I use the Decalpro system for that

The Decalpro system:

http://pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/Vertical/1_MENU/1c_How_It_Works/How_It_Works.html

Uses white, or coloured, foils that adhere to the toner of a laser print ot photocopy. You can use this system to make actual decals, or dry transfers too.

For lettering on windows I print my artwork on clear transparency film and then, using a laminator, adhere the white foil onto the toner. I use the clear film for my windows. Technically the white is on the outside of the window, normally the lettering is painted backwards on the interior of the building, but you have to look reeeally close to notice.

I'm very happy with the results that I get, plus if you can print it, you can apply it to your window, fast and easy.

If you have access to a laser printer the Decalpro system is not that expensive to get started in, was less than 100 bucks when we bought in, not sure what it's worth now.

Thanks Rick, that looks like

Thanks Rick, that looks like it will fit the bill exactly. Funny thing is I need the signs for a tailor shop also. Vito Dee Taylor's Haberdashery. A play on Vito, the tailor where I grew up. Did you use the laminator they recommend? My wife has one and I wondering if I should try it or just bite the bullet and order theirs along with the system. Bob

Available at

Available at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Decal-Pro-FX-Dry-Transfers-Minutes/dp/B00IPLB66I

Backwards

Print the masters backward and apply 'em to the inside of the windows?

Charlie

Decalpro

Oldiron  -  I'm not sure what laminator they recommend, Also pretty sure that mine is not it. I'm using one a friend of mine bought off Ebay for 99 cents! It seems to work just fine. I don't rush the proccess though. I let the laminator heat up for a good twenty minutes before I run anything through it. Buying a heat gun, however, would be a good idea as the foil tends to stick onto any moisture  that may be clinging onto the surface that the toner has been printed on. A quick once over with a heat gun solves that problem.

Good luck with your haberdashery.

Charlie  -

That won't work, as the toner is printed directly onto the clear film that will become the "window glass" If you print them backwards you will get lovely white lettering on the inside of the building and backwards black lettering on the exterior.

You could make the lettering up as decal and apply them to the inside of the "window glass" but I'm not sure you could make the decal film clear enough to look like glass.

Question ?

 I know I have seen really good, clear, lamination sheets. If you are using a thermal laminator, why could you not use regular dry transfer lettering applied to the inside of the lamination, then seal it inside with the other sheet, then cut it out the size of the window ? Since I have never seen this done, I can only imagine all the things that could go wrong....melted lettering..distorted windows...etc. Would be worth trying just to get some logo's and other things embedded in the " glass". I am sure you guys have tried if you have invested in a laminator ?

Michael

Testors makes some clear

Testors makes some clear material in a liquid form for making windows. They also make dull coat and gloss coat that are often used over decals to seal them in. Why not put the decals on the clear material for the windows and then give them a coat of gloss coat to seal them or two. The other item that might make for a good outer layer would be some of the liquid window stuff they make.

Lamination sheet windows

I've tried to do just that but I found that it was impossible to keep the final lamination perfectly flat. It always seems to have little waves in it, to warped to fit properly into the window frame. There might be a way to do it, heat and weight perhaps, but I've not tackled this.

I'm not familiar with the clear Testor's product, but it might work to seal the decals or to provide a shiny top coat over the white foil lettering. I'm not really bothered by having the lettering on the outside of the "glass" though.