Tim Schwartz tschwartz

As I continue to rebuild my layout to accommodate my GE 85 tonners and give them a place to take their ore to, I had to update my duck under. Now I have seen several different ways to build a duck under, whether a swing or lift system, and I would say what type you build is dependent on the space you have.

I thought about a swing out and drop down hinge system but the geometry of what I needed to integrate new into old would only allow a lift out type. I also decided to move a crossover to the duck under and make a double crossover. This meant the duck under would be wide, about 10 inches.

Using a method I had used successfully for my last duck under I came up with what follows.

Duck_1.jpg 

The duck under is about 3ft long and the angles at the end converge. I use this convergence to my advantage as it becomes a natural stop as you put it into place. The basic frame is made with 1x4 and each end is mitered to give a good fit.

Duck_2.jpg 

The above photo shows a view from the bottom up. The sides are parallel, but at the end, a piece is mitered in to run parallel to the layout. In my case each end is different. The main end is inset by 3/4 inch to allow the locking board to be put in. The locking board is a piece of plywood with a 45 degree bevel. It is also a bit narrower than the width of the duck under or lift out section.

Duck_3.jpg 

The layout edge has a corresponding locking board to allow the lift out to be placed onto it. It was put into position by adjusting the location of the lift out holding it all in place with clamps and then sliding this piece into place and screwing it in. I did not photograph that part so you will have to try and visualize it.

Duck_4.jpg 

 

You insert it by setting it down, which here you can see the small gap, and then you push it in tight. I used wood clamps to lock it in when I was setting up all the track and will continue to do so when I run trains across it.

On the end shown above, I was dealing with a curve, so I chose to solder track to brass screws to keep everything square.

Duck_5.jpg 

On the other end the tracks are straight, so I used little sections of tracks that I can put on and take off. That is how I did my previous lift out section as at both ends the tracks were straight for it. I added all kinds of feeders to the tracks to keep my sound locomotives from stalling, and after a bit of testing and adjustments, everything ran smoothly.

Duck_6.jpg 

So here is a view of the lift out. I picked up a two wire trailer power cord for a few bucks to use to bring power onto the section. Although the setup of the section works very well right now, it will be a while before I find out what the long term issues might be. Normally the section (well the previous one) stays in for a couple of months at a time and the only issue I have had in the past was when some one, usually me, ducked under, but stands up too soon and hits it. 

 

Until Next Time

 

Tim Schwartz

(keeping warm again with the -40 wind chill outside)

 

 

 

 

Tim Schwartz Having fun in HO
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Reply 0
iDrive

Nice job Tim. I'm designing

Nice job Tim.

I'm designing a duck-under for my layout too. It's actually a double one: I have 2 bridges at 2 different heights crossing the aisle that leads me into the layout.

My biggest concern is what you describe in the last lines, and I came up with this solution: handholds. I'm going to place a horizontal metal pipe 1" or 2" below the lowest bridge, it will act as a handhold while I duck-under and if I get up too soon I hit the metal instead of the bridge.

The brass screws are a good idea, we use them on the Fremo modules at my RR club and they work pretty well.

Guido

 

Reply 0
rickwade

Tim, a great job on the

Tim, a great job on the solution. I like the way that you secured the rails using the brass screws to insure alignment.

Rick

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Reply 0
Ghost Train

Along as humdity doesn't

cause warping in the lumber, you're away to the races.  Great idea.

Obviously,a well thought out project.

G. T.

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Nicely done but I have

Nicely done but I have already decided I will not do duck unders for normal access. A roll under or lift section on drawer slides if I had to. If you ever need to rebuild your present system you may want to incorporate locking drawer slides. Think of a drawer and imagine pulling it out by the handel and setting the drawer down with the back not the bottom on the floor. The front would now be the top and the sides would be attached to your layout so it opens up not out. You would not need to build a back or bottom only sides and a front. When you raise the drawer you walk in. When you lower it you run trains.

At present the only thing in my design that would require any gymnastics to get under would be a helix most of which will be accessible from the outside.

I'm not getting any younger and my back gives me enough problems as it is.

Rob in Texas

Reply 0
pierre52

Beware changes in Relative Humidity

Nice job.  However, one of the inescapable facts of life is that changes in relative humidity will cause the timber components to expand and contract. What looks like a zero tolerance gap on one day might become a 2 -3mm gap on another day.  Thus rail meets can become lumpy either vertically or horizontally.

Peter

Peter

The Redwood Sub

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