fernpoint

The Prototype: 6a_0-4-0.jpg 

The Model (before) :

switch_1.jpg 

I  bought this on eBay because:

a) as a 15 year old school kid I worked Saturdays in our local hobby store and used to sell these locomotives and kind of fell in love with something I couldn't afford and
b) it was incredibly cheap.

The original model ran like a dog, so needed a full strip down, clean and rebuild.

After that it gave a surprisingly good performance for such an old model with high gearing.

This loco has a 3 pole ‘pancake’ style motor which although a bit noisy runs well, with lots of torque at slow speed. It also means daylight under the boiler and a bit of cab room which is unusual for a 40 year old locomotive model.

switch_3.jpg 

This was also my first attempt at fitting DCC and this proved reasonably straightforward.

I had a spare Bachmann tender, so used the trucks and 4+2 pin sockets for the conversion. I also added as much weight as possible because the switcher tended is light as a feather in stock form.

The light bulbs are fitted with miniature plug and socket connections to make assembly and maintenance easier.

Even so, power pick up through the truck mounting screws was poor so I hardwired the decoder power inputs to the truck pickups – much better!

switch_4.jpg 

Performance is reasonable without being stunning. I used a rather obscure Hornby Sapphire decoder and have an NCE Power Cab.

Back EMF is a no-go with very jerky performance. After a bit of research I installed a thrust block to get rid of all motor end float, but that didn’t seem to help with this particular problem. It did however remove ‘bucking’ when going down steeper grades on my small logging railroad.

Also the decoder seems to shut down after a few seconds (lights go off) when speed is reduced to zero.  I’m not sure if this is an issue with either the Decoder or the NCE command unit?

switch_2.jpg 

Loco modifications include extra hand rails, Cal Scale air pump and generator, scratch built injectors, sand pipes, air and power lines. New front and rear lights are courtesy of spares for a Rivarossi Heisler that will be another project. Crew are from Selley.

The Pizza Cutter driver flanges were turned down a little using a Dremel while spinning them under motor power, but to be honest the process was very stressful and I held back. I also chemically blackened the wheels and this compensates a little for still oversized flanges.

To get some painting knowledge, I invested in Jeff Johnston’s “How to Paint a Steam Locomotive “ DVDs and I can’t recommend then highly enough. Everything you need to know and then some – thanks Jeff!

My only deviation from Jeff’s guidance was to avoid using a protective varnish. I prefer to leave the weathering powders un-covered to get maximum texture. I avoid handling my locomotives so this isn’t an issue.

The Model (after):

switch_5.jpg 

Overall I am pretty happy. As a low buck training exercise it’s been a total success. The final results are usable on the railroad as well………

The only problem I have with this hobby is that every time I finish a task. I immediately think of a better way of doing it. Knowing when to stop is another problem. Each time I go back to the prototype photo, I see more stuff I could add.

To make any kind of progress I have to strictly apply the “Good Enough” rule and file the idea away for the next time I do this task.

On to “Job 2” – Detailing a Mantua Mallet; coincidentally also inspired by an old Jeff Johnston magazine article.

I’ll get back to you in a few weeks ……………………..

Reply 0
kcsphil1

Very nicely done

Not only did you get a chance to hone some skills, but you managed to relive some cherished memories.  Double win if you ask me!

Philip H. Chief Everything Officer Baton Rouge Southern Railroad, Mount Rainier Div.

"You can't just "Field of Dreams" it... not matter how James Earl Jones your voice is..." ~ my wife

My Blog Index

Reply 0
TTX101

Talk about an improvement!

Great job of turning the "dog" into a nice piece of work!  Thanks for posting the prototype photo, too - it obviously helped a lot as a guide; your revised model looks great; show us a picture or two when it gets to work!

Roger

Rog.38

 
Reply 0
East Rail

Love it!

Very nicely done. Your subtle weathering turned this into a handsome model. Lance

Visit the Downtown Spur at http://www.lancemindheim.com

Reply 0
DKRickman

Oil those rods!

Speaking from painful personal experience, the side rods on a steam loco, and especially the cheaper ones made of stamped steel, MUST have oil, or they can saw through the crank pins.  I also use a small drop of oil on the guides, and anywhere else that moving parts touch.

Good looking model, by the way.  I am impressed with how un-toy-like it looks now, and that tender really suits it.

Next time, try taking the drivers out and filing down the flanges by hand.  It's a lot easier on the model, and less likely to get bits of metal where you don't want them.

Ken Rickman

Danville & Western HO modeler and web historian

http://southern-railway.railfan.net/dw/

Reply 0
Bernd

Side Rods

Another thing to do with those stamped side rods is to de-burr the holes. Also run a file across the corners of any of the stamped parts. I don't believe that anybody at the factory takes the time to round the corners on such stuff.

Bernd

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds - NCSWIC

Reply 0
JRG1951

What A Great Project!

I have always liked these little AHM models. I like yours even more.

Regards,

John

***********************************************************************************************************************************

Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing. Oliver Wendell Holmes

BBA_LOGO.gif 

Reply 0
Reply