My Bracket Choice

My answer: http://www.lkorailroad.com/benchwork-brackets/

Have about 20 of them mounted so far and they are working out great. Don't penetrate into the lower level "sky" area much at all. And they are very sturdy. I would think the 8"x12" brackets would work well for 17" benchwork. Here are pics of 12"x18" brackets in use.

Available at Woodworkers Hardware

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I'm using a bracket from Ace, it's not bad.  One thing you could do is curve the backdrop skyboard to follow the curve made by the bracket along the underside.

Bracket

Hi Alan,

That might work but I am thinking might be better if the brackets were inverted. In which case that style may not work.

Rob Teed

Hi Benny

Thanks Benny. I may get to Ace and see what my options are.

Rob Teed

Inverted?

You are putting the brackets on the topside of the benchwork?

Inverted

I'm not sure, but I'm thinking if I did invert the bracket then I can hide it behind the backdrop.

Ideas?

Rob Teed

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Me thinks it would be easier to curve the lower level backdrop to match the arch of the bracket, than to lose that space at the back of the layout - you're looking at 6-8 inches of lost layout space if you invert.

Now if you're thinking of moving the bracket 90 degrees, you lose the core strength of the bracket doing that.

I do like KFGlover's shelf layout

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/building-my-shelf-layouts-12188177

Never seen that before

I dunno.... brackets are normally used in compression, not tension. Backdrop would have to be out over the bracket strut (whatever form it may take). Seems challenging to make that work well. 17" deep benchwork will hide a bracket underneath plenty well providing the benchwork is not above eye level.

Maybe an adjustable shelf bracket flipped upside down, screwed to the benchwork, and then buried in foam scenery base? Screws would be carrying the load which is bad design but realistically benchwork and trains don't weigh much. Use one big honker of a screw at an angle through the bracket to attach it to the wall? I'm grasping here.

I saw some brackets that are a right angle bracket base with a semicircle strut positioned tightly in the right angle. As I recall they were pricey but would fit your above-the-benchwork situation well. Something like this but the strut was smaller. Can't quickly find them again right now.

That bracket

Hi Alan,

That bracket is tough looking.LOL

I realize that an inverted bracket isn't going to have the strength but I don't expect there to be a lot of weight. I am thinking that space being at a preimuim I would rather loose the bracket space on the upper level. In my mind the upper level is more Hills ,Canyons and trees. where as the lower level has need for more structures.

Rob Teed

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Here's the brackets I am using, this size has a 100lb test load, which is more than I ever plan on putting on the layout.  I think I paid about $2.00 per piece, $4 a shelf.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3623397

It's about as unobtrusive as you can get, if you have a backdrop piece of linoleum laid right up onto the bracket.  But it could be better...

My system as it stands does not provide easy access to the underside of the layout, whereas I have shelving installed. I suppose I could take out the shelving, and then let the foam sit right on the brackets. Hence, the more I play with the ideas, though, the more I think Ken Glover has the right idea.  Ken has a rather useful cleat design here.

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/building-my-shelf-layouts-12188177

His system would be from Home depot and probably all the other big boxes too, it runs right around $8.00 for a set of two runners with two arms.  And this system allows for a much easier opportunity for installing a backdrop.

Re: I do like KFGlover's shelf layout

Thanks Rob. The Idea came from Iain Rice in his book Shelf Layouts For Model Railroads Chapter 2. I use an L-girder construction to make space for wiring but other methods would result in a smaller overall shelf depth.

The pictures in my blog show it all I believe.

@Benny

It came from Lowes actually Lowes is a mile from my house and Home Depot is on the other side of town. I'm sure most home/hardware stores would have similar items.

The cleat design is based on Iain Rice's design in the book I sighted above.

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Your rack system actually came from Rubbermaid, I do believe, which is sold by Lowes, Home Hepot, Ace...you know, everywhere that sells Rubbermaid.

It works well indeed!

Try hidden supports inside the shelf...

I found an example of a more extreme attempt to hide the shelf supports inside the shelf itself, yet still keeping the overall depth to a minimum, while maintaining a fairly light weight construction.  This helps to create maximum usable space between levels, yet ensures that the shelves are securely attached to the walls.

Georgetown Branch by Kelly Regan - Hardware and Framing

There are several pages on his blog that detail the construction efforts, and the final results.

Georgetown Branch by Kelly Regan - Shelf Construction - base is ply, resulting box is filled with foam (in this case with what looks like cheap polystyrene sheets) - - shows how the shelf base is hung below the brackets.

Georgetown Branch by Kelly Regan - Bracket detail.

Georgetown Branch by Kelly Regan - Starting the track base - showing how foam sheets are used to build up track base.

It's different....looks like a fair amount of work, but it achieves the author's intent to completely hide the brackets.

John from Canada

Simple, Cheap, Lightweight

(I changed my login name to better focus on my railroad interests).

I use simple single slot metal shelf brackets. The vertical standard is ½” thick and supports the backdrop as well as the shelf. The brackets are 18” long in this section supporting a 24” wide foam sheet. 1/8” hardboard strips go between the foam and bracket. The strip has a ¼” hole drilled where the tip of the bracket hits.

The thin brackets wobble when they are free but are nice and solid once the foam is in place and the tips are in the hardboard holes. Since the foam is constrained by the ends of the room, no back and forth movement is possible.  The foam is not fastened to the brackets; gravity is my friend.

Simple, lightweight, relatively cheap, easy to find, quick to install and plenty strong for our purpose.  Refer to my earlier blog entry “Multi-functional Foam” or my website for more details.  

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Use enough of these anchored to studs

Rob Check this out. Put this, heavy duty 1 1/2" wide with 11" legs, bracket under your shelf with leg up and use  wood shims to level shelf. From Lowes or ?  Also consider using 1/2" Gatorfoam, it weighs less than 10 lbs for a 4x8 sheet, and can be cut into 18" wide and shipped via UPS in lengths up to 4 ft. [topic:id=10710] 8 shows what i have done with my Gatorfoam. John

Gatorfoam sources

robteed You may be able to purchase Gatorfoam from a sign shop in your area. My source for Gatorfoam, http://www.gatorfoam.net, will cut to size. Nice for model bases, but also ships up to 4 ft long (via ups). He has standard pieces cut as small as 8" X 12" ($5.00) and might be able to ship you an 18" x 48" for around $30.00. I am giving a clinic for the NMRA's Hudson Berkshire Division of the Northeastern Region at Colonie , NY Youth Center on March 1st,2013. Check next months Form 19 at http://www.hudon-berkshire.org. Non HBD members get access a little late but I hope anyone interested will be able to see it timely. I will post info about the middle of February. John .