What about a modular layout?

What about a modular layout?  That way you can break it dow, pack it into crates and move it as needed.  If you build it on 4 or 6 ft module frames you could adapt it to whatever space you get as you move.  Thats what Id do.

Steve I will suggest

Steve I will suggest something sectional rather than modular. Modular to me means universally interchangeable. common ends that can be assembled in any order.

The layout you see above fills a space around 26 feet wide by 55 feet approximately. It is our club's layout and was built in sections so if we had to move it could be taken apart and moved. It was not designed to be easy to do this just possible. My club has moved several times in the last 30 plus years and with this layout they decided to make it a little easier to get it out of the building.

Now you sound like you are at an earlier part of the path I took years ago. I would suggest that you design some features you will likely be able to use in your ultimate layout and build them keeping in mind that you will likely need to relocate as you stated and you may need to store them. You will also likely need to be able to get them out of your present space and into the next one. I would suggest your sections be 6 feet long or shorter, no more than 30 inches deep and no taller than 26 maybe 28 inches. In that fashion they could likely go down any stair and or hallways you might encounter in your future. By building a section or two of your dream you will have something that might only need an update later on instead of replacement. I wish that was what I had done years ago.

Best of luck.

Modular but not too big

I would design a modular layout that can be moved if necessary.

 Also, "don't bite off more than you can chew".   Build the layout to the size you can manage not the size of the room.

Joe

Please elaborate

Steve:

I agree with Rob regarding a modular approach and Joe's thoughts on the "not so big layout" (to steal from a popular architectural philosophy) but think we put to much emphasis on "final" layouts. Even retirement will not guarantee that your vision of the ultimate layout is "the one". In fact, I've seen on these pages many layouts that are really the first dream layout that has no experience behind operations or design - doomed? Probably not but there is a wealth of experience here that can, and does, get folks who listen off and running. 

The other thing to consider is that a sectional or modular layout will give you the opportunity to experiment. Build one or two representing scenes that provide some switching to do and add some staging at one or both ends. The staging can be moved as additional sections are added. If later you find that a section isn't up to snuff or you learn more about your prototype - scrap it! Save track, switches, buildings and accessories and move on. 

Focus is part of success. What is your interest? Do you collect everything that catches your eye or have a plan? Are you a railfan as well and enjoy the long trains snaking through big scenes or like the peddler and switching while staying out of the main when the hotshots run by? 

Read. Check out what others are doing and ask them questions. Read their blogs and write down what you like - and don't. Research alone can become a hobby.

Build. A model rail hobbyist builds models and railroads. The more you build the better you get. That goes for shake the box kits, laser cut buildings, modules, trees, bridges, etc. there is so much you can get out actually building. By building one section at a time you will find that the next five years will pass quickly and you will have a huge advantage when you find the time and space to pursue this hobby.

ok. That was more than two cents - sorry. Please share your thoughts. 

Neil

A thought

I had thought about doing the place I would play when I visited my grandparents as it is also something that I would want in my permanent layout.  The GTW yard in Harvey, IL.  I would not have the IC tracks as they would take up too much real estate that I do not have, but I could interchange with it in some other way.  Another thought and I don't have a good plan for it, other than a USGS topo map, would be Valparaiso, IN.  These could both be sectional/modular and could use them  down the road.

Steve

Go Modular / Sectional

I agree with the above posters that you could start building (parts of) your dream layout in distinct "dioramic" pieces, all based on the available space you have now and anticipate having later.

The decision sectional or modular all depends on the amount of space that you have now and think you'll have in the future. It also depends on your final plan and how much you'd want to be constrained in scenery. I think sectional is the way to go if your scenery to be cohesive and complex (like the layout Rob in Texas showed above): it allows you to go from section to section without regards of needing the tracks to traverse at certain set spots, and scenery doesn't have to adhere to a certain "end-plate" profile. Sectional typically goes together in one specific way only, while with a modular concept (Like Free-mo), you'll limit yourself on where you can cross tracks on an end-plate, how wide the end-plate is and what the scenery elevation is at the end-plate. So while limiting on the end-plate level, the advantages you gain with building modular are: 1) you can more easily add a new module in between 2 existing modules and adapt to a new space (smaller, larger, go around corner, different overall shape etc) than a sectional layout (for sectional this frequently/typically  means changing scenery on existing sections), 2) you'll have the option/ability (if you want/desire) to display and operate on your modules at a modular gathering with others following the same standard. This would allow you and others to run trains on your modules you'd otherwise might not be able to run at home, shake out potential track/electrical issues on your module and of course, inspire others to build their own rail road empire (modular, sectional, 4x8, doesn't matter) and (re)enter this great hobby.

1953

To answer one question, I have had the summer of 1953 in my head for years.  Steam is still king on the GTW, the GP-9's that would kill it are still a year away. I have always wanted to honor my grandpa who retired from the GTW in 1968 and would take his very young grandson around to work with him and thus my very strong feelings for the Grand Trunk Western.  With that in mind I have been purchasing cars and engines that are from that era.

In the future I would like to be able to have the fast steam powered freights that tore across the flatlands of Michigan, but that is not for here.  This one will have to be much smaller and I will use it as a tool to hone my skills. The GTW U-3-b 4-8-4's that I have will have to wait for another house and another layout.

Steve

Harvey

Steve: What a great concept! The interchange with IC & B&O would provide hours of making and breaking trains while allowing long freights and passenger trains to run by. Some staging would be an awesome addition to this and let you run those big engines alongside the 0-6-0, 0-8-0's, and 0-8-2 switchers. I was particularly taken with this very photogenic model:

Didn't Jimmy Stuart make Harvey famous?

Neil

I have to agree with the guys about modular/sectional as....

I have to agree with the guys about building both modular and sectional, especially if you're planning to move down the road. I built my past layouts in sections, usually 2' x 8' and bolt them together. I used 1/2" plywood on top along with cork. When I relocated the layout, or expanded it, the only waste I had was the plywood top and the cork. Not a lot in terms of dollars as there wasn't a lot of track on each section. From there I was able to expand and those sections are in current use today. My frames are 1"x4" and the upper level are 1"X3". 

We all have visions of grandeur. You can build small and always expand when you can. 

Enjoy and have fun.

Neal

Here is my suggestion based

Here is my suggestion based on you needing to move ever few years.

Start by laying out some basic benchmark shapes.  The reality is there are a lot fewer bench work shapes for a given space then layout designs.

Start by locating  spot to put a loop on either end.  Depending on what you want to run that will take up 4 to 8 foot diameter each.  That is going to be the major restriction in you design.  I would also locate a nice space to build a work bench/desk.

Given my choices I would locate it off to on side were I couldsomeday locate a branch above the desk if I ever get that far.

Now once I have this worked out I would fill in the space in between the loops with 2' x 6' modules.  I know 8' is more standard but sometimes anything over 6' can become hard to get into your next layout room.

Once you have this in your head or down on paper I would build the work bench.

If at that point you still are not sure what to do I would start building sections and installing the.  I would use plywood frame as it is tough enough to survive a move.  I would put cheep 1/4" plywood on top of the sections.  That way if you change your mind on the next layout you can pull the plywood off the frame and reuse the frame.

Note I have said nothing about the track plan.  Hopefully buy the time the sections are finished you will know what you want to do.  I would use the Layout Design Elements idea and pick one element taking up one to three sections and make that really nice. I would just get some track running on the breast of the sections and I would make the return loops and any staging tracks on open grid because big loops are to hard to move and odds on won't fit in the new space.  I would also do the same for corners unless your LDE needs a corner.  Corners never seam to work from one space to the next.  And there is,no point in spending time and money you don't need to on areas that will be pitched when you move.

Once you have one LDE close to finished if you have time you can rebuild the track on some more sections to build another LDE.

But in the meantime you will have started construction while you are thinking about what you want to do. No matter what you come up with most of the benchwork is the same.  And if you need to change the bench work you can pull out a section and build another.

I would also suggest that you put a master power toggle on each section for track power.  This helps in finding shorts and it keeps all the wires for a section self contained for when you have to move.  This toggle can be hidden under the Layout as you won't use it much.

When wiring the Layout you run bus from one terminal strip one one section to another terminal strip on another section. With the toggle coming off that and going from the toggle to the Layout.

You can pre,wire this bus before you have the track figured out if you get that far with out a track plan

When you move you protect the LDE and any other sections you will reuse as is and you strip the rest back to plywood or down to the frame and just reuse the farm at the new house.

If this sounds like I may have done this... well I moved from my apartment to condo to a house and the three apartment sections are reused in the house after stripping them to framework.  Several sceniced sections from the condo are used as is in the house..

-Doug M

Just start

Steve All the above are great advice.I would only add. Get started.  Worst case you may not save everything, but as said you will be learning as you go. I  agree that I would build sectional vs modular,since I doubt you would assemble it differently on the next layout, at least probably not by choice.  I had to tear down my old layout, but was able to save a lot of sections or dioramas. See photos.These are only two of a dozen I saved.   

My O-18-b

Here is my 0-18-b. All ready to work with no track to run on.

Steve

Was there a saying that track

Was there a saying that track is cheap or was that something different?

We have a saying in Texas, never ask a man where he is from if he is from Texas he will tell you if not don't embarrass him.

O-18-b

Nice model. Have you thought of laying your own track? I find it very satisfying and end up with nice flowing curves & switches. Yes, it takes some time but not a lot of money. If you don't like what you did, rip it out. 

The other easy, and relatively cheap project is to DCC and add sound to your locos. One with sound (I know this will open a can of worms) is worth it!

It is fun to see your babies run and do some work - gotta earn their keep

Neil

Moving forward

This is just the first step for me and I do want to thank everyone for their suggestions. It has given me a lot to think about and go forward from here.

Steve

Brackets

Ray,

I like the brackets that you used in the bottom photo. Where did you get those?

Steve

5 year plan?

   That space sounds plenty big enough to build something that would keep you interested and increase your modeling skills over the next  5 years.  Personally I'd build sections that could be re-used and link them around the walls on shelf brackets. I'd choose scenes that could fit in with a future "retirement" layout or could be sold if your future plans change. There have been some recent threads on modular or sectional layouts so a search will find lots of interesting discussion. The thing I like about an around the walls plan is it leaves the center of a room open for other uses while maximizing the curve radius for more realistic reliable running. Starting with one module with staging attached to both ends allows  operations to begin right away then as more sections are built the staging can be re-attached to the new ends and operations expanded. Once the whole room has been circled one then has optional continuous running along with point to point from staging to staging( the two staging yards merged into one double ended yard  or town scene). The around the room route doesn't need a lot of complicated track work to operate realistically, just some passing siding and industrial spurs will do. Each module or section can be as detailed as you'd like to spend the time on it. Some could be keepers and some could be fillers or throw aways to be replaced on the future "retirement" layout.  5 years of building stuff will at the least make you a more experienced modelers and better able to build that big dream layout, or it might make you change your mind about the size and complexity you need? ......DaveB

brackets

Thanks Steve

Home Depot

 My son got me to use them. They are great and quite strong. Beautiful loco,just needs a layout LOL  I am 74 and just started a new layout. You may have more time till your move than I do LOL

                                                                                                                                   Ray   

You know this will be in the magazine soon?

There is a contest with the entry due date 40 days from now for modular or sectional layout. My entry that I'm working on has future portability as part of it's design element. You might want to enter it. Or at least when MRH announces the winners be sure to read those entries/articles.

Thanks

Matt,

I'll have to keep an eye out for that.  

Thanks,

Steve

Those brackets...

Steve, 

I bought those exact same brackets at Home Depot.  They come in a variey of sizes and are heavy duty.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-x-16-in-White-Heavy-Duty-Shelf-Bracket-14835/202824731

Neal

Taxes versus Texas

Modular or Rolling Stock

Hi U-3-b,

You could concentrate on building and weathering rolling stock and use a local club to run your trains until you settle on a permanent location. 

But if you've got the urge to build, go modular.  

2' x 6' modules, with removable legs and weighing no more than 75 lbs each will allow you to navigate stairs and doorways.  Use foam for your scenery base and avoid large amounts of plaster to keep the weight down. 

Once you settle, you can build more flowing track sections to connect the modules you built.

I would suggest that you

I would suggest that you enter the current MRH contest, and build a module/section with a couple of "fiddle yards" (as the Brits would cal them) at each end.  Make the pieces of a convenient size to move in and out of the room above the garage.  

Pick a scene from your "dream layout" to build.  After that first section is done, build another section & so on.  I would avoid trying to build any really large sections that would be difficult to move.  Save the monster sections for when you retire and move into your retirement home.

Use folding legs that can be found at Home Depot or Lowes so that for your move the sections can be folded up like a table and carried out.  If you make 2 or more sections in even numbers, you can pack any structures, trees etc. in boxes and bolt the sections together scenery side to scenery side with suitable length 1x2 lumber to make a box that protects the scenery in transet.