Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here are both modules with the waffles attached and painted.  The module "box" construction is complete at this point.  White is the color of choice for contrast in case some issue below needs addressed while connected to a layout.  Makes it a whole lot easier to see.  By the way, that's Cookie, she's the job superintendent.    Photo taken Aug. 11, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

This shot is of the turnouts (#6 Peco Code 83) being laid out on the 8" and 10" main lines (8 being 8" from the front of the module; 10 is 10" from the front - standard SS&S specs).  Later on I peeled these up and switched them from left-handers to right-handers since I goofed up and told my fellow modeler to also buy left-handers for his module.  Matthew is using Walthers/Shinohara track on his module.  Notice the roadbed is already installed.  We used the same 1/4" material of which the rest of the module is constructed.  Cut the strips and beveled them 45° on the table saw.  Photo taken Aug. 12, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here I've painted the roadbed black (something I personally like to do to help give the ballast depth) with just some inexpensive craft paint.  I taped off the edges to keep it neat, but actually should have painted the top first with the earthtone color as you'll see in a subsequent photo.  Photo taken Aug. 15, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here I painted the top with the (nearly free) earth tone latex house paint.  I probably should have taped off the edges of the roadbed, but I was lazy that day and I paid for it with a less than perfect job.  Later, I taped of the top and repainted the roadbed to neaten it up - just couldn't live with the messy edges.  What can I say, I'm particular about that sort of stuff.  Photo taken Aug. 17, 2012 

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here you can see the finished paint job of the top having cleaned up the edges of the roadbed.  Next I installed the track with drops.  For some reason, I can't find the photos of that step.  Next up, the wiring harness underneath.  Photo taken Aug. 19, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

I lied! I found the track installation photos.  I use Loctite PowerGrab All-pupose adhesive.  I like it better than caulk because it seems to bond a bit better, yet if you need to peel up track you can still do it without hosing it up.  Since these modules will do some traveling the PowerGrab is the logical choice in my mind.  Here you see the 21" branch line having been laid.  I'll explain how the track is affixed on the frontiers (ends) so they don't move and so the rails will line up to the SS&S standards and with any of the modules from the SS&S group.  Photo taken Sep. 2, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

For my module, I decided to go with the Gap Master GM007 product.  It's PC tie type material already gapped down the center.  I used Loctite epoxy to affix them to the frontiers.  I lined them up on spec center from the front at 8", 10", and 21" respectively. Note that I let the rail over hang about an eighth of and inch.  Later, I sanded them even with the frontier/end with a belt sander.  I should have used the SS&S template we have to line up the GM007's, but hindsight is 20/20.  I'll reference that in later posts.  Photo taken Sep. 2, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here you see the branch line and the 10" main (with drops) installed at this point.  Photo taken Sep. 3, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here's a shot of the 1" tubing we purchased to use for the aligning pins on the ends.  Photo taken Sep. 9, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here you see our wiring harness setup for the rails on the 8" and 10" rails.  From front to back, colors are white, brown, brown, yellow, green. We use the four pin trailer wire harness for the two front main lines.  We designate the ends, in this case the right, from the "front" of the module - the 8" main - to ensure the correct connector gets wired in place so the modules can be daisy chained together in any layout configuration.  Photo taken Aug. 27, 2012.

Nicely constructed

I like the waffle idea, it's hard to tell from photo's but does that have blocking that runs lengthwise and crosswise? Can you post more detail about how you built the waffle? Is it lightweight?

Also, are you following a standard, what is SS&S specs? Your friend is also making a module?

It look real interesting, and nicely constructed.

Thanks for posting.

Greg Amer

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here I've made the "tails" for the 12v accessory wire.  This used to be on the "back" wiring harness for the 21" branch line, but the specs were changed to isolate this from the track power.  Incidentally, all three lines are isolated from each other.  There have been shows where NCE DCC was run on the 8" main, Digitrax on the 10" and good ol' DC on the branch line.  Additionally, I meant to mention that although it's optional, a lot of the guys use dual gauge track on the branch line so they can run some narrow gauge equipment if they so desire.  Photo taken Aug. 27, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

The completed wiring harness for the right frontier installed including the bus wires.  A Molex 4 pin plug is used for the 21" rails along with a third wire for the narrow gauge.  The narrow gauge connection is optional, but we included it since it's just the neighborly thing to do!  Photo taken Sep. 8. 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

The first module is completed in time for KenFest in Boone NC with the Sipping & Switching Society of NC boys.  We tried to have them both ready to test and tune, but time caught up with us so we settled for concentrating on getting one done to have a baseline for the second module and future modules.  I'll chronicle the leg and extension process and the way track is normally affixed on the frontiers in the next few posts.  Photo taken Sep. 12, 2012. 

Sipping & Switching Society of NC

I like the waffle idea, it's hard to tell from photo's but does that have blocking that runs lengthwise and crosswise? Can you post more detail about how you built the waffle? Is it lightweight?

Also, are you following a standard, what is SS&S specs? Your friend is also making a module?

I was getting to that...but since you asked...check out the SS&S of NC's Yahoo Group here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SandSSofNC/

If you have a Yahoo account you can join to see all kinds of construction photos, CAD drawings and event photos.

We used corner blocking on the outside walls and on the inside stringers.  This keeps it square and also I shoot some pins through the waffle when we attach it (we use lots of glue too!).  The entire construction excepting the ends are made from 1/4" Luan or other types of like material.  We could only find SurePly underlayment so that's what we used.  The ends are made from 3/4" Marine Plywood.  Mainly because there are no gaps in the lamination and it expands/contracts very little.

Strength is incredible.  The "box" without the waffle flexes a bit, but once you get the waffle on, it's VERY rigid.  And absolutely - it's light weight. That's the beauty of it.  One guy can carry one of these units with the legs and all without much trouble at all.  (We all make cradles or carriers with casters on them so we can sandwich two like modules and wheel them around when unloading and loading for a show.)  The wheels on the legs make it super fast when we setup too.  Some other module groups take all day to set up.  We normally have ours up and running trains in 2 hours.  

A fellow modeler, Matthew (and his brother Gene) and I are in cahoots.  Matthew and I have been constructing the first two and unfortunately Gene travels quiet a bit with his job so he's not been as involved.  The brothers bought into the concept log ago.  It took me longer to get on board, but after I saw it all in person this past spring, I too drank the Kool-Aid and am neck deep in it.  I was unemployed nearly a year so I had lots of time on my hands and finished my basement out for a traditional layout, however with being out of work for an unexpectedly long time, that idea quickly faded.  Realizing I may need to pick up stakes and move where work is, the modules made perfect sense for me.  No pulling everything off a layout and trying to salvage pieces and parts on top of having to repair walls and whatnot.  So now I have a nice finished space I can fill with modules and if need be, I can pick up and move on and take them with me with minimal pain.

There's more to come so stay tuned...and again, check out the Yahoo group if you want to see many more details than I have given here. 

Sipping & Switching Society of NC

Here's a shot of the entire layout we had setup in Boone at a church gymnasium.  Our module was in one of the branch loops further back and to the right.  This was perfect as we could test it without impeding the main line if we had bugs.  And as with anything new, we did have couple of small bugs, but we fixed a wiring issue and gapped some track behind both turnouts and from there it was smooth sailing. Photo taken Sep. 14, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

The way most SS&S modelers affix the rail to the frontiers is as pictured below.  Two screws; either galvanized or brass. I used 1 1/2" brass screws.  The Sippers all swear that one screw will move and back out, but two screws never move.  The screws go in pretty easy if you pre-drill and use a little wax on the threads.  They don't always go in perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the roadbed, but that's where a file comes in handy.  I file them as level as I can and adjust the height and test the clearance between the screw head and bottom of the rails.  I used the end plate template to position the track on the roadbed and marked on both sides of the rails to assist me in getting the screws as centered as possible on the rails.  Photo taken Sep. 20, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here you see the rails mounted by soldering the rail to the screw heads.  You really have to get the heat built up in the screws so the solder will flow.  I used liquid flux to help in this process.  Very important to keep the solder out of the web on the inside of the rails.  I left the rails overhang again about an eighth of an inch and sanded them flush with the frontier with a belt sander.  Photo taken Sep. 24, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here's a shot of the feeders from the two front tracks soldered to the buses.  Photo taken Sep. 24, 2012.

I used the same construction idea.

Not to steal your thread, but expounding on this method, I wanted my layout to be portable too. There have been many a time I would start on a layout and then to be told  I was transferring. So, this time I built a very similar layout table, but I took it a bit further and stronger. My waffle dividers are 1×6s that have large 2inch holes with 1inch between each hole.  Let me refer to this as a spline.  I also attached a 1×2 to bottom and top of the 1×6.  It looks like an I-beam full of holes. One long one runs the length of the table. Smaller I-beams run perpendicular to the main I-beam. This produces an 8" thick table which I applied luan to both sides. It is rigid and very strong, but so light weight I can lift a 7 foot section easily by myself.

Why all the holes? It was a pain to cut all those holes and it took time to do, but it took a great amount of weight out of the table while providing a great place to run cables. The cables remain inside the table. This table breaks apart into two pieces. Where the two pieces mate the end plates also have two 2 inch holes for cables to pass through. I found a PVC coupling that I use in those holes for alignment that have open ended threaded caps. Works great!

My layout table is V-shaped. The tail ends of the V and the point are rounded. I trim out the vertical edges using Masonite. It bends beautifully around those curves and creates a nice finish. I have the material on hand to make it look like riveted steel.

I used the folding legs in three places. I attached PVC pipe and feet to raise the table top up to a comfortable height.  On the tabletop I glued 3 inches of blue foam to make my zero elevation. This allows me to have ravines below the zero elevation. I use Woodland Scenics foam risers and inclines to maintain a 2% grade through the mountains.

It is a good thing I built it the way I did. My wife informed me that she wants my train room for her art studio and I should move to another bedroom next door. It will be easy to move the layout. I think it is her way of making sure that room gets remodeled like the other bedrooms have.

I will try to get some photos tonight of the I-beam construction. I happen to have an extra one I didn't use.

Den

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Mounting the legs slightly staggered helps when folding them up and keeps them unit a bit more compact for transporting.  Photo taken Sep. 24, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here you see the four legs with their extensions.  We use 1" dowel material and taper the upper end to fit up inside the banquet table legs.  We use a self tapping screw to keep them from falling out when the module is turned up right.  We taper the lower ends to accept a piece of tubing that acts as a retaining ring (I used epoxy to permanently affix the retainer to the extensions) for the casters to keep the dowel from splitting and for overall strength and durability.  The finished height of all modules are 48" from the floor to the top of the rails.  Like I said before, the casters make the setup of a layout SUPER easy; we can be running trains in two hours as opposed to spending a whole day setting up.  Photo taken Sep. 25, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Here are both modules connected for the first time.  Matthew's is nearest you in the photo.  Still need to mount the aligning pins on the ends, but the mods go together quite easily with just the pins fitted on my module. The holes on the ends are made with a one inch Forstner bit using the template for exact positioning in relationship to the top of the rail heads.  The pins are mounted in the first and third holes on each end from left to right as you face the end.  Photo taken Sep. 26, 2012.

Sipping & Switching Module Construction

Another image of the two modules connected for the first time.  Photo taken Sep. 26, 2012.