water & foam

I don't think you'd be able to use the WS E-Z water product as you have to heat it first, which would probably melt your foam.  The "Realistic Water" product looks like it would be ok as it appears to be a clear acrylic.  I would first paint the surface with acrylic paint before applying the water.  This will both seal the foam and give the model water a more realistic appearance.  Since the model water will be very thin, you'll want to add colour to give the illusion of the depth you would like to convey.  Lighter colours will make the model water appear shallower, darker colours will appear deeper.

For attaching ground cover to your steep cliff faces there are a couple of approaches you can take.  Since your layout doesn't look overly large and is made with lightweight foam tipping it to the side may be feasible.  If that's not an option you can dump some scenery material on a slightly folded piece of cardstock and then, holding it beside your cliff, gently blow the material onto the surface.  You'd need a coat of adhesive on the cliff first, I would recommend thinned white glue.  I have used the latter method successfully on my layout.

Add a layer of plaster first

Generally, adding a layer of plaster onto the foam first is a good idea.

The plaster allows you to make small adjustments to the contours and better blend in things, You can give the area a uniform dirt color and texture because all the areas, now covered with a layer of plaster, will take color the same.

Welcome to MRH, and we hope we can help your model railroading pursuits be as successful for you as possible.

Using Realistic Water on top of foam

I would strongly advise you to seal the extruded insulation foam with a thin coat of plaster and then painting it BEFORE putting down any Realistic Water.

I didn't seal the foam, just painted it with acrylic paint, and it appears that the foam gives off a gas, causing lots of bubbles to come up through the Realistic Water.  Putting down more layers of Realistic Water (after popping the bubbles) did not solve the problem.  Sealing the entire river bed is essential - the Realistic Water seems to find even the smallest pinprick holes to flow into (don't ask me how I know!)

You will also need to create a dam at the edge of the baseboard, otherwise the Realistic Water will just run off onto the floor.

For securing the ground foam, paint the foam with a diluted (50:50 with water) white glue mix or tan / earth color acrylic paint, then sprinkle on the ground foam.  Then gently spray rubbing alcohol over the ground foam to wet it, which will help the glue/paint soak into the ground foam to secure it.  To add more layers, spray more alcohol to soak the existing ground foam, sprinkle on more ground foam (use several earth / grass colors) then dribble the dilute glue/water mix over the top until it shows. Allow to dry.  For bushes, etc, use clumps of the foliage mix.  Dip the piece into white glue and place on the layout as desired.

I would advise putting a drop cloth under the layout to protect the floor - it's amazing how much mess scenery construction makes!

Enjoy - you can go on adding more layers of foam and foliage until you get the results you like. 

John Senior

Woodland Scenics

Since you're using the WS products, they have some decent how-to tips on their website http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/index.cfm These are video how-tos using their own products, and includes a helpful water modeling video.

They offer a product called foam putty that could help you blend your base terrain before adding ground foam.

Rather than using caulk to "mark" the edge of the stream, you may be happier if you continue to carve a depression for the stream along the base of the rocks to the stream's 'origin' on your layout. This will be messy and more work, but it will keep all the water surfaces below the 'grade' surface of your terrain.

Any place you use the WS 'water products' needs to be completely sealed as stated above, or the 'water' will leak out and make a big mess. The area poured also needs to be level, because when the 'water' is poured it will flow to a level surface. This is very important, or you could end up with 1/2 inch depth in one area and no depth in another. (Don't ask!)

Where the river widens, consider cutting the edges back at an angle to lessen the 'cliff' effect.

Looks like you're having fun! I hope this helps.

Jeff

Stream bed prep

I agree with what has been said so far about water.  I will add that if you wish to have some detail of the stream bed visible under the water, ie; gravel, rocks, a sunken log, old tire etc. place these details on the stream bed with glue before pouring your water.

I'll second the suggestion that you continue to carve the foam for the steam rather than using a bead of caulk on the top of the foam.

Thanks for Great Suggestions

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. I suspect you have all saved me some interesting learning experiences. I will keep the forum updated on my progress.

Thanks,

John