Clean the slots in the commutator

You could clean the commutator slots with a pin. Might help. There's a video on YouTube showing how to tune up old open frame motors. The Tri-ang X04 isn't the same as yours, but the video should give you some ideas. I would wear eye protection when following the tips given.

Newer magnet

may help the noise problem. I can't remember were it was I saw an article on replacing the old magnet in an open frame motor with the newer neodymium magnets. Supposed to make the motor run better. Makes sense to me. Anybody seen this article? It was in a railroad publication that I read this just can't remember were.

Here's one of many stores that sells these types of magnets:  http://www.magnet4less.com/

Bernd

P.S. If you try this let us know if it works. I have a couple of those old MDC engines, a 4-6-0, 2-6-2 and two narrow gauge engines in HOn3.

I'm suspecting that most of the noise is probably gear noise.

Unless the motor is not fastened securely and vibrating against the frame or body, I suspect most of the noise will be gear noise.  Does it have straight cut brass gears?  If you don't see any evidence of "flash" on any of the gears, try cleaning out the gear box and put little dab of toothpaste on the worm and run the loco to let the toothpaste "lap" in the gear train.  Then disassemble and thoroughly clean the gears and gear box.  Reassemble and lube it and see if it runs more quietly.  

Roundhouse motors

This is the motor in my Roundhouse 1998 2-6-0 and 2008 2-6-0, plus the 4-4-0 and 2-8-0. You can get them from Athearn. All three use the identical frame/motor/gear drive. Driver slots different. A nice motor that draws about 450ma and has a flywheel.. Snaps into a plastic motor holder that is secured to the frame by two screws.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/richg1998/Roundhouse%20steamers/Typicaldrive.jpg

I suspect the bearings may be worn and contributing to the noise. I have that 2-8-0 bashed into a Winans Camel 0-8-0 and is quiet. Not much running time.

Rich

Drop in replacements?

Rich,

Are the newer motors drop-in replacements for the older models, or is some modification of the frame, swapping gears, etc. required?  Also, do you know how much Athearn wants for them?

Motor

It appears to be drop in but no idea on the worm size on the motor. My older 2-8-0 with brass tires is such that I cannot remove the boiler when I bashed it into a 0-8-0.

I have done some regearing with NWSL MDC gears. The 45 to 1 is a nice set. MDC/Roundhouse has used the compound gear arrangement for many years.

http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/cat_chap4_for_web.pdf

The 1998 2-6-0 and 2008 2-6-0 look identical.

About 1998 the original Roundhouse company was having some made in China before the company was sold to Horizon Hobbies and somehow associated with Athearn.

I would contact Athearn as I have bought different parts from them that fit the Roundhouse locos I have right now. The 4-4-0, 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 are identical except for driver slots. Tender frames the same also and the trucks are all wheel pickup. The new frames have a speaker hole for 28mm speaker.

Below is a link to HO Seeker and many different loco diagrams are there. The new 4-4-0, 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 are there but the part numbers are different and as far as I know, Athearn does not have a cross reference for part numbers.

http://www.hoseeker.net/mdcmiscellaneous.html

Rich

motor with the newer neodymium magnets. Supposed to make the motor run better. Makes sense to me. Anybody seen this article? It was in a railroad publication that I read this just can't remember were.< < < <

See:

http://sh1.webring.com/people/ib/budb3/index.html

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/themes/trc/forums/thread.aspx?ThreadID=131845&PostID=2041304&PermaPostID=2041304

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/120264/1971194.aspx

http://www.model-railroad-infoguy.com/locomotive-motor-tips.html

Here are a few links I found on Google. I have remagnetized open frame motors with stronger magnets and it worked great. These were the pitman rear magnet type motor found in most of the old brass engines. It is a lot easier than replacing the motor and trying to match gears.

Jerome