A better way to lubricate your locos

I've seen some discussion on other threads about loco lubricants, and thought it would be useful to start this thread. I don't use the standard hobby oils because of what a chemist told me. I use Synthetic auto transmission fluid.
The Dexron II is a synthetic oil, which has several advantages over natural refined oil. Here's his comments:
Yes, I use only Dexron II.
I'm a chemist who resurrected my childhood trains about 25 years ago and had to clean every last wheel journal of every car, the bushings of every motor, and the gears of every power truck. I had lubricated them as a kid with light machine oil. It all turned to gum.
As a chemist, I know that refined natural oils have unsaturation that eventually will oxidize. Over time, this produces the gum. Synthetics don't and therefore won't.
I use Dexron II because as a kid I also ran Aurora Thunderjet 500 slot cars and used their Special Racing Oil. Never a problem, even when we used way too much. Later, when I found the slot car set after having spent my teen years working on cars, I found the near-empty bottle of Special Racing Oil. I opened it and immediately recognized the smell - transmission fluid!
Then I got to thinking about why they would use it. It does not conduct electricity, so it is safe around motors. It has a low viscosity that is relatively constant over a broad temperature range, so whether cold or hot, it's viscosity is about the same. It will not gum up, it is compatible with plastics, metals, and paint.
You can wipe it up with a tissue if you get it on the painted surface of your model. If you put too much, it will just sling off, but a film will remain and stay where it is needed. And you can buy a lifetime supply for less than $2.00! What a deal!
I have been using Dexron II exclusively as my only wet lubricant for over 20 years and have never had a problem and have NEVER had to go back and clean up a sticky residue. If I feel there is not enough residual fluid on a bearing surface, I'll add a little more.
I have purchased the Labelle 108 oil for the needle oiler and immediately dumped the full container of oil in my truck's engine and replaced the fluid with Dexron II. I don't use grease, I don't use three different types of (expensive) liquid oils for special purposes, I only use transmission fluid.
Darn clever, if you ask me. Synthetic Auto Transmission Fluid is all I use.
You can go to the auto store and get a single quart bottle. Dexron II is obsolete these days, but just get an Automatic Transmission Fluid that says it's Dexron II compatible and is synthetic. It will cost you more like $10 these days, but not that much more considering a single quart will be a life-time supply.
Just Google: synthetic auto transmission fluid dextron II
Get yourself a Labelle oil bottle like he says and then dump it into your car engine and fill the bottle with synthetic ATF. You'll have a lifetime supply of loco lubricant that will never go bad on you for a few dollars.
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ATF Loco Lube
That's an understatement!
I'm sold on the idea! Thanks for posting this...now I know why that gummy stuff happens!
I Use 100% Synthetic Oil in my truck and both Cars
It never even occurred to me to use it on my trains heck I even use it in my Sears Lawn mower Tractor. Well I'm dumping all my other RR oils in the recycle drum and after I wash them out I use the Dexron II in the Garage I have a case or most of one.
Dan
Rio Grande Dan
Absolutely - clean all the old lubricant first
Absolutely, clean out all the old lubricant first.
I disassemble the loco and gear towers, check for burs and slop around the worm and clean all the parts in 99% Isopropyl alcohol. I then reassemble the mechanism and lube it with the ATF.
If the worm has back and forth slop, it's good to add some thrust washers from Northwest Shortline so the loco won't buck going downhill.
Then it's always good to break it in - run it 30 minutes each direction up on blocks.
Joe Fugate
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine
Warning
This is a great idea; it really maintains/improves mechanical performance, but:
Read the label. As Joe pointed out, it needs to be 100% synthetic. Not all the "synthetic" ATF's at your neighborhood auto supply place are 100% synthetic. If they're not, your plastic components could be toast (or more like "jam").
Don
Rincon Pacific Rwy, 1960. HO scale std. gauge - interchange with SP.
DCC-NCE, CMRI, JMRI
Good advice
Perhaps it would be best to ask a counter person for a jug of 100% synthetic tranny fluid to avoid any possible confusion between types?
The problem with asking a counter person is,
most are totally clueless. The typical counter people at the local auto parts stores here were probably flipping burgers last week before they got the job at the local auto parts chain store this week. They know how to look up your car on their computer IF you haven't done an engine swap to an engine that was not originally available in your vehicle. Your best bet is to read the label carefully on the container before you buy the atf.
Likely true in many cases...
However that's not the case at the Napa Auto Parts I frequent. Two guys have been there nearly longer than Napa has been around and they know their stuff.
I can usually spot the burger flipper a mile away anyway. As you say though in many cases the counter staff know diddly squat. But I wouldn't ask a 16 year old ex-burger flipper, in the first place.
I should have mentioned that NAPA is different.
Unfortunately, I have the typical chain stores around me, while the nearest NAPA is a trip to the freeway and then five miles down the freeway to get off to get to the NAPA store. It isn't real inconvenient unless I'm in a hurry.
Mobil has it on the label
I bought some last week just for this purpose and got Mobil brand. It says fully synthetic on the label in big letters
Steve
http://klamathline.blogspot.com/
That explains it!
lol, well everything is a trip on the highway for me as we are 45 miles from "civilization". A trip to the city is not made much longer by driving past the chain store to get to Napa.