For color and texture

It was mainly for color, less so for texture. However, it does create a mixture that shrinks, which means it tends to crack when it sets up.

I've taken to skipping the cement and just adding some powdered pigment (black) to get a nice gray color for the mix.

I hope to do an article for MRH one of these days that has updates to several of the techniques I show in scenery volumes 4 & 5 (released in 2005 and 2006). Four-five years is long enough that I've added some new refinements.

I think I'll do the same....

Thanks for the scoop, Joe.  I think I'll do the same and just add some black powder paint to the mix to gray it up a bit.  My next mission is to locate a store that sells patching plaster.  Everyone here uses a product called "poly-filla"  which is a patching meduim but it contains wood fibers (cellulose) and I don't think that would work in model scenery applications.  Our local home improvement store carries some products by DAP so I'm going to try and get them to order some actual patching plaster, plus their DAP vinyl spackle, for me.  They currently carry plaster of paris so I'm good there.

And, I eagerly await your scenery technique updates in MRH magazine.

Doug

Local Drywall supply?

If you have a local dry wall supply place you could also check there for supplies.  If you do get drywall stuff I would not recommend anything under 30 minutes working time, probably anything under 60 minutes is going to be a bit too fast.  Another option is to check if you can find Fix-All, I used this about 15 years ago for hardshell scenery (paper towels dipped in soupy Fix-All).

Mike

Fixall

I also have always used Fixall.  It is a non-shrink plaster, so you don't get cracking.

I typically use straight

I typically use straight acrylic paint when I make my plaster, it colors the plaster while it is in a state that is easily manipulated, you color it all at once.  It took me a little experimenting to figure out that in general it is best to use a drop or two or three of black to a squirt of white, or similar mixtures.  Simple make you plaster batch, add a squirt of white or a squirt of brown, mix it up, and add a little more of this color or that until you get the hue you want.  It's really more art and cooking than it is an exact Science, but then this is what Chemistry is all about!!!

Don't use Portland use Plastic Cement

Ok your Portland shrinks so try Plastic Cement it doesn't shrink as it is what Swimming pools are made of.

Use it in the same porportions as in Joes Video It dries a little slower but has better Body and doesnt shrink and most of all it doesn't crack. Plastic Cement has fine fibers in it that help keep it bound together and not shrink and crack.

There are two grades of Plastic Cement

#1 grade is a fine top coat for very smooth surfaces.

#2 grade is has a corser misture of rock and Fiber glass shards.

I suggest you use the topping #1 grade.

Double check the grades and make sure you buy the topping or finish coat mixture I could have the grades reverced.

Also if your making a pond you can make the bottom of the pond with Joes reccomended card board strip weave and then cover it with masking tape. After ward apply a single coat of full strength plastic cement about 3/8" to a 1/2" thick and once it's 100% dry it will hold any liquid you pore in it and it will not leek and most materials don't leach up the sides of the plastic cement.

Dan

What About Hydrocal?

Over the years, I've heard a lot about using Hydrocal as a scenery base.  I see there is no mention of this in the video.  I've heard it doesn't take coloring very well.  Are there other reasons it shouldn't be used? 

Doug

Cost would be a factor.  You

Cost would be a factor.  You can get a lot more of Joe's mix or even Fix-All for similar costs typically.

I have also heard of problems with it being a bit too smooth when it dries, same can be said for Fix-All though.  But this is something that can be easily fixed with a bit of foliage and other scenic stuffs.

Hydrocal is a very strong plaster.

It is also heavy.  On a permanent layout, weight may not be an issue.  If a layout is to be portable, Hydrocal for a scenery base will make it way too heavy to move.  Hydrocal is also expensive.  I'm in charge of a craft program for a local children's summer camp.  We have molds to cast plaques and various other figurines for the children to paint and take home.  We used to use a 50/50 mix of Hydrocal and casting plaster.  We have since switched to Hydrostone without the casting plaster because the Hydrostone is about 3 times stronger than Hydrocal.  I think the price of Hydrocal and Hydrostone is about the same which is $27.00 for a 99# bag.  The casting plaster generally runs about $13.00 for a 100# bag.  For items like tunnel portals, or bridge abutments, Hydrocal is fine.  The extra strength is probably not needed for most scenery base.

Hydrocal is expensive, heavy, and brittle

I personally don't like hydrocal - plaster of paris with retarder or patching plaster works just fine - and is cheaper as well as lighter.

Hydrocal's main claim to fame was with hard shell scenery - which was self-supporting plaster scenery pioneered by Lin Westcott. I find cardboard strips and masking tape is much easier to work with since they're inexpensive commonly available materials that makes it very easy to rough in the terrain contours. I can see exactly what the terrain contours will look like before I start applying the plaster.

I agree...

I agree and that's why I'm going to go with the method shown in the video.  I was just curious about the Hydrocal.  The lighter the better. I'll likely have to go with plaster of paris mixed with a bit of baking powder as it looks like getting actual patching plaster will be very difficult.  I have found a source for the powdered tempera paint so I'm just about set.

Doug

I've used US Gypsum No.1 Casting Plaster

I've used US Gypsum No.1 Casting Plaster mixed 1:1 with vermiculite (by volume). It's strong, doesn't shrink, can be tinted with tempera powders and is available in 25 lb bags from my local pottery supply for a reasonable price. I also use this when I'm carving blasted rock faces.

http://www.gypsumsolutions.com/usage.asp?prod=17

Charlie

Paint tint

I have had great luck using paint tints. I did this after reading about it in the second edition of Dave Frary's scenery book. The tints can be added without adversely affecting set time.

Chris