MRH-RE

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Reply 3
steamhed

Favorite Era

Jim,

This is the article I've been waiting for.....any 10 - 12 wheeler of the modern steam era.

Thanks again for the enthusiasm you bring to model RR publishing! Keep up the great work!

Ron Pope

 

Reply 1
Virginian and Lake Erie

Nice coverage of a time

Nice coverage of a time period Jim. These articles will also be of use to a free-lancer as well as it can be a real aid into developing a roster of suitable locomotives for a given time period.

Even if the ready to unbox models for a specific prototype are not available one could take one of the proper wheel type models and detail it to more closely match a different prototype. Years ago that was the only option for most of us wanting to put together a fleet of steamers.

Reply 2
LensCapOn

There were earlier engine options

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 I had a fascination with the NYC in the early 80's (1980's) when the models available were a bit different. The Bowser K-11 offered a lot of options for building a K class pacific, if you were willing to work with zanac. The boiler shell could be the start of a decent H-5 mikado. The cab would move any 2-8-0 closer to a G-5.

 

 And I shudder at the work needed to bring them up to acceptable levels of detail, although some achieved it.

 

Reply 1
James Six

Ron, In the months ahead look

Ron,

In the months ahead look for a lot more on 4-4-0 and 4-6-0 locomotives. Next month I will address the USRA 2-8-2 steam locomotives. All of my reviews of the prototypes will include suggestions for modeling them. I am finding that modeling steam is much easier than I had ever thought.

Thanks for your kind words,

Jim Six

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Reply 1
James Six

Rob in Texas

Hi Rob. I hope you have electricity and drinkable water! Y'all Texans have been in my thoughts and prayers.

In the months ahead you will see a lot of what I have learned and continue to learn. Turns out that modeling steam is a lost easier that most railroad modeler think it is. The months ahead will bring a lot of good news for anyone interested in the possibility of modeling during the steam era!

Jim Six

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Reply 1
James Six

LensCapOn

The Bowser was a fairly good model for modeling an NYC early K-class 4-6-2 and and as you point out, it is a good place to start modeling an NYC H5-class Mikado. I thought long and hard about doing just that but in the end I acquired an Overland brass H5. As pictured here it still needs a lot of work. More on that in a future column.

Jim

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Reply 2
LensCapOn

Brass IS the better option, if you can find it:

For something as specific as steam locomotives, if you can find brass in your budget it's always the better option.

I know none of the specifics of upgrading older mechanisms but understand some brands were solid and straightforward where a can motor with flywheel might be all that's need. Other brands could be complex and fragile where a near complete rebuild would be needed, with a chance of damaging details. Strangle, upgrading the details seems less intimidating.

 

I'll wait for you to provide more on that in a future column.

 

Am enjoying your series of articles.

Reply 1
James Six

LensCapOn

My problem is that I would like to have two or three H5 Mikes, but will have to settle for the one I have because I am not willing to spend the money to have more brass versions.

What we really need is to convince Broadway Limited or Bachmann to produce the NYC H5 Mikado. The Nickel Plate had a good many of them too as did a few other RRs.

My March column will address USRA Mikados of all railroads that had them. It should help a lot of modelers who may be interested in steam power. But, . . . we still need the H5 and many other steamers.

Take care,

Jim

Reply 1
LensCapOn

3D Printing might be the answer.

When you get into something as specific as steam loco variants a 3-D printed boiler shell and cab to fit an existing mechanism might be our best bet. I have seen some impressive work done and it seems to make sense for a market that MIGHT reach "dozens". (Do you know someone to do the CAD part?)

 

 But I'm still waiting for someone to do a Super-Seven in N! (A Dash 8-32B would work...)

Reply 1
Antioch

May I ask,  the Trix usra light mike is almost impossible to find but I have been offered an Athearn Genesis version.

How bad/good is it, is there any mileage in buying it to upgrade it?

Tim

http://timhalesblog.blogspot.com
A simple philosophy is to be a modeller of railways there needs to be a model railway. It doesn't matter if it is a loft or an Ikea box, there has to be a railway, otherwise we are mere collectors of things in boxes.
Reply 2
JamesSix
Tim asked: "

May I ask,  the Trix usra light mike is almost impossible to find but I have been offered an Athearn Genesis version. How bad/good is it, is there any mileage in buying it to upgrade it?"

The Athearn USRA Mike is a good-looking model but does not run all that well and being light in the front does not track well either. The Broadway Limited USRA Mike is a good model that runs well. It is DCC/sound equipped. Still, my favorite are the Trix Mikes.

James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 2
Pennsy_Nut
The Athearn USRA Mike has an undersized boiler. Besides being a poor runner and lousy hauler. Leave that one alone. I have the BLI PRR Mike and it runs great. Probably the same mechanism as the USRA?

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG IIv4, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Reply 2
Antioch
Thanks guys, 

I had been offered the Athearn model but wanted to understand why I didn’t want it.  In its place I bought a F-12e from GEM,  made in ‘75 spares should be easy to find.

Tim 
http://timhalesblog.blogspot.com
A simple philosophy is to be a modeller of railways there needs to be a model railway. It doesn't matter if it is a loft or an Ikea box, there has to be a railway, otherwise we are mere collectors of things in boxes.
Reply 2
Pennsy_Nut
Tim. I'm glad you didn't bother with Athearn. Mine just sits in a box. Don't run worth a ? And never did. Right out of the box, when I ran it for the first time, the gear cracked and I had to send it back to Athearn for that gear fix. And since then, it still is bad. Wouldn't pull more than 2-3 cars.
I know there's a fix for that, but never bothered.
You say you bought a GEM. Is that brass? I own 3 or 4 Gem Olympia brass engines. And none of them are any good. Each one had soldered brass break and none are fixable until I can find someone that has the proper soldering iron/gun to solder solid brass parts to other solid brass parts. And at this point in my life, I am not worried about that.
So good luck with your F-12e. Keep us posted on your progress with that.

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG IIv4, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Reply 1
JamesSix
I find the Athearn USRA Mike very good for spare detail parts. The cab, tender, smokebox front, pilot(s), and other details are great for using with re-detailing projects of other model locomotives. Just don't  buy it it you are looking for a good freight engine.
😉

James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 1
Antioch

JamesSix wrote:
I find the Athearn USRA Mike very good for spare detail parts. The cab, tender, smokebox front, pilot(s), and other details are great for using with re-detailing projects of other model locomotives. Just don't  buy it it you are looking for a good freight engine.
😉


I found a Trix mike at a reasonable cost (it had a good sound decoder) although rather large, it will be useful. 

Tim

http://timhalesblog.blogspot.com
A simple philosophy is to be a modeller of railways there needs to be a model railway. It doesn't matter if it is a loft or an Ikea box, there has to be a railway, otherwise we are mere collectors of things in boxes.
Reply 1
Matt Goodman
Good advice above. I have two Athearn Mikes I bought when they first came out.  Mine ran very smoothly although they didn't pull well and tended to climb the outside rail in a curve.  The advice back then was to loosen up the wire harness between the tender and remove the lead truck spring. The first change made the tender less likely to push the lead driver off the track (by making it more flexible), the second put a bit more weight on the front driver to make it less likely to climb in the first place. The solution for me was to put a slug of lead in the smokebox and cylinder saddle to put more weight on the fron. More details on that if anyone is interested. The net weight gain was about 2 ounces - up to 14.6  no tracking issues and better pulling. 

For comparison, the Trix Mike is about 16 ounces out of the box, with great balance. They've got a few of their own quirks - one being that the tender and locomotive are not easy to separate, a relatively noisy gearbox and a few that show up when pulling heavy loads.  None needs to be fixed.  

Lastly, I'll add two things that are the cherry on top when it comes to this model. Aesthetically, there's a faux frame tail (complete with rivets!) cast as part of the trailing truck, so there's no "air gap" under the firebox. Practically, this locomotive is, in spite of its detail, easier to disassemble than any other locomotive I own, steam or diesel. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 1
JamesSix
Here are my two Trix Mikados. I removed the coal bunker extension from the tender of both models. Other than that, the 1890 is box-stock with only weathering added. The 1883 has an Elesco feedwater heater added along with other detain changes and additions. Both run and sound very well. I absolutely love both models.

IMG_0017 a.jpg

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James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 3
JamesSix
This model is my Broadway Limited PRR class L2a USRA Mikado. I haven't weathered it yet, but I will. It too runs and sounds great. I love it too.
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James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 2
Antioch
Other than usra mikes, are there other RTR steam locos worth considering?
http://timhalesblog.blogspot.com
A simple philosophy is to be a modeller of railways there needs to be a model railway. It doesn't matter if it is a loft or an Ikea box, there has to be a railway, otherwise we are mere collectors of things in boxes.
Reply 1
JamesSix
Tim asked: "Other than usra mikes, are there other RTR steam locos worth considering?"

Anything Broadway Limited is going to be good. I also like Bachmann steam locomotives, but be careful there. Some Bachmann steam locos have separately applied detail, some have cast on detail. The ones with separate detail cost a little more, but are nicer. Either way, they run well. The Athearn/Roundhouse old time steam locos produced after the year 2000 are pretty good too, but may need additional detail added depending on your prototype railroad.  Don't buy any steamers unless they have DCC/sound already installed. Otherwise you are looking at an installation cost that can be as much as the price of the locomotive, or more. HO-scale steam models produced after about 2010 are typically good. Before 2010 they are iffy. Before year 2000 it is a crap-shoot.

Here is my Broadway Limited USRA Pacific 4-6-2 that I re-detailed, painted, and weathered. I converted it to a CCC&StL class K3q. Great running model and sounds great too.
K3q a.jpg

James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 2
Antioch
Hi Jim

Sorry to ask but I cannot think who else might know…..will the Trix light mike fit on a 90’ turntable…..btw, your writings have influenced my decision to abandon a 20+ project and take up trying to build a BLT in an unfeasibly small shed.  Really enjoying the challenge except I underestimated the size of US outline

Keep the faith

Tim 
http://timhalesblog.blogspot.com
A simple philosophy is to be a modeller of railways there needs to be a model railway. It doesn't matter if it is a loft or an Ikea box, there has to be a railway, otherwise we are mere collectors of things in boxes.
Reply 1
JamesSix
Tim asked: "will the Trix light mike fit on a 90’ turntabl"

Yes it will. That is what I used on my earlier layout and it turned Mikes with no problems at all.

James Six
Fremont, Ohio

Reply 1
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