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Cornhill & Atherton – Helix Top Deck Issues Solved Journals/Blogs
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MRH Contrib. Editor 1,931 posts fernpoint MRH Contrib. Editor 1,931 posts
fernpoint

Atherton engine terminal will sit on top of the helix to offset the loss of space a helix can cause. This creates 2 issues:
 

  1. The helix rises into the top deck bench work with consequent clearance and routing problems.
  2. The top of the helix gives the longest “operational stretch” anywhere on the line. Not a problem for day to day operation because there isn’t any coupling/uncoupling in this area, but installing the turntable, engine facilities and scenic details could be a challenge.

After a bit of head scratching I came up with a solution; basically using cleats on both the inside and outside of the helix to support both the attached top deck bench work and also a removable engine terminal module.

This picture shows the addition of the first outside cleat that supports the bench work, but allows the helix roadbed to continue un-hindered:
Helix1.jpg 

Now we add the 4 internal cleats to support the terminal module:

Helix3.jpg 

And here is the basic frame of the module slotted in place. I just need to add plywood to form the terminal yard and then I can build away to my heart’s content on the workbench and replace the module when complete. I’m actually planning a couple of temporary handles so that I can easily insert and remove the module during the build phase.

Helix4.jpg 

Last 2 views show the entry and exit points of the helix roadbed as it runs under the terminal.

Helix5.jpg 

Helix6.jpg 

Now that it’s done it looks blindingly obvious but “hindsight is a very precise science” as they say!

Rob
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LKandO Prolific poster 3,839 posts
LKandO

Helix Supported Benchwork

You and I are on the same path utilizing the same idea. See the big open hole in the benchwork with no cross members? That is where I will do exactly the same thing you are doing minus the wall cleats. This view is approximately half the helix space. The other half is behind the backdrop. The benchwork board along the backdrop will be cut as necessary to allow the helix to pass through.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
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fernpoint MRH Contrib. Editor 1,931 posts
fernpoint

LK and O Helix

Hi Alan

It's comforting to hear that some of my ideas are in line with the LK&O.

I think the big difference here is scale: – you can fit 10 * C&As inside 1 LK&O!

Your Fiscal Cliff must be way scarier than mine

I had previously seen the shot of the helix area in your blog (didn’t realize what it was at the time) and was curious about the temporary support clamped to the front edge – all is explained now.

Love the idea of bisecting the helix with the backdrop………..

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton RR

PS: On to lower deck lighting installation next - I have a personal objective to catch you up.
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LKandO Prolific poster 3,839 posts
LKandO

Fiscal Cliff

Quote:

Your Fiscal Cliff must be way scarier than mine

Just don't look down!

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 
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pldvdk Super User 2,563 posts
pldvdk

Nice

Rob,

Really nice helix! I've got two on my layout. I know how difficult working out the clearances and building around the helix can be. Great solution with the cleats!

I see you used screws to assemble the helix. Did you glue the helix sections in addition to the screws? I glued everything together without screws, but that took a long time to do. If I ever have to do it again, I think I'll do it your way. Looks like it would go together a lot faster!

Paul Krentz

Free-lancing a portion of the N&W Pocahontas "Pokey" District

Read my blog
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fernpoint MRH Contrib. Editor 1,931 posts
fernpoint

Speedy Helix

Hi Paul

Thanks for your kind words - Your comment about working out clearances is right on the money. It felt like I spent more time on the math than actually building the thing

I used glue on the bottom of the spacers and screws on the top. I found that the white glue was strong enough within 30 minutes to add the next level of the helix. The screws also allowed me to do a bit of fine tuning on roadbed levels when laying the track.

Although I didn't try it, Jeff Johnstone (in his You Tube helix construction guide) suggests using a combination of hot glue and white glue to speed up construction.

Regards

Rob

Cornhill & Atherton RR
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