Photos

The three photos below are Alkem fences

The following are wire mesh scratch built

Alkem Scale Models

It's actually Alkem Scale Models ... if you search for Alkem Products you will get Alkem Laboratories.

More precisely, here's a link to the chain link fence product:
https://alkemscalemodels.biz/chain-link-fence

Thanks Joe

I shoulda' looked it up¡ I corrected my post.

Some Very Good looking fences'

Nice work Rick.. Great looking fences'... Where did you get, and what size is the mesh for your scratch built fences?

Alkem's fencing is one of the

Alkem's fencing is one of the best. I just went through 3 sheets of it. Easy to install.

thanks Goobs

I bought the stainless steel mesh on Ebay probably 6-7 years ago and I can't seem to find the same seller again.

here's a link to a seller that seems to have the same product. I found a scrap of what I used and the mesh counted out to around 35-37 holes per linear inch. used for HO scale. Cut it on the diagonal to use as chain link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401517353687?hash=item5d7c4c9ad7:g:a3EAAOSwX5ZbI2VE

if i find the original seller I'll send you his info.

@Rick

Rick,

Thanks for answering my question from the cell phone thread, and for starting this new thread on the fences.

Your photos and modeling are, as usual, top notch and inspiring.  Definitely makes me want to rip out the Walthers fence I built and build a new one with your methods and materials.

Dare I ask what your techniques are for the barbed wire?  

Al Carter, Mount Vernon, WA

Fencing material?

Hi Rick, Have you ever tried the nylon bridal tulle material? I've seen it in a galvanized silver color which might just need some subtle weathering to finish off.....DaveB

@Al

Hey Al,

 As you are probably aware the Alkem fencing has the barb wire already attached at the top of the fence. Just bend it to the correct angle. NOTE* If, like me, you bend it too many times as you hit it with hands, tools etc. when you are finishing up the scene around it.........it breaks off easily and then it is a royal pain in the butt. I've tried many ways to re-attach it in place and the best solution is to sink a new vertical wire behind the fence at every pole then bend the wire over the top of the fence at the appropriate angle. Superglue the detached barbwire sections to the new poles and trim the angled top of the new poles to the proper length...........so the moral of the story is protect the installed fence so you don't have to do this.

The scratch built fence is a whole different animal. I bend the top of the posts and trim them to the proper size before placing them into the scene. After they have been secured and everything is solid I run Berkshire Juction E-Z Line which is a very fine elastic material that I use for power lines on power poles. Three lines starting with the line closest to the chainlink and work your way out. Anyway, tag one end to the starting point and pull gently to the next pole and super glue as you go. I often dab a little bit of gray or rust paint on the barbwire.

I attempted to find a link to their website to attach here and this is what I got.

The product you want is Fine-Black. It is also available from retailers and usually Ebay.

Hi Dave

Good to hear from you. I've really been enjoying your current layout build. Great prototype!

Tulle........well I tried it many years ago and it just wasn't for me. I've seen others use it successfully but I tend to be pretty rough with materials and any time I worked with tulle I either screwed it up early on or if it survived original construction eventually I snagged it and I could never pull it into shape again like i can with the stainless steel.

IIRC my issues were:

Too lightweight. Easily stretched or torn. Or it frayed along the edges.

Difficult to attach to poles without getting glue showing through.

Not strong. You better have the poles REALLY solid 'cause that's all the support your fence is going to have. With SS mesh you have the advantage of a stiff/stable material that ties the fence together into a pretty solid structure.

And the pièce de résistance........it doesn't look right to me. Too fine a' mesh. Doesn't take paint well. Just sort of creeps me out.

Weddings.....YIKES!

Catch 'ya a little further down the road,

 Rickl

Tulle, SS, and Plastic Fences'...

Thanks Rick for the information.  I also tried Tulle, but di not like the final results.... I've had good results with plastic from Scenic Express.  I have real metal fencing from Brennans' Models. it requires soldering. I will try some on the new layout in the future.... I must say though... your scratch built look like the real ticket as they are not perfect.  That is the key.. to excellent modeling imperfections..... and that skill is evident in all your work'.... 

Tulle as fencing

My experience with tulle is exactly the opposite. I've used it to make a number of fences in N scale, from single gates to 6 foot long runs over uneven terrain. The "silver" (grey) bridal veil material come in a roll sufficient for several lifetimes of fencing, and requires no painting when constructed over bus wire frames.

The rigidity Goober cites as an "advantage" to metal fencing I see as a detriment, as it won't allow you to bend the fencing to follow variations in grade.

I'll grant that the tulle doesn't match N scale perfectly, but even with the too-wide openings between the wire, it presents the correct impression with the diagonal orientation  of the wire, at FAR less cost than etched metal of any kind.

I've done a full tutorial on making chain link fencing with tulle ( including the barbed wire topper strands ) available on my T Trak Wiki pages ( linked in my sig below )

Tulle as Fencing

I've had pretty good results using tulle as fencing.  I used it in the photos below.  The fence posts are brass, the fencing is tulle and for the barbed wire, I cut a single strand of fiberglass mesh screen door material, twisted it and then glued with CA to the brass uprights.  Then I painted the whole thing silver and dry brushed rust and dirt colors to give it an aged look.  The barbed wire looks a little too prominent in the photos, but doesn't overpower in real life. 

The soft material allowed me to cut and bend the fence to show that it doesn't stop the "vandals" from going through. 

Nice work Rick

Yeah I agree Alkem Scale Models make a really fine (in both quality & scale) chain-link fencing. I ordered several sheets of the product from Bernie a few years back and have used it on several scenes / dioramas with good results 

Photo below of a small substation protected by appropriately weathered ASM chain-link fence 

Hi Steve!

That is one fine looking substation and the fencing really adds a lot! 

Thanks for joining in and I really look forward to seeing more 

barr_ceo and VSOTTO

Well.........you guys nailed it

Two very different looks and both high quality modeling. One is well worn and one is a solid security fence.

barr.......that is an excellent tutorial. Kudos.

Hobby Lobby option

I ran across this product at Hobby Lobby that looks like it would make great fencing. 

Stainless Steel or Brass?

Do you have any trouble painting the Stainless Steel? Natural SS to me doesn't look like the Galvanized Steel wire used on these fences. The filter mesh is available in Brass too and the wire size seems to be more in "scale" than the SS.

Fencing

I just love that fence!   Outstanding job!

Chain link fence

Thanks to all for your ideas and examples.  Here is an example of my attempt at chain link using soldered brass posts, veil material and twisted 38ga wire.  Not great, but looks ok from a comfortable distance.   Ed Sproles   

Scott

Heyo' Scott!

 Yeah, That Hobby Lobby stuff has potential. The wire size relative to hole size looks really good. Looking at the photo it looks like the weave may be too large for HO. I sized the photo using the dimensions of commercially available pegboard and then took a photo of a piece of Alkem and sized it using measurements from a caliper. that's the photo below. I'm not 100% sure of my accuracy but it seams right. Not having a Hobby Lobby store in my area I can't go check it out in person. If it looks like I messed up the comparison please let me know 'cause your the only one to have laid eyes on it in the "wild". Being that it is metal (aluminum) and inexpensive it is definitely worth looking into.

Graeme

Yeah,

 Brass does seem to have good proportions. If you do some fencing with it I'd love to see how it works out. It'd be a lot easier to solder too.

 Painting. Yes, I do paint my fencing before glue/soldering it together and haven't encountered any issues. I'm laying a light coat of paint (Floquil CN Gray #17) with an airbrush.

Mopac Jack

Thanks for checking in. Not totally sure which is "that" fence but I think that we've got a lotta good ones here........it's turning into a fun thread.

Ed

That veil material has some of the best proportions I have seen. Are we talkin' HO scale here?

Looks real cool to me!