Sean Martin

 Has anyone had any experiance using the Central Valley Turnout kits?  I am impressed with the level of detial.

Here is the website:   http://www.cvmw.com/cvtswitch/index.htm

 

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Wolfgang

Central Valley

I've used them at my Diamond Valley.

Those kits look great. But I run into a few problems and changed the frogs.

Wolfgang

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Rio Grande Dan

"CV" or Not to "CV"

Over the years Detail is great and great Detail is better but its still not everything!

I don't think I could use these "CV" Kits as I'm using HO-HOn3 Duel Gauge turn outs and HOn3 and I haven't found anyone but fast Tracks that even offer the duel gauge turnouts. I was using shinohara Standard Gauge as well as their Duel Gauge turn outs. One big problem, their Duel Gauge turnouts are not available in large quantities and I haven't seem even one in a hobby shop in the past 2 years. You can find some on E-Bay for $25.00 to $35.00 but that's just nuts when I can build the best operational Duel gauge Turnouts I have found at a cost of about $8.25 each maybe a little less and a couple hours using the "Fast Tracks" Fixtures and I don't have to worry about the ties melting or warping. Yes I have heard other model railroaders say that wood ties will swell and warp. in 45 years of building and using wood for thousands of projects I have never known wood to get longer or shorter and that's where the gauging of track comes in. wood will warp, swell, cup and twist but, it doesn't grow. Should your track get out of gauge you just need to pull a few spikes re-gauge it maybe replace a couple ties and then replace and re-spike the rails just like the real Railroads do. so far I have never had this problem and as far as detail I believe that track should be operational sound first and if you can show off good sound track work then the super detailing should be left to those building a small module and really want all the details or those that really weant all the details they can get. Besides I don't let people get so close to my tracks that they can count the nuts and bolts so, super detail of track and Turnouts isn't necessary. Actually it's totally up to who owns and is building the railroad and to what level of detail they are trying to project. For those of you that want that super detailed look I say go for it and post some photos to show it off so the rest of us can say "WOW check this Railroad out is is real or a model?"

Dan

Rio Grande Dan

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joef

Absoulutely!

I love the Central Valley Turnout tie kits (CVT) - I don't use the whole kit, however. I just buy the ties from Proto:87 Stores and use them as a sort of poor man's Fast Tracks turnout jig to make a fabulous looking turnout that's also spot on the NMRA dimensions. You get a great looking turnout with full tie plate and spikehead detail, and it operates as good as it looks!

Here's a #6 code 83 turnout that I built using my CVT method. I replace a few key plastic ties with PC ties, ala Fast Tracks. I remove the foil on the PC ties, leaving only the area on the PC tie that would be where the tie plate goes. Then I solder the rails down, using the slots in the CVT ties to gauge the rails. It works very slick!

I use the Fast Tracks point filing jig to make fast work out of filing the point rails and of making the point of the frog. I use the full-sized CVT drawing (download off the Central Valley web site) to cut the frog wing rails and guard rails to length, and then double check every thing with an NMRA gauge as I'm working.

The result is an inexpensive turnout that looks fabulous and operates silky smooth like the Fast Tracks turnouts. The CVT ties cost $6 each from Proto:87 Stores, plus the cost rail and PC ties and solder, you'll pay less than $10 for the materials to build these turnouts.

I cover the complete process step-by-step with photos on my Siskiyou Line web site.

I think the next thing I need to do is document building these turnouts on video and put an article in MRH.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

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marcoperforar

Made it "Southern Pacific" style

Joe pictures a turnout made "Southern Pacific" style.

Mark Pierce

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dfandrews

CV - modified

Yes, I've used CV switches and tie strips, and will continue. 

The tie strips are great as an alternative to hand-laid wood ties:  they look better than wood, and are easier to lay and gauge.  Cost-wise they're not a deal breaker, either, at less than a buck a foot in bulk.  They accept Code 83 or 70.

Switches:  I, too, was not satisfied with the frogs, so now I'm using Joe Fugate's method (link is below),  with solid rail from points to frog wing, over CV switch ties.  So, I buy two-packs of switch ties from CVMW, rail from ME, and have a Fast-tracks frog point form tool:  I'm good to go.  Again, switches that look good, perform great, and are within my budget.

"CV Turnouts - Take 2":  ( http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?5125)

Regarding the switch stands that are in the kits:  I ordered those as a separate item (CV item #1604 - pack of six for $6.25 ) with the intent of assembling them as operating switch stands.  I haven't gotten to them yet (not brave enough?), but the detail looks good.

 

Don - CEO, MOW super.

Rincon Pacific Railroad, 1960.  - Admin.offices in Ventura County

HO scale std. gauge - interchanges with SP; serves the regional agriculture and oil industries

DCC-NCE, Rasp PI 3 connected to CMRI, JMRI -  ABS searchlight signals

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proto87stores

Instant Ten Dollar Turnouts a la' Joe

We picked up up on Joe's great idea from his post Anaheim Convention comment.

So" Voila"! Here are the new Ten Dollar turnouts, but with a pre-formed more accurate and prototypical frog, that just needs assembling, actually realistic throw bars, proper realistic  point hinges, and what's more, code 88 wheels don't bump!!!  All parts included with nothing else to buy!

http://www.proto87.com/lowest-cost-ho-turnouts.html

If you don't want to make your own points, then you can just buy the "Superfine Version" with CNC machined proper undercut points.  And for those in a hurry, they even come as RTR versions. 

We use ACC instead of spikes or solder at the rail ends and it all ends up just as strong and long lasting. But you can overspike the rails anywhere you like with our scale spikes if you are at all nervous about strength.

But from the $10.00 to the RTR versions, they all match perfectly with lots of lovely detail and every frog number and rail code is available. #5 thru #9 and code 55 thru 83.

So Thanks Joe, you've made life  lots better and easier for a heck of a lot of Model Railroad Hobbyists!

Andy

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Les Halmos

Nice Turnouts Andy

The turnouts look great I'll be going to your site as soon as I finish this reply! 

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Les Halmos

Advertising Account Manager

Modular Columnist

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joef

Andy, this is great!

Wow, Andy, this is great! These look very nice ... I'm honored that you thought my basic CV tie kit approach was worth developing into this kind of offering.

S-w-e-e-e-t!

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

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ChrisNH

Looking forward to N scale jig

I am looking forward to future N scale products from Proto87 (proto160?).

Right now I interested in the frogs and the rail joiners rail aligners. Would love to see some pics of the N scale rail joiners actually hooked up to track. I have concerns about flange clearance.

Any word on when/if tie strips and/or turnouts might be available in N?

Chris

“If you carry your childhood with you, you never become older.”           My modest progress Blog

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Scarpia

Would the detail be there in N scale

Would the Proto 87 details be there in N scale? Would they be visable to justify it? 


HO, early transition erahttp://www.garbo.org/MRRlocal time PST
On30, circa 1900  

 

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ChrisNH

Not so much details

I am not so much interested in the detail stuff as I am in their products to facilitate hand laying track. I would like to get a sheet of the joint bars just to see how hard they are to put on. I am thinking that if I did just the outside of the outside rail.. and cut a small notch where the joint thingy is.. I will not only get a nice effect but I will get a clickety clack. Still.. very fussy work.. probably only worthwhile on upper deck foreground track.

I personally think you can do a lot with color on N scale track to suggest detail like tie plates and joint bars. I will put that to practice when I get some money together and can start hand laying track. Since I couldnt find any track stuff at the convention, I spent my limited budget on scenery material.. maybe order hand lay stuff in September. Hoping Proto and/or CVT has some N scale tie strips out soon like for the HO "Fast and Easy" track..

 

Chris

“If you carry your childhood with you, you never become older.”           My modest progress Blog

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Wolfgang

Throw bar exchange

Hi Andy, I've exchanged the throw bar with PROTO:87 throw bar over a year ago.

I wish you had this that time.

With your turnout you can have even the manganese frog.

Wolfgang

 

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aileron44

Question for Joe

Your pioneering work on the hybrid FastTrack/CVT turnout appears to be the way to go for custom-built, detailed, and reliable turnouts.  In your original article on making the "JF" turnout,  you mention that you prefer not using the CVT frog castings because of extra work needed.  My question is now that CVT is offering the "JF" turnout in kit form using precision formed frog parts, have you or would you consider using this kit instead of making your own frogs?

 

Thanks for all you do!

George Corral

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