and slip hazards. Might have to pour some concrete walkway also. My front porch is also on the to do list this spring. Its old and slippery. And the steps are weak. New deck, steps and handrails. Handrails and non skid is really appreciated when we get later in our years. The body just doesn't heal so fast anymore.

 I plan to have other modelers over on a regular basis so all of these things need to be taken into account. I will have the stairwell and lounge area fully carpeted. Fortunately my basement is always dry as I made sure of that during construction.

 

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Virginian and Lake Erie

Stevie, I believe there are

Stevie, I believe there are transition tiles that can be placed at the edges of the area you cover. They act much like any transition in your house where one goes from wood to tile or carpet. Another common place to see a slight transition is in thresholds in door ways. One of the guys used carpet squares that were 2 feet square I think. There are lots of options you will just need to find one that works for you.

Reply 0
Jackh

Electrical Work

If you want to add more electrical outlets it can be done without tearing up the walls. There is a system available that you can attach to the room side of a wall. Outlet boxes and channels to put the wiring in. Take a look in the home improvement stores. Cost is fairly cheap and it can be tied in to an existing outlet. I used it in our old basement train room.

Jack

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stevie

As far as electrical, I think

As far as electrical, I think I will be fine for outlets. If I tear down the wall, I will have to do some rewiring anyway so maybe add a few while I am at it. The layout room is almost completely open to the lounge area. I plan to hang curtains to keep the dust down.

If I tiled one side, I would have about 26 feet of transition (trip hazard). Much easier to lay some carpet. I have thought about completely enclosing the layout room but that means a lot of construction and I think it actually limits what I can do as far as transgressing into the lounge a little bit.

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dkaustin

Take a look at the discussion.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/23459

Use the search feature in the upper right.  There are more discussions on flooring.

Den

 

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     Dennis Austin located in NW Louisiana


 

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