Newer version

I still have the old HC-1, no reason to upgrade to the HC-2 at this point.  The HC-2 is essentially the same, but with a better battery, more internal storage, and a faster processor.  My HC-1 has not given me any problems.  I have not tried the new smaller power supply (PWR-56) as again, I don't have a need to right now.  I have the PWR-75 and it is more than enough power for what I need at the moment.

I do have a few of the new generation of locomotive modules (LM2-S), and I have to say they are quite nice.  The build quality is noticeably better...not that the LM-1s were bad, but the outer plastic casing was somewhat flimsy.  The new LM2 series is much smaller, more robust construction, more onboard storage, faster processor, 6 outputs (instead of 4), and 2 inputs.  The inputs are unused at the moment, but they can essentially be used for anything from cam synchronization, to flange squeal when the trucks go around the curves, to whatever.  The newer LM2 series is a little easier to install due to the size.  They consist well with LM-1's.  I ran into one issue with an LM2 being paired with an LM1, where the LM2 was in a locomotive with a very low current draw, and the LM1 was in a high-draw loco.  The consist struggled a bit in slow speed, but was fine at running speed.  It has already been addressed with a software update, so no more issues.  

If you're considering trying out the starter kit, I'd say go for it.  You'll never know until you try it yourself.  I've been pleased with the system for the last year I've had it and recommend it to anyone interested in it.  Hopefully this answers some of your questions!  Good luck with your decision!

-Kevin

@ AzBaja

I'm not sure I understand your post.  Are you saying that because I didn't upgrade to the new model of Railpro controller that I won't ever change?  That's kind of silly assumption. I may or may not upgrade, but that is my choice to make and it has nothing to do with not wanting to be on the "bleeding edge".  Are you saying that people shouldn't try out different control systems because DCC is "good enough"? I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but that's what I got from reading your post. While I appreciate your opinions about DCC, it is the OP's and everyone individual choice on what control system they roll with.  Like I said, I'm happy with Railpro and recommend it.  I never said anywhere that DCC was terrible....it's not.  I have no problem with it.  But I prefer Railpro for a variety of reasons, and that's my personal choice.

-Kevin

Delusions

You really don't understand the point, that much is clear.  You just want to pounce on your pre-conceived notions without thinking it through.  He never said he wouldn't upgrade, and in fact states that he is using some of the newer modules.  RailPro has improved each of their products, but their previous products still work just fine, its just the next generation.  If you need another controller, you will buy the newer one.  

But the real power is that software updates for the existing products allows them to be upgraded without buying new stuff and can actually change the functionality and add features without buying anything new.  These aren't firmware upgrades like most DCC manufacturers, these are real software updates that can add functionality to your existing product.  No DCC controller out there I know of can do that.  

And once again, if you are happy with DCC, fill your boots.  Those of us that want more are going out and getting it.  Taking every opportunity to slam those of us who want more than what DCC currently has is getting old and tiresome.

Oh, brother

Now our responses look completely out of context because some has marked AzBaja's post as spam.  

Moderator - yep, and while I didn't do it, I was notified about it and I am going to let it stand. His  comment provided nothing positive to the discussion. - Jeff Shultz

Anyways, back to the OP

Roundhousecat (name??) - I forgot to mention that the differences in the power supplies.  The one bundled with the starter kit is the PWR-56.  It is smaller and less expensive than its counterpart, the PWR-75.  It outputs 56 watts of power, whereas the the larger one outputs 75 watts.  They both put out 14.2 volts of regulated DC.  The PWR-56 is intended to be plugged into a surge protector because it does not have an on/off switch like the PWR-75 does (makes it lower-priced).  Both of them are radio controlled, both can be used as a direct radio repeater (provides multiple paths for the radio signal to get to the trains), and both have short circuit protection.  The big thing is that the PWR-75 has integrated reverser capability, whereas the PWR-56 will require the separate reverser module if you have any loops in the track.  

Hopefully that answers some questions!

-Kevin

I Am Using the HC-2

...and as Kevin stated, it does have more memory and a faster charging battery, much faster. I have installed some LM-2s modules. The case is definitely more sturdy than the LM-1, which, once installed and in place, doesn't matter. I have been using the larger PWR-75 power supply from the beginning and have had no issues with it but the PWR-56 will still run up to 15 locomotives at a time. For the price point, I would recommend the RP Starter Kit.

Thanks guys

You Will Need Harnesses

All RP modules have a 9 pin female plug. If your engines have 8 pin DCC plugs you will need an 8 pin to 9 pin adapter harness. They come in different lengths for varying installation configurations. At about $5 each, they are not cheap. If anyone has found a less expensive source please let us know where.  The LM-2s modules come with a 2-wire speaker harness. You just solder the free ends to the speaker terminals and plug the other end into the module. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which speaker terminal. The bigger problem is where to put the speaker. It would be nice if more manufacturers included speaker mounts in their locomotives. Atlas does on some locomotives. I don't know about Athearn.

Steam sounds?

I dont mean to hi jack the op's thread, but are steam sounds available for the rail pro sound modules?

Ive searched Ring Eng website, i only see diesel. Ive looked on youtube, and again, i see some diesels running with railpro, but no steam. Most of my fleet are pennsy BWL steam locos, and some older brass units. Im going to be selling off most of my diesels.

Im very interested in railpro, but i cant justify switching over until i hear some of the steam sounds, or at least know they are going to be available in the near future.

thanks,

jerry

Ring Steam

From Ring Engineering FAQ

Does Ring Engineering plan to offer more locomotive sounds?

 YES.  It will be one of our highest priorities to make more locomotive sounds available for download from our Internet site. Currently we have available Steam Engine sounds and Diesel Engine sounds including the EMD 645 non-turbo, EMD 645-16 turbo, EMD 710, GE 7FDL-16, EMD 645-20, EMD 567, GEVO and GTLE turbine.  This is enough prime movers to cover most of the locomotives in operation today.  We also have several horns, a few whistles, bells, and other sounds. Of course we will continue to add more.

Does Ring Engineering plan to offer steam engine sounds?

 YES.  We now offer steam engine sounds that can be installed in a locomotive module. Currently all locomotive modules are shipped with Diesel Engine sounds preloaded.  You can simply delete the Diesel Engine sound files from the Locomotive module and load the Steam Engine sounds.  See the user manual for complete details.

Answers

@ Doug - The Athearn RTR locos usually come with a 9 pin harness on the board.  The LM2 will plug right into it.  You may find on some locos that there is not much room for both the board and the module, and if that is the case there are a few ways around it.  First, my personal choice, is to remove the factory electronics and hardwire everything to the LM2.  The other way around it is to clip off the tabs holding the board on (Genesis, not RTR), then tape the board to the top of the motor...it gives you a couple more mm of space.

@ Al - Digitrax has a pack of 5 9-pin harnesses for around $5.  These are for hardwiring, which is what I do to all my locomotives.  That's the least expensive I have seen.

@ Jerry - they do have steam sounds, although they are pretty basic at the moment.  As more steam sounds are recorded they will be added to the library.  The LM2 has two inputs (yes inputs), and according to Tim at RE one of the uses for them will be cam timing for steam locos, so the chuff sounds at the correct time.  I believe he is working on that at the moment.  Other steam sounds can be added, as long as recordings can be taken.  He's open to user-submitted sounds as well.

-Kevin

Horns and Whistles

I'm looking forward to more diesel horns and steam whistles, although the current ones are very true to proto. The synchronized cam should sound good but I'm not sure where the input would come from. DCC ready locos don't come with an output for that.

Kevin, thanks for the Digitrax info. I have done several hard wired installations but the plug-ins are much easier, assuming there is room.

ordered the pair

@Doug

Yankee Dabbler is an excellent vendor, and an MRH sponsor.  He has great prices and ships quickly.  I have never had a problem with any of my orders from them.  I order all my electronics and speakers from them.

If your loco has a 9-pin connector then you can plug the module straight in.  Most "DCC-Ready" locos have a 9-pin plug included on their board.  There are a few exceptions, but you will have to open the loco up to find out.  For the picture, take as good a pic as possible, send it to Ring, they'll contact you within a day to say it's ready for download.  Follow the instructions that come with the HC-2 to connect and download from the RE website.  That goes for pictures as well as sounds, lighting, and software updates to all Railpro products.  It's really straightforward.  Just follow the manual, or read the Help pages on the HC-2.  It will walk you through everything.

-Kevin

pics

Pics

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think they have a library of RTR models from already submitted photos, so you might not need to send your photo.

Is that right?

@Doug

If you're submitting a pic for your own use it should be a photograph you took.  Otherwise you get into copyright issues and things like that.  Check the Ring Engineering website first to see if they have a picture you can use, otherwise take your own and send it.

-Kevin

The Railpro Website

...currently has around 250 locomotive photos, most of which were submitted by customers. As long as the model, color and road name are correct, don't worry about the numbers as most of them are too small to read on the controller screen. Also, you will place your own description for every loco on your controller.

ok

Emailed Ring Engineering and I'll supply my own.

Railpro newbe

Just started with my Railpro setup but I have been planning for it for at least a year already with my track wireing for DCC or Railpro. I went with Railpro because of the easy programing and modern tech. I originally did not purchase thier power supply but after letting a little smoke out of one of my receivers due to an overvoltage issue with my Atlasmaster supply, I decided to use the recommended supply. I went with the pwr-75 for the main 20x20 double deck HO area and will probably also get the smaller version for my staging and yard area that are in a separate room that is accessed by a bridge over my stairway. that are is about 30 feet away from where the main supply will most likely be mounted and will probably need to be used as a repeater. Both units can be used as signal repeaters. I plan to run several trains in each area at the same time and the controllers will be a distance away from some trains. My layout is a walk around setup so following a train will be easy, but you can run multiple trains with one control.

Ring Sounds

I have the Rail Pro starter kit and I am more than happy with it.  I have found the Rail Pro system easy to operate and the support is top notch.  I have one steam engine and the rest are diesel.  My steam sounds are fine for me.  Tim has more sounds coming all the time.  I chose the Rail Pro system after much research on DCC.  Rail Pro is so easy to operate and the LM-2S modules are easy to install.  I use Athearn engines so the 9 pin connector is already there, otherwise you need a 8 to 9 pin harness which are easy to find and not expensive.  The easy to use controller with the large color screen is great.  Doing a consist with Rail Pro is easy with only a few steps on the controller.  I am very happy with Rail Pro and Ring Engineering.  I have found Yankee Dabbler and Traintek also have experts on hand to answer any questions or do module installations if needed.  Rail Pro has put the fun in model railroading for me. 

steam sounds

I have been trying to reprogram one receiver module for steam sound and have not had much luck. I got the steam sounds off the web sight but when I try to upload them to the engine it says no files found. I'm sure it is user errror but I haven't had any spare time to go over it with no days off this month. The engine runs and the lights work but no steam sounds. I did have the bell working but lost that after my last sound upload attempt. I also have not found a way to swap out the photo so the RP diesel pic will probably not let me use steam sounds. When I get a few hours off I will regroup and try again.. The new Railpro supply does not give me the overvoltage indicator the previous, none Railpro unit did so it was worth the money.

Photo Swap

To change pictures, first download the correct picture from the website. Then, on the controller press tools, copy file, select the RE locomotive and copy the file into the module. Bring up the locomotive on the controller, press the settings button and touch the picture. This will allow you to select the picture file you just copied. Don't forget to save the setting.

The RP diesel picture should have nothing to do with the sound settings. All settings are done from the adjustments screen. Download and copy the files to the LM-2s in the same way as the picture. Then go into the settings and select the button you want to use. Adjust the settings for that button (type:sound, momentary, steam engine icon) and save those settings. In the advanced settings, select auto-notching and you can adjust the chuff rate. Set each button you want to program for the type of action it will perform. It will take only seconds once you get used to it.