Last month I described in words the laminating process.  I took a few pictures the other day when I was cutting up two sheets of masonite hardboard into strips for the spline helix that I am building.  This is my method and there may be others but this is how I do it. Updated 6 Sep with additional pictures.

I use a 10 inch table saw on the concrete pad outside of the tool storage area of my train building.  The saw is mounted on a wheeled platform that allows me to easily move it outside and then set it in place.  I then add an in-feed folding table (about 4 feet long) and an out-feed folding table (about 6 feet long).  These tables keep the hardboard sheet from breaking during the cutting process.  The first time that I did this, I did not use the out-feed table and the cut strips broke when they dropped to the concrete.  I wish that they were the same height as the table saw but I'm using what I have available.  

The picture below shows the vertical featherboard that I use.  It is homemade and it is an invaluable tool when using a table saw. 

This shows the sheet on the out-feed table after the strip is cut.  Be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask as there is a lot of dust created. 

The picture below shows the set-up that I use when cutting the last few strips.  That is when I use both type of featherboards (vertical & horizontal).  I also use a push stick, on every cut not just the too close ones, to shove the remaining hardboard through the last foot or so to the blade.  This ensures that the sheet remains flush to the fence without endangering any body parts.

This picture shows the push stick that I use.  It is leftover from a cabinet project several years ago.

The picture below shows the results of cutting the strips from the damaged sheet that I recently bought for $5.  I was able to get a total of 46 each of the 8 foot strips and 4 each 6 foot strips.   I also cut a brand new $8 sheet after this one and got a total of 50 each 8 foot strips.  The only waste from the two sheets were the broken sections from the 4 shorter ones on the first sheet and about a 1/2 inch wide strip from the second one plus the mountain of saw dust.  Not bad for a total expenditure of $13. 

After cutting the strips, they have to be laminated.  The two pictures below show some of the final stages of the lamination process.  The first one shows a total of 14 strips on the left and 7 on the right.  I need a total of 24 strips wide to make up the approximately 3 inch wide double track sub-roadbed for the N-scale spline helix. You can also see some of the wax paper that I use on the risers (at the bottom of the picture) to keep the laminated strips from gluing themselves to the risers.  It is much easier to rip off the wax paper than trying to pry the spline up from the risers.

The picture below shows how I've added a strip to the right side to make it now 8 strips wide plus the two (2) vertical spacers to keep it 24 strips wide.  This is the point where I start using the furniture clamps to pull the whole thing together.  The spring clamps are capable of holding the laminations together out to about 14-15 strips.  You could do the whole 24 strips working from the outside to the inside (without doing the inside track like I've done) but then you will have to use the furniture clamps for the last 7-8 strips rather than only using them for the last 2-3 strips.  I found that out when I built the first section of the spline helix.

6 September additions:

The picture below shows the last 2 strips have been added and the entire section has been clamped for overnight drying. 

This is when I really have to use all of my larger furniture clamps to ensure that everything stays together for drying.

The picture below shows the section just after the previous picture.  I have a total of 23 strips here plus the one spacer.  Later today I will add the last strips.  The final one has glue on both sides.  For the most part, I try to glue the strips smooth to smooth side and rough to rough side.  To the right, you can see some of the ends that have been cut off from previous sections of the spline helix.

The clamps have been removed after drying overnight.  This is what the 24 strip wide sub-roadbed looks like before using the surform tool to smooth it.  I use the tool on both top and bottom of the spline.  I found a hardware tool place on Amazon that sells the replacement blades for 75% less than you can get them in the local hardware/big box stores.  You will need a lot of blades, almost one per section as they wear out fast on the hardboard.

The picture below shows my glue tools.  It is cheaper to buy the glue by the gallon and replace it in the applicator or smaller bottle of glue.  I use a cup of water with a brush to spread the glue to ensure that it covers the strip completely.  I also use a dampened sponge to wipe the glue from the bottom of the spline when each successive strip is clamped as well as using the brush to spread the glue oozing on the top.  By doing both of those tasks, the amount of scrapping with the surform tool is drastically reduced.  I found that out after the first section of spline was done one way and I used this process on the second section of the helix.

Finally, this is the last curve with the 22d strip drying plus 2 spacers.  Later today, I will add the last two strips and let it dry overnight.  I usually allow about an hour to an hour and a half between adding strips with the regular spring clamps when building the helix.

If someone is interested in more detail that I have provided, just ask me.  I do appreciate everyone's comments on my previous posts.  More to follow.....

John