rickwade

 I had originally planned to mount my benchwork to the wall using similar methods to what Scott Perry did.

http://modelrailroadersnotebook.blogspot.com/ ) 

That has changed due to our recent experience mounting our TV to the "studs" in our master bedroom.  First, I found that the "studs" were on 24" centers instead of 16" centers.  This isn't a big deal; however, the dimensions and connection method of the "stud" is.  I went over to a house under construction and discovered that the walls against the concrete block are NOT studded with 2 x 4s, but instead are covered with furring strips approximately 5/8" thick by 3/4" wide AND these strips are only held on the wall by 3 concrete nails.  While these furring strips are fine for holding drywall I suspect the will NOT be strong enough to handle the pulling force of a shelf layout not supported by legs. So, I'm thinking legs for support and screw it to the wall for stability.

Here's a picture of the furring strips on 24" centers:

ngStrips.JPG 

 

And here you can see one of the three concrete nails that hold the strip on the wall:

gStripCU.JPG 

The block is filled with foam insulation and thus no 2' x 4' studding with interior insulation.  This is to code in Florida.

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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michaelrose55

Welcome to Florida! This is

Welcome to Florida! This is how they build homes in this wonderful state !

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rickwade

Yes, indeed Michael!

There's more than one way to skin a cat. I may use a horizontal "mounting" board that is attached to the wall by drilling through the cheapie furring strips and secured to directly to the concrete block using big lead anchors.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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atcguy

benchwork support

Rick

You may want to see how they mounted your kitchen wall cabinets and try to duplicate that.

Tom

Reply 0
bigjdme

tapcons from your local

tapcons from your local hardware store! Thats your best bet.

James

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LKandO

Without Doubt

Quote:

tapcons from your local hardware store! Thats your best bet.

Agreed.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

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rickwade

Kitchen cabinets

Tom,

Thanks for the suggestion; however, my kitchen cabinets are mounted to an interior call screwed to the 2 x 4 studs.

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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rickwade

No luck with Tapcons

I tried three times using Tapcons (always following the instructions to the letter) and had less than satisfactory results.  One time was on a concrete floor and many just broke off requiring me to use my Dremel with a cutoff disk to cut off the protruding broken end.  The other two times were trying to attach my steel 5 shelf units to the vertical concrete block wall for stability.  Although I tried two different sizes of Tapcons (with the suggested drill and drill bit type) they pulled out easily from the wall.  I've had no such pull out problems with the led anchors.

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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LKandO

YMMV

Sorry to hear you have had no luck with Tapcons. Fortunately, I have had great success with them. You know you have to install them with a hammer drill and really lean on it, right? In my experience a regular drill is not so good with Tapcons.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

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rickwade

Used a hammer drill & the proper bit

I used a hammer drill, but to no avail.

 

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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LKandO

Latitude Problem

Quote:

I used a hammer drill, but to no avail.

Maybe it is that southern concrete! Here up north it is so dang cold all you have to do is wet it and it will freeze solid to the wall.

Alan

All the details:  http://www.LKOrailroad.com        Just the highlights:  MRH blog

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro
nsparent.png 

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David Calhoun

Move!

This is hurricane resistant construction? If all else fails, move back to where walls will support your layout - - LOL! Glad to see you have a workaround. Patience, fortitude and Bob Humdee's Bigger Hammer Theory should get you through. Keep us posted.

Ellwood and Maybell say "Howdy."

Chief Operating Officer

The Greater Nickel Plate

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arthurhouston

Make the layout all one piece.

Do not attach to walls. Use 2 x 4s "L" Shape 3.5 in side facing out about 7 ft tall. Put "L" on bottom with 45 degree guest at connection. Attach layout to level you want on 2 x 4 going up place leg every two feet run brace from front of layout to Bench leg. This will also let you take apart in sections and move it in sections. If you think this something you may want to consider I will draw a plan for you. But seeing your work I know you can do it if you like the idea.
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rickwade

One piece layout

Art,

Very interesting idea - I will have to give that some thought.  Thanks!

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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