Unpainted photo for clarity

 sorry the photo placement is not upright.

Clarification of above question

I asked if anyone knew how much time I have to place the decal.

clarification: how much time traditionally with the microsol (the red bottle stuff) before I cannot maneuver the decal? 
also, if it isn’t right what do I do to remove  microsol applied decal ?

 

Safety Stripes

I’m not sure how you could apply a decal over all that detail and have it come out looking good.  I painted safety stripes on the grill of my diesel using masking tape and these instructions (https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8649).

It was tedious work and I didn’t have all the raised details like your project but I suspect painting with an airbrush is the best way to get decent results.  You would be able to adjust your tape stripes over and around the details until you were satisfied before painting.  After the masking tape was removed the next step would be to go in with a fine brush and touch up the parts that bled through.  I painted black on yellow but since you have a black background you would paint orange on black which should work well for touching up with black afterwards.  The instructions in the link are pretty good.

- Tom

Paint stripes

I agree with Tom. I find it easier to mask and paint stripes around details like that. You might look for prototype photos to see how they simplify the paint in these areas, so full stripes might not be needed....DaveB

Cut into 3 pieces, at least

Do the area above the coupler box separately. 

Position the decals using MicroSet (blue label, basically weak acetic acid), then apply MicroSol (red label) sparingly after you are happy with the position.  Be prepared to make multiple applications.

Good luck.  Decaling over high relief details is never fun.

Scott Chatfield 

What a difficult challenge my

What a difficult challenge my friend!

Tom, thanks for the link. I

Tom, thanks for the link. I consider this method to be mostly a project unto itself! It makes sense to me. It opens up a new experience but is somewhat less intimidated seeing that slow methodical application and touch up would work. The exact masking set up is key.
btw, your model looks awesome! Your stripe application is nice work. 

DaveB, partial applications may be better than none.
 

Scott, I thought your suggestion of the separate applications with the center one around the coupler box being the anchoring portion might work. I have six of these decals to make three attempts (or kills).  Sweaty palms activity. Not sure I will Nail it. I can always go to plan B. Go out and get the model masking tape and right color orange tape. At least the decal will be a good template.
 

Jack!  What can I say. This may truly be my Waterloo! Lol.

So, back to the drawing board. At least I don't engage this without options. Thank you for your ideas, experience and advice. It’s going to be somewhat a thriller! And this is the most challenging part of this project. Here I go.
will update on progress. 

Transfer 

One other question

Should I use decals and they don’t suffice, what does one do to remove them? How is that done?

thanks.

removing paint / decals

I use an "air eraser" - more or less a slightly modified airbrush that is a micro-sized sand blaster. They're about $40 on Amazon. I use aluminum oxide grit, although others have used special baking soda. It's great for really removing all old surface treatments, far better than liquid based things since it really and truly gets into corners and crevices. A brass model looks like brass and solder when you get done with this process, and it also has a "tooth" to it that helps the primer. It also works well on plastic models. The only downside is that of course you need to keep the grit out of any motors or gearing, but of course that applies to liquid strippers too.

I have experimentally used the air eraser to selectively remove a top coat of paint / decals, revealing a lower coat - similar to the way military modelers use chipping solution. I haven't quite mastered the technique yet, but I've definitely been able to get pretty close. With a steady hand, the air eraser very close to the surface (1/8"?) and relatively low air pressure, there's a pretty good chance that you can get the decal off without removing much of the underlying paint.

I agree with Scott

Don't try to do it in one piece. Cut it into sections larger than you need. When dry and positioned you can trim the edges with a razor blade or some such device. I've applied several SP Tiger Stripes and this is the best way I found. Solvaset is your friend.

Espee over Donner

Looking closely, maybe Found a Plan A

There are so few prototype photos of #11. the one I found most interesting and revealing may be copyrighted so I won’t post it unless I get permission or buy the scan. It is of #11 photographed on a turn table. The pilot shows the stripes inside a space on the model in between two vertical bolted bars. This is a measurable panel area where the cut decal might fit in well.  So for example, one side placement would be measured cut, Next the opposing side same thing. Then a strip across nearing the top. I will place a decal diagram from an additional set I bought. I think the three part application May work. 

will photograph and post little diagram next.

The diagram here

I think with som modification made across the top it can work 

I anticipate lining up the top stripes with the two side panels may be challenging.

So 1 for the money, 2 for the show, 3 to get ready And…

Four, take a lunch break and talk my self into it.

then Go.

the worse that can happen might but I have a six of these waiting for the slaughter! Lol.

Question about solvaset

Why would solvaset be better than say microsol or microset?

whats your experience tell you?

Solvaset is stronger

Solvaset is the same basic chemical solution as MicroSol, but a stronger solution and I think it has a little extra of another chemical to give it more oomph.  I use MicroSol first, especially when working with really thin decals like Microscale's, and only use Solvaset on the stubborn spots.  Do not let Solvaset pool on a decal.  Apply it and spread it out.  It'll "burn" a hole in a decal if you let large drops sit on it. 

There are other decal solvents that are chemically different from Solvaset and MicroSol, but those are the two that are easiest to get.

Scott Chatfield 

playing with making

playing with making measurements, templates, cutting decal material with scalpel and X acto #11.

so I made an experimental rough first run. too bad I made it upside down! so DumbA**.lol. won't make that mistake again! anyway, it was the sacraficial decal. cutting this material I quite tricky. 

here's a quick photo of what I did.same bad pic twice for ? reason! refinement is a matter of quality control & nerve! will try again another time. gotta work on precision vertical cutting next time  

.

once properly cut out

it will fit in the two vertcal columns. the top horozontally limb will have some details to go through. need to get more scalpel blades. learned a lot today.

again mostly what I shouldn't do!

Re: Solvaset is stronger

Solvaset's strength helps settle decals over over surface protrusions, but it can be too powerful at times.  Diluting Solvaset 50% with distilled water provides a longer working time for moving a decal into final position.

FWIW, my usual process is to scrub the decal area with the 50% mixture, apply the decal, move it into position, and then apply the full strength Solvaset around the edges and over protrusions to help snuggle the decal in place.

Here's an ancient Silver Streak body with scratched wooden sides that gives an idea of how Solvaset can snuggle decals into the grooves:

(Looks like I need to be reminded that the replacement trucks still have to be weathered.)

Prototype Close ups

these are what project should resemble.

Re: Prototype Close ups

The proto photos show that  the stripes are applied only to the flat basic structure.  None are over protrusions such as handrails, couplers, poling pockets or step supports.

A suggestion for striping your model with decals would be to first create a paper pattern.  Cut out the overall size first, then slit to fit over protrusions, and finally trim to clear the coupler, step supports, and poling pockets. 

Use the pattern to cut out the overall decal, then cut the decal into 3 parts: One each upside down "L" shape to fit between the step supports and poling pocket; and the 3rd piece to fit over the coupler area.  Apply each piece with your choice of decal solvent.  (As before, my choice would be 50% Solvaset/distilled water followed by full strength Solvaset.)

Looking forward to seeing the finished results,

Paper template

I would make a paper template first before cutting into a decal......paper is cheap, decals are not cheap........I did this for my HO scale SD40-2 a few years ago.

BR GP30 2300

I am experimenting with the paper template model as well. Thanks.

your SD 40 model pilot stripes are awesome! Great job. I appreciate your answer and photo.

Good clear instructions

Thanks Don, your reply is welcomed with good clear instructions. 
making measurements for a paper pattern and closely observing adaptability.

I too am looking fwd to seeing the finished results! Lol. 
all in the experience of living in the moment, there’s a first time for everything! 
thanks again.

transfer

Dry transfer materials?

Well, the more I make the templates for the decals the less enthusiastic I become! 
its kind of like this pilot striping will either make or break the project. I have some people saying I should just avoid the opportunity to kill it. They add Put it together and just run it. I answer  ‘Nuff said. 
on a different forum an astute precise modeler stated that he sometimes does stripe at a time, slowly methodically!  WOW! His stripes on his H O models are amazing!

while there is evidence that this makes sense I was wondering if using try transfer material might work?

Kind of stuck undecided. Question1) Would dry transfer material stick to high gloss painted brass? 
                                         Question 2) if yes to question 1, any info on obtainability in the right orange color? Who sells dry transfer material. Question 3) can dry transfer material be clear coated successfully?

back to the drawing board. The homemade  templates are being redesigned for now.

I never do anything simply, except shelve projects! Lol.

thanks for any advice or help.