Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Back in the December 2013 MRH, Bernie Halloran wrote of using rolled vinyl for backdrop coving - http://mrhpub.com/2013-12-dec/land/files/assets/basic-html/index.html?fbclid=IwAR1JWtVnm3afguuQHyW7_znm31mdVVdUvuMN6gic-qNrzna1CPL0FyT8JXQ#126 .  I'm really happy he did so, because it really did make the job very easy, and it worked great for for my peninsula backdrop as well.  More details in my first reply.

Joe Atkinson
Modeling Iowa Interstate's 4th Sub, May 2005
https://m.facebook.com/groups/iowainterstate4thsub

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Reply 1
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Backdrops

A couple updates on this topic:

  1. Rolled vinyl is no longer available through Home Depot, but Michael Petersen of Iowa Scaled Engineering shared that the 24"x50' YorkShield white vinyl flashing is available from MasonPro by emailing Tony Decia < tony@masonpro.com> .  As of February, it was $56 plus $23.75 for shipping (but like everything else, that's probably gone up since then), or you can get the 18"x50' at  https://www.walmart.com/ip/York-RESYSVN12-50-WH-Vinyl-Multi-Purpose-Flashing-Roll-12-W-x-600-L-in/390502128 .
  2. I finally got around to installing the 24" wide vinyl flashing I bought from MasonPro recently, and it worked exactly as Bernie said.  For coving, it couldn't be simpler, and it went in really fast.  You just measure the height of the scene, cut the vinyl to length with scissors, apply the cove base adhesive, and position the vinyl.  Here are a few pics:

IMG_9578.JPG 

IMG_9579.JPG 

IMG_9581.JPG 

(And yes, I wish I'd thought about the coving when I had the cold air return placed there.  It's frustrating when you're building a layout that's intended to correct the mistakes you made in your old one...but then you just find new mistakes to make. )

Finally, here's the peninsula backdrop, built with the same vinyl.  I forgot to take in-progress pics of the support system, but it's just 1x2 and 1x4 vertical supports (the latter only because I ran out of 1x2s and wanted to use up the material I had on hand), with 3"x8' Masonite strips running horizontally along the top and bottom, attached to the vertical supports using adhesive caulk.  I got the idea for the latter from Rick Gartrell ("HN1951" here).  I attached the vinyl to the Masonite using the same cove base adhesive used on the coved corners, then clamped as it dried.

IMG_9577.JPG 

IMG_9580.JPG 

I'm currently mudding and sanding the points where the vinyl meets the wall, then plan to finish the priming and painting over the next couple days.  I hope to post an update at that time.

Reply 3
Michael Petersen petersenm

Looking Good!

Joe, that look really good.  Nice job!

How did you keep the vinyl from falling over or bending as you installed it?  Did you progressively unroll the vinyl as you attached it to the supports?

Michael

 

Reply 1
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Michael

Quote:

How did you keep the vinyl from falling over or bending as you installed it?  Did you progressively unroll the vinyl as you attached it to the supports?

Thanks Michael.  My method was to unroll several feet, rest the roll standing up further down the benchwork, then clamp the vinyl to the Masonite strips.  I'd then spread more cove base adhesive down the next few feet and repeat the process.

I have to say, though, while the coved corners can be done easily by one person, the peninsula backdrop would have been much easier with one or two helpers.  I underestimated how difficult it'd be to position the backdrop and apply the clamps while trying to prevent the roll from throwing things off.

Reply 1
jimfitch

Do you have any photo's of

Do you have any photo's of the support structure for the peninsula backdrop?  I will need to be installing something like that.  I was thinking of hardboard but not sure how curve-able it is

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Jim

Hi Jim - I forgot to take in-progress pics of the support system, but it's just 1x2 and 1x4 vertical supports, with 3"x8' Masonite strips running horizontally along the top and bottom, attached to the vertical supports using adhesive caulk.  I got the idea for the latter from Rick Gartrell ("HN1951" here).

Reply 2
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Finished

I finished sanding, priming, and painting the coving, peninsula backdrop, and cold air returns literally the moment that visitors starting arriving today.  This is the OS Omaha op session weekend, and my goal was to have the backdrops done for the open house.  Mission accomplished!

IMG_9589.JPG 

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Reply 3
CP Rail Vermont

Backdrops Looking Great

Hey Joe,

Backdrops look great and they make a huge difference in separating scenes around the layout.  

-Neil Schofield

Reply 1
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Neil

Thanks Neil.  Nice to have that step behind me.

Now if I could just solve my ballast problem!  I finally got my AR&M order, but the "white limestone" was...orangey-tan. 

IMG_9588.JPG 

I'm hoping they'll take care of it and that they have something much closer to very light gray or white that I can exchange for. 

What's in the foreground was what I sifted from bulk limestone purchased at a local landscape rock supplier.  While I love the color and variation, it took 90 minutes to sift enough for about 3' of track, and I think it's still too large.

Reply 2
scenicsRme

Installing peninsula backdrop

When working with a long sheet of thin material like vinyl flashing, my choice for background covering: First I would (re-)roll it face side in in a roll about 18" in diameter.  I would then simply strategically place a pinch clamp, or even a couple spring clothespins along the top end of the roll to keep it from unrolling or falling over as I applied it from left to right (counter clockwise) around the support Moving the clamp in towards the center of the roll one layer at a time. If the surface in front of the support was too uneven for the roll to stand, another way to work with it is to find a cardboard box about 12"- 16" cubed, tape all the bottom edges securely with clear or tan plastic packing tape. Slit one side from top to bottom about 2" from the corner. Roll the vinyl flashing backside out. Stand the roll in the box allowing it to unroll until it is snug in the box and feed the end out the slit so you can pull it out like a roll of aluminum foil as you work around the support again left to right. If the roll still wants to fall over, tape a larger piece of cardboard. say 24 x 24" to the bottom of the box to give it a larger base.

Reply 0
jeffshultz

Arizona Rock & Mineral

Joe, 

When it comes to light gray rock, I get AR&M's Northern Pacific Medium Gray Granite, No. 130-x. 

 

orange70.jpg
Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 1
HN1951

Looks really good!

Joe

The backdrop certainly came out looking good.  Thanks for the shout-out and I'm glad I was to help with the hints.

 

Rick G.
​C&O Hawks Nest Sub-division c. 1951

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Thank you

Quote:

When it comes to light gray rock, I get AR&M's Northern Pacific Medium Gray Granite, No. 130-x. 

Thanks Jeff.  That looks really good.  I think it might be a bit too dark to represent IAIS ballast, but something I'll definitely keep in mind.

Quote:

The backdrop certainly came out looking good.  Thanks for the shout-out and I'm glad I was to help with the hints.

Thanks very much Rick!  Your tips were a huge help on the peninsula.

Reply 0
rails of southwestern ia

Ballast

Just so you know, the ballast along Highway 6 (Anita to Wyota) Has been kinda a pink/red color for as long as I can remember (Probably about 2009) so that gives it 3 years to change but still good to know.
By the way great progress on that, can’t wait to see how the Bridges go, there’s a lot of them along the stretch between Wyota and Adair, The most interesting most likely being kinda near where the train robbery happened. 
Anyways if you need anymore info on stuff, just let me know, I will be back in Iowa In December, So I’m not sure how much I can go look around in the winter but I will try!

Reply 1
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Cameron

Thanks Cameron.  Agreed about that "Pink Lady" ballast being around for a long time.  However, I've never seen any evidence of it existing back in my 2005 era on the IAIS.

And thanks for the bridge tips.  I'm thinking I'll likely just have one small one east of Anita.  I know the one you're talking about by the train robbery marker, but it's too big for the space I have.

I appreciate your offer to help!  Have a nice Thanksgiving.

Reply 0
jimfitch
What adhesive was used to attach the vinyl flashing to the risers?  Btw, I reached out to the contact regarding the 24" wide roles you got last January.  He told me he didn't inventory it and gave me a phone number for York flashing and to ask for Pete.  I tried calling several times yesterday and it just rang and rang.  No answer.  Any other sources for 24" wide vinyl flashing?

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan
Hi Jim - That was where the cove base adhesive came in.  Same thing I used to attach to the walls.

Unfortunately, the contact I provided was the only one I'm aware of unless you're willing to use 18" wide rolls instead.  Those are available at Walmart.com.  However, given the number of people and entire offices stepping away this week, I'd suggest trying York again next week.
Reply 0
jimfitch
Hello Joe,

I'm reviving since I did manage to get a 50' roll of the vinyl flashing from York recently.  I took it out of the box was was surprised at how thin it was.  So assuming it's the same as yours,  I tried test wrapping it around a support structure below at the other end where  there is a circle a bit more than 180 degrees.  Since it is so thin, it seems likely to pull taught so it flattens between the posts.  The posts are about 15 or so inches apart at that end.

How did you over come this?  It's almost as if I need to wrap something a bit thicker around first and attach the vinyl to it for a bit of stiffness so it doesn't pull taught between the posts.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan
Hi Jim,
I see what looks like Masonite strips along the bottom of your vertical supports, but not along the top.  I believe that may be the missing ingredient that's causing the vinyl to "stringline".  In my first reply, I wrote,

"...with 3"x8' Masonite strips running horizontally along the top and bottom, attached to the vertical supports using adhesive caulk.  I got the idea for the latter from Rick Gartrell ("HN1951" here).  I attached the vinyl to the Masonite using the same cove base adhesive used on the coved corners, then clamped as it dried."
Reply 0
jimfitch
Hi Jim,
I see what looks like Masonite strips along the bottom of your vertical supports, but not along the top.  I believe that may be the missing ingredient that's causing the vinyl to "stringline".  In my first reply, I wrote,

"...with 3"x8' Masonite strips running horizontally along the top and bottom, attached to the vertical supports using adhesive caulk.  I got the idea for the latter from Rick Gartrell ("HN1951" here).  I attached the vinyl to the Masonite using the same cove base adhesive used on the coved corners, then clamped as it dried."

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 0
jimfitch
Actually those are cardboard strips on the edge of the track as temp guard rails.

As I was in the train room it occurred to me the solution - hardboard strips to support the thin vinyl flashing.   It seems for good support I'll need top, middle and bottom strips around 3 or 4 inches wide.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan
I haven't posted anything on MRH in a while, but since I was promoting the advantages of rolled vinyl flashing for backdrops in this thread, I thought I'd better update it with my latest findings.

While I was extremely happy with rolled vinyl flashing for coving my backdrop corners and forming the curve at the end of the mainline peninsula, I was disappointed with how it worked out in the long, straight sections of the peninsula.  It might have been fine if I had more hands during install to ensure that it laid flat, but I didn't, and it didn't.  And the same near-instant-hold strength that made wall base adhesive such a great option for attaching rolled vinyl when coving corners proved to be my nemesis when trying to hold the roll of vinyl upright while also unrolling it and getting it to lay down flat.

I've been living with the results of that failed experiment for a year.  True to my lazy self, at first I thought about painting clouds to hide the shadows created by the waves in the vinyl, but I fortunately wised up before even attempting that.  I eventually came to accept the fact that I'd have to replace the vinyl mid-section, and last weekend I decided it was finally time.  My solution was to rip a new 4x8' sheet of Masonite into two 24"H x 8'W sections, cut about a 6' section of vinyl out of the middle of the backdrop on each side of the peninsula, and then insert the Masonite in those gaps, with about 12" of vinyl overlapping each end. 

I bonded the vinyl to the Masonite, and tomorrow plan to mud the joints. I hope to have everything finished and painted by the weekend.  Here are a few pics.

Original vinyl backdrop with those waves I fought desperately to ignore.
IMG_9591.JPG

Wavy portion of the vinyl backdrop removed.
May be an image of indoor

May be an image of indoor

Masonite in place and ready for the vinyl to be attached.
May be an image of indoor

Vinyl bonded to Masonite.
May be an image of indoor

May be an image of indoor

I still believe this vinyl flashing offers what is easily my favorite method I've ever seen for short curved sections of backdrop, such as coved corners and the turnback curve at the end of the peninsula, but just not well-suited to long straightaways.  Combining the vinyl with Masonite, though, gave me the best of both worlds.
Reply 6
jimfitch
Joe,

Thanks for the update.  As it happens, I'm still working on the Masonite supports for the curved parts of my backdrop but I've been using Masonite for the straight or nearly straight parts.  Looks like I dodged the bullet not using the vinyl flashing for the flat parts.



For the curved parts I've attached a top, bottom and middle strip of 4 inch Masonite, that way there is support for the vinyl flashing enough hopefully.  I haven't mounted the flashing yet, but hope to later this fall when I get some hobby time.  I have more recent photo's but need to get them uploaded.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 2
David Husman dave1905
I wonder if you put Masonite as a "support" behind the straight portions, then used the vinyl as the surface, bonding the vinyl to the Masonite in the straights and just using the vertical supports in the curves.  That would eliminate the seams but give the vinyl a smooth surface to eliminate the waves in the straights.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

Reply 1
Joe Atkinson IAISfan
Jim, I think you'll be fine using vinyl as you described.  Working with smaller sections of vinyl, I didn't encounter a single issue.  It's when you get into longer runs that it becomes problematic, because your positioning at the start of your run - the base of the peninsula, for example - has to be perfect, or else it'll throw off the alignment as you curve around the end and return on the other side.  Even the slightest mistake at the start will be increasingly magnified throughout the run, and attempting to correct those issues is what I believe caused the waves in my application.

Dave, I considered laminating vinyl over Masonite, but the positioning challenge mentioned above would remain.  The other difficulty is that, regardless of how smooth the surface is, it's very difficult to manage a 24" high roll of vinyl while also unrolling it and ensuring that it lays flat AND is properly positioned.  Again, I would have been much better off if I'd enlisted help, but I'm still not confident I could have avoided the problems entirely.

On the other hand, working with shorter lengths - about the equivalent of your arm span or slightly greater - is very manageable.  Coving the room corners was downright simple.  And fortunately, the vinyl is so thin that it's easy to hide the joints with pre-mixed drywall mud.  I easily mudded all four of my new joints over a 30 minute lunch break, and plan to sand and do a second skim coat tomorrow about the same time.
Reply 4
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