Gregory Latiak GLatiak

The Deseronto Yard is proceeding. The row of Humpyard levers has been installed next to the control panel. It seems to make a lot of sense for operating a bunch of turnouts packed into a tight space and right close to the operator. I had started out using Tortoise motors but realized that it was getting pretty expensive and it was hard to keep the rather bulky units from interfering with each other.

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Eventually there wiill be a nice color-coded label on all the levers (there are twenty of them) and it has been interesting thinking through what the logical groupings are for operating the turnouts. Just to the right of the throttle can be seen the corner of the control panel -- for now its just the track diagram taped to the underside of the plexiglass. Eventually there will be a sheet of aluminum supporting the art work and controls -- right now it is more of a dust cover over rows of barrier strips for terminating the DS64 cables.

So far I have two of the levers connected up. Bending a dog-leg on each wire provided the necessary spring to hold the turnout positively in each position. It also absorbs any mismatch in throw length. My approach has been to stake the turnout in the center position with a pin and then center the lever and mount the cable on the underside. This seems to work fairly well but is pretty tedious as I need to be on both sides of the benchwork to align it. I am trying to dream up an alignment jig to help the process. Superficially it is pretty trivial but the alignment and position of the cable end under the turnout is pretty finicky.

The yard itself is pretty much stable although some of the trackwork is still pretty rough. I am starting to appreciate the constraints of using commercial turnouts in tight spaces and am wishing I had had the courage to go down the hand-laid road -- oh well. A lot of learning curves in this exercise.

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Wire for track feeds is still being soldered in place. In this end of the yard there are probably a dozen connections -- all tied to some small scale barrier strips on the underside. In this picture one can see the Ro-Ro elevator on the wall to the left -- this provides a staging yard that takes up precious little room and will be operated from the control panel using DCC-by-Design's enhanced controls.

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One thing about this layout is that it is entirely moveable and can be pulled out from the wall and moved about in case we need to access the window or the heat pump mounted on the wall over the Ro-Ro. The legs all have teflon biscuits on the bottom so slide remarkably easily on the carpet. Keeping weight down and everything tight has been a challenge -- i do envy the people with huge basements that can afford the luxury of bolting things in place. But if this were any larger I would probably not live long enough to complete it. As is, I am amazed at how deceptively small this project seemed.

Gregory Latiak

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Greg Amer gregamer

I like it. I've been eyeing

I like it. I've been eyeing those Humpyard levers for a while, were they difficult to install? Maybe I'll use them on a future project. I'd love to see a video of that RORO elevator.G

 

Greg

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kcsphil1

they are easy

in that they are mechanically simple and have good instructions.  I need to get some more for the next segment of the layout, but I like them!

Philip H. Chief Everything Officer Baton Rouge Southern Railroad, Mount Rainier Div.

"You can't just "Field of Dreams" it... not matter how James Earl Jones your voice is..." ~ my wife

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Gregory Latiak GLatiak

Installing Humpyard Levers

The Humpyard levers themselves are pretty straightforward. I found the spacing template a bit optimistic in how closely the levers could be spaced -- but not by much. The fit of the screws provided is quite tight. The brass wood screws provided with the kit drove me crazy -- I am much more comfortable using Robertson head screws so installed the levers using #4 with washers.

The cable connection to the turnout is also simple. One cuts the provided cable to length, strips the sheath and bends the necessary shape. I found that bending a dogleg on the end provided additional springiness to hold the points in place. The little clamp provided (there are many ways of hooking these up) worked but getting the end in the right position to work the points was a bit tricky. I cannot quite reach the lever from where I have to work and the layout is a bit too low for comfortable working under -- this adds difficulty not intrinsic to the product.

What has been working for me is to stake the points in the middle position, position the lever in the mid-point, and then install the cable from underneith, trying to keep it centered untill the screw is secure. Mistake so far was to cut the sheath too short, bend the cable and then realize that there was not enough travel to work the points. Other error was to let the cable shift while screwing it so things were no longer aligned.

COmpared to Tortoise motors and Atlas solenoids, though, it is a pretty decent solution and economical when there is a high density turnout situation to control. I found the powered solutions to be much fussier, although my inexperience is probably a big factor, together with sloppy trackwork I am sure.

There are a number of videos of the Ro-Ro available on the internet. I will do a video of mine when I get done, but that wont be for a while.

Gregory Latiak

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