traintalk

I thought I would share my progress of installing the small SMD LEDs lights in my PBL Sn3 K-36 steam engine.

In the front of the engine I have 5 of the LEDs threaded. One goes into the headlight, two go into the classification lights (one on either side of the headlight) and two into the number boards (one of either side of the stack). 

Another LED goes into the ash pan to represent the firebox light. The tender gets its own back up light.

I am going to use the Econami decoder because it is small enough to fit inside the boiler. The white wire from the decoder will control the headlight, the yellow wire will control the backup light, brown wire will control the classification and number board lights and the green wire will control the firebox light.

The LEDs are a little to bright, so I will dim them down with 3.3K resisters and tint the LEDs with a drop of Tamiya clear orange acrylic paint (this gives off a yellowish/orange tint).

Attached is a picture of my madness with LEDs threaded into their positions. Those tiny yellow globs are the LEDs waiting to be tinted and go into their final position. It takes quite a bit of patience to thread these tiny wires through tiny holes.

More to come...

-Bill B.

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traintalk

This is how I test the SMD LEDs

This is how I test the SMD LEDs, I used a 9 Volt battery with wires connected to small clamps. I build a small jig with two different resistors to test how bright I want the LEDs to be.

--Bill B.

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traintalk

This is the size of the Econami decoder

This is the size of the Econami decoder. They are getting smaller and smaller. I can now fit it into the boiler behind the weight.

--Bill B.

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Greg Williams GregW66

Source

Where do you get the LEDs?

Greg Williams
Superintendent - Eastern Canada Division - NMRA
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traintalk

You can get the LEDs

@GregW66. I get the SMD LEDs from a local hobby store, RailMaster Hobbies. You can also get them from eBay, search on "SMD LED 0603" in Toys and Hobbies. I sort on bright white, and then I tint them to the color I like, but they come in other colors.

--Bill B.

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Neil Erickson NeilEr

Fantastic

i look forward to seeing this in action. 

 

Neil  

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

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modelsof1900

I good looking start with

I good looking start with your LED lighting.
Maybe you should reflect to use smaller LEDs for classification lights and number boards like 0402 or 0401. These sizes are these which I prefer to use. And if you find a dealer then try to receive pre-wired LEDs of this small size. This will give you a faster success.

My preferred LED dealer is LED Baron. He sends also to USA.

________________________________________________________________________

Cheers, Bernd

My website http://www.us-modelsof1900.de - my MRH blog http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/20899

and on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/bernd.schroter.566 where I write about all my new projects.

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traintalk

classification lights and number boards

Hi @modelsof1900

Yes, I normally use the 0402 for the classification lights and number boards, but I only had 0603. I have the 0402 on order, but I got inpatient. I think I am going to wait for the 0402. Yes I order the pre-wired, my eyes are not good enough to solder the magnet wires on.

I know I can order on the internet, but I try to support my LHS, even with the little things.

Bill B.  

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traintalk

A little bit of progress on

A little bit of progress on my DCC install after the Christmas break. I have threaded the SMD LEDs into their sockets and test lit them. I use a 9v battery and 3.3K-Ohn resistor to power the LEDs. 

A FL4 function only decoder will go into the smokebox and will control the headlight, classification lights, number board lights, and firebox lights. I have decided to use a WOW decoder in the tender, it will control the motor, sound and backup light.

I ran a test of the LEDs to make sure that they are working. I used a 9v battery and 3.3K-Ohm resistor to test.

--Bill B.

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Greg Baker Mountaingoatgreg

I just started with LED...


...but this is the reason I got started to do things like this. I really appreciate you sowing off some of your tips and tricks to the rest of us. Please keep us posted on your progress!

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traintalk

Liquid Tape

The SMD LEDs that I use have 6" magnet wires. These wires have a thin lacquer coating that can easily be scraped off as it rubs up against the brass. All of a sudden you will have a short that is hard to find. To help avoid this I coat the wires with Liquid Tape. Liquid tape is a black goop that electricians use to insulate wire connections. I use a toothpick to gently coat the magnet wires with a very thin coat.

If you look closely you will see the black coating on the wires behind the LEDs.

--bill b.

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traintalk

Just a little bit of progress

Just a little bit of progress installing DCC in my brass K-36. Even though the SMD LEDs 0603 are small, 0.06mm x 0.03mm, they were just a little bit too big for the classification lights.

I had an order in for the 0402 LEDs and they arrived in the mail. I removed the 0603 and saved them for another project and threaded the 0402.

To protect the 0402 from shorting out against the brass, I applied a thin layer of Aleene's Clear Tacky Glue and allowed to dry. I then tinted the 0402 with a drop of Tamiya Clear Orange acrylic paint.

Attached is a picture of my progress. It looks like a bad hair day with all these wires all over the place, but next comes the basket weaving of the LED wires and attaching resistors and make everything nice and neat. I glue a short piece of Fast Tracks PC board tie to the inside of the boiler. I use the tie to solder the ends of the magnet wires and the resisters. Kind of like making a mini manifold.

--Bill B.

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traintalk

Programming the Decoder

I found a little extra time to get back to installing a decoder in my brass 2-8-2.

I have all the 0402 SMD LEDs threaded. So now is the time to program the decoder. I like to set up the decoder and test everything before the decoder gets installed.

I built a board with a NCE 5 amp setup, circuit protection and Sountraxx booster to program Tsunami's.

I also bought a few bags of Radio Shack small copper clips. I soldered some of the clips to some Fast Tracks ties. I connected an old motor to give the decoder something to respond to and another set of clips for the speaker. 

I have JMRI on my laptop and I have a cable that connects to the NCE programming connection.

Then I connect everything to the decoder and fire up the system. I have a standard setup saved in JMRI that I push to the decoder. Then I set the engine number to 483.

I can then customize the sounds, whistle, chuff, bell, etc. because I have the speaker attached to the decoder.

I also go around the engine and test the SMD LEDs

Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

--Bill B.

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