Dull Cote alternatives...
Prof Klyzlr: The Dull Cote* Q&A is a bridge that is often trampled in this hobby, especially amongst weathering enthusiasts. I cannot honestly direct you in purchasing the matte finish abroad, I might only suggest that you contact Testors* and inquire about foreign distribution of this product.
More to the point and personally speaking Sir,...I have tried MANY variations of artists matte or dull finishes in the decade that I've been model weathering and I have yet to discover a better alternative to Dull Cote* It would seem that the other versions that I have tried left me a bit frustrated or disappointed in many aspects of the finish. I will refrain from naming certain name brands here Prof. however some of the results I have noticed with some of them is an "orange peel" effect on the model when dispensed directly from the spray can...(which btw, is the way I prefer. Some modelers prefer to thin the DC and then run it through an airbrush). Some of the other disappointing scenarios that I have experienced with products other than Dull Cote* is...the lack of a dull finish and more so a glossy finish, due to perhaps not enough talc mixed within the lacquer ratio. It would seem that Testors* has the perfect mix of the two. When I Dull cote a model throughout the process of weathering, I keep the spray can held at approximately 6 inch distance from the model and I spray a VERY fine misting to protect and seal the layered work that goes into each project. Through trial and error over the years, I have found that ANY matte finish will curdle or thicken on the model when applied to heavily or at a direct, close range when sprayed.
As for any yellowing over time with Dull Cote*? I have yet to experience such an effect. Again,..I think light mistings of the product would reduce the chances of a lacquer yellowing over a course of time. I think that any finish, when applied too thick would render prone to yellowing as time passes.
I too have read and explored differing methods of "prepping": DC before application. The whole warming in a bowl of water proved nothing significant IMO. Since I employ a small space heater in my weathering project regimens, I also utilize the warmth emitted from said heater to sort of thin the DC within the confines of it's aerosol canister. One thing that I have found with Testors Dull Cote* is,...When a new can seal is cut away and is ready to be sprayed upon a model , I have learned that the can needs a very vigorous shaking to bring the settled talc from the bottom of the can to become sufficiently mixed with it's counterpart lacquer contents. I have actually had new cans of Dull Cote* leave more of a sheen instead of a dull finish when not properly shaken and or the interior mixture of lacquer and talc is off. It would seem that the BEST results that I have obtained from misting on a layer of matte finish from Dull Cote, is near the last bit of the contents within the can. I can only assume that the spray nozzle and tube have reached the final contents of talc that might have accumulated and settled in the bottom of the can. I have also encountered issues with matte finish (DC included) with "white specking". This is when the can sprays out white specks of talc onto the model and is the result of the lack of shaking the mixture of the can before application. Should this occur,..it is easily remedied and rectified by just an additional application. The white specking usually dissipates when a fresh misting is applied directly over it.
Despite only a few infractions that I have encountered with Dull Cote* Prof Klyzlr,..I have yet to hear or sample any other ample product or reasonable facsimile that delivers the decent results that Dull Cote* does.
As for your second inquiry Prof Klyzlr, I have never applied graffiti decals on any project that I have undertaken. However, I do apply other decals i.e. data, heralds, reporting marks, numbers etc. In certain instances and formerly as a general rule, I will weather the model initially and then add whichever decal (this can apply to graffiti decals as well for those who use them)...You can weather light mediums directly over them once they are settled and sealed into place with a matte finish. I have painted graffiti upon a model project and then returned after a misting sealant of Dull Cote* and continued with light washes of grime or added a fade with rust pitting, scratches etc. to give the graffiti the appearance of being on the car for a long spell of time. Along with a couple of tags on the featured SOO LINE car in the article, here is an example of that very processes results....... http://www.theweatheringshop.com/gsscb.html The vital factor in achieving these type of results IMO lies within the sealing of the graffiti work with matte finish before weathering over the artwork. So, summarily, I would say yes to your question! Filth, rust and grime can be added directly over the graffiti if one desires the look of tags that have inherited a few miles in their lifespan on a freight car. I think doing such adds more depth to a project and tells a more defined story.
Thank You Prof Klyzlr for you questions and the feedback on this article..it is considerably appreciated! I certainly hope that you might be able to secure a few cans of Dull Cote at some point down under.
Gary Christensen
