And

what 3D CAD software are you using to design your prints and what slicer?

Bernd

And down the 3D Printing rabbit hole we go...

So after a few false starts, tonight I managed to successfully print a set of GRS TR-2 Triangular Colour Light - Background Discs, with the lens hoods.

The process has also required me to learn Fusion 360 & Chitubox, these are the programs that have allowed me to design the pieces in a 3D render that can be converted into a .STL file that is able to be converted so that the printer can print the build, and the program that slices the builds and adds supports to assist in printing.

3D printing has as many quirks & catches for the unfamiliar as modelling does. I’ve already picked up a few differences between printing straight on the build plate, as opposed to angling the print and using supports.

This was printed at 0.05mm per layer that’s 0.001968504 of an inch. With close-up photos you can make out the layers, but we are talking about something that’s HO Scale and will be rarely viewed at such close range.

Tomorrow I’ll try a full set of Background Disc, Light Cabinet & Rear Door/Cover as a set. If this is successful I’ll be printing a full set for replacing the old IHC ones that are on the layout.

Here's a photo of the completed Background Disc, and a video of the first batch curing in the UV Curing Machine.

More to follow as I progress with 3D Printing...

Jason.

These Bernd...

Fusion 360 for the 3D - Rendering Software & Chitubox 1.8.1 for the Slicer software.

The printer is a Phrozen - Sonic Mini 4K...

Jason...

....

We're at a point where the slicer software is pretty much irrelevant.  It comes with the machine and it does what it's supposed to do essentially without being told.

@Jason

Thanks for the information. Those three monitors are quite impressive. I'm learning Fusion 360 and have Chitubox for the Photon printer. Great new tool for modeling.

I'll be following your progress. Great pictures by the way.

Bernd

Slicer Software choice irrelevant?

Dear MRHers, 

...until file-interchange, or Printer-Firmware<> specific-Slicer-Software bindings come into the picture,
then "which slicing software" and indeed even "which specific slicing software version" does very much become relevant in the pursuit of a "workflow which just works"... 
(as is said on many 3D print fora "...do you want a new hobby, or a tool to create stuff for your existing hobby?")

Arguably the most "Plug n Play" option for the typical modeller is the FormLab system
(Form2 or Form3 printer + PreForm software), but with FormLab's own resin in enclosed resin tanks and the printers being significantly more $$$$ than the AnyCubic/Creality sized options,
IMHO you get the level of seamless integration, reliability, reproducibility, and ease of use you pay for...

Formlab Form2 print of a "first 10 hours with AutoCAD Fusion" C&O Watertank frame

Frame and 3d print footings painted, temporarily mounted to a Walthers watertank  

Frame, 3d print footings and scratchbuilt watertank body inc 3d print tank-band tensioners, in-situ 

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Phrozen Transform (Original) + ChituBox 1.8.1 + AutoCAD Fusion
Formlab Form2 + PreForm + AutoCAD Fusion

What is the prototype for the

What is the prototype for the water tank legs?  The C&O did. metal and I scratch built one and it was a pain in the…

Yours looks really nice

-Doug M

Watertank legs..

Dear Doug,

...which is why I elected to do my C&O tank legs as 3D print with drawing in AutoCAD Fusion...

Seriously, it was my first "serious scale-model" Fusion drawing, and I set myself the challenge to pit proper scratchbuilding against AutoCAD + 3D print. Equal time allowed for both methods, same modeller doing the work, lets see who wins...

After 10 hours given to each method:

- Styrene L/I channels and strip had both major vertical frames, and the octagonal tank-base "done", 
which was pleasing because "as fast as I could measure/cut/think it thru", it appeared by my hands on the bench in front of me, physical, tangible... but pending a lot of fiddly detail...

- AutoCAD had a drawing that looked "somewhat" like the completed frame,
inc _all_ legs, horizontals, the octagonal tank-base, and those fiddle "X brace" members...
...but I knew I had contravened a load of "drawing rules",
I had parts with minute-but-geommetrically-problematic alignment offsets,
and untold "what works in the visual space is simply impossible if created from physical L/I beams" errors...

...so, I put the styrene "physical build" on-hold,

"File> New Drawing" a fresh start in AutoCAD,

and at the 20-hour mark I had a complete "new from ground-up" drawing,
INC all rivet, weld-seam, and splice-plate detail,
created in a much more displined and "virtual enironment correct" manner, ready to print as you see here...
...with detail levels inc such things as actual 0.010" air-gap spaces between the 4x "L channel" vertical leg assembly components, which I simply could not have achieved by-hand...
(maybe if I'd been scratchbuilding in brass, but that would have been a whole 'nother mission story...)

I wouldn't say 3D printing is the appropriate tool for every task,
and there are certainly speed and satisfaction benefits from just "zen-ing out at the workbench, and a few hours later pushing-back to see the model that's appeared in front of you by your own hands",

but the results in this case proved to me that AutoCAD/3D print definitely "has a place" in my modelling-skills/toolbox arsenal...
(assuming you have a STL --> Slicer --> Printer --> clean-and-cure workflow which is known reliable and reproducible... the watertank components benefitted from the predictable and reliable behaviour of a FormLab Form2 printing rig...   ).

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Just ordered new printer

After years of using a filament printer I went and ordered a EPAX X156 15.6 inch UV LCD 3D Printer as it looks like resin printing is the way to go. 

I don't use AutoCAD, instead I use DesignCAD which is much cheaper. As I already have the drawings for the Relco MOW train, guess I try then first. The Shapways products were nice but rough due to the cheaper plastic in which I had them printed.

Happy Railroading

Greg

...

You're over thinking the slicer software especially since it's now delivered with the 3D printers.

It comes with the machine, you install it on your computer you use to process your drafting, the software literally does everything but place and position the model on the build plate.  Maybe there was a time it was more complicated, but that time has passed.

This discussion reminds me of when I got my laser cutter and there was a lot of hoopla back then about what cutting program people used because we were still so near to the era where paths had to be individually programmed.  That whole era passed before it was even routine.

My STLs hit the slicer 100% ready to go, whereas I provide the supports and the orientation while I'm doing my CAD work.  End result, less post production cleanup.

Manual Switch Throws…

Moving along with the way Fusion 360 works, and really starting to get a feel for how powerful this software can be.

I’m going to need quite a lot of these manual throws, so I designed these in about a day.  They’re only 10mm x 5mm (25/64 - 0.39” x 13/64 - 0.19”) and will be placed anywhere that I have a manual “finger” throw with the Peco - centre over spring turnouts.

Won’t be much more detailing done as it just won’t be seen, if it’s a bigger scale like O Scale they’d look pretty awesome with the curved edges and finer detail.

AutoCAD Fusion cost

Dear MRHers,

Um, AutoCAD Fusion Personal is Free, unsure how it gets much cheaper?

https://www.autodesk.com.au/products/fusion-360/personal

(Haven't paid a cent yet, and have been freely drawing and build/printing with Fusion for at least 4 years now).

Yes, there are some featureset limitations compared to the "full freight" versions,
but I've personally yet to bump into any walls in my drawing projects or printing workflows,
If you're focussing on 3D print only, the "missing" multi-axis milling and extended functions are redundant,
and the lesser-featureset arguably makes it easier to get-started and up-to--speed...
(Less options to get lost in when you're first "wanderiing around, checking out what's what",
less "Massive Menu Shock", just the basics/fundamentals one needs, and nothing more...)

...but, as always, if you've found a tool that works for you, then have-at-it...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

part orientation

i know everyone says to print at an angle, but I find your prints will look smoother if you print them vertical.  I know the lines are hard to see at small scales, but weathering will highlight them.  Another thing to keep in mind is to not place supports on mating surfaces if you can avoid it, or if you do have to make sure they are not on a critical edge.  Last, don't be afraid to make models into multiple pieces, every part seems to have an orientation that it prints best at, if you combine to many parts into one model some parts will look good and others won't or will require a support that will ruin the detail.

3D printing at an angle is a

3D printing at an angle is a math equation,  If you do not know the height of your slice and the resolution of you screen matrix and then do the math you will not be printing at the correct angle.  Just dropping a object into the build and setting it at 45 degrees will not get you good results.

You will get the skip lines in your print.   If just setting your object at let say 45 degrees when the math says it should be done at 46.62 or 40.250 etc. etc.

....

When mathematics is converted to pixels, the result is a stepped slope no matter what angle you choose.

Hence why printing any flat face at angle 0 or 90 is best.  However, when you print at 0 or 90, you encounter the problem of pillow formations on any plane facing the build plate.  My solution so far is to simply avoid visible or structurally significant planes towards the build plate.

I print flat on the plate

I print flat on the plate too.

...

At this time of the year, those look amazing...

Printing flat on the build plate, sort of

Welcome to the hobby within the hobby!

I struggled with my initial prints adhering to the build plate (I have an Anycubic Photon resin printer) and tried various angles, support strategies, etc. I finally purchased a Flexible Build Plate system from Wham Bam Systems ( FBS for Resin (whambamsystems.com). FWIW this has been a complete game changer for me. I've printed a variety of things with substantial surface area right on the build plate (lately printing some micro servo mounting brackets I designed) and these things literally pop of the flexible plate. No need for a scraper! I have no financial interest in Wham Bam Systems - just a very happy customer!

Flex Plate

Great news Chuck.  I have an Anycubic Photon resin printer and purchased a Wham Bam flex plate. I have yet to print anything. Good to hear it works. Did you have to extend the homing flag? It's that device that tells the printer it's homed.

Bernd

Bernd - yes, there's a "hack" to extend the homing flag!

Yes, you definitely have to modify the homing flag mount but this is quite easy. I found a reference somewhere online but basically you just add a few washers to the flag mount. Here's a photo of mine (photo is rotated left):

Did you have to extend the homing flag?

You just print the little part that adds that extra dimension to the flag,  looks like a little cinder block,  Do it before you add the plate of if you have 2 printers do it on the other printer.

Brass

I made a homing flag out of a piece of brass. Works great.

Bernd

Dialling everything in...

Well 3D printing isn't really a straight out of the box, and away you go type of venture...

But then I did expect this, whilst I knew I was in for a learning curve with the Fusion 360 - Software and the Slicer Software, I wasn't prepared for the frustration of getting the print settings, the lift speed, the exposure time, the support structure setup, X & Y angles, the room temperature for resin, the build plate levelling...

There is lot to get working together to get successful prints consistently.

Yesterday I changed over Slicer Software and started using Lychee, after several hours of research on YouTube and on Phrozens FB Group, I had a good base point to reset and start working from.

 

After the first print using Lychee, and altering a few settings, I had a successful print, with only two issues.  Four successful prints, and the two that lifted were more about incorrect support structure, or not enough.

Rome wasn't built in a day, but I'm starting to see progress now...

Jason.

Not sure why you are having

Not sure why you are having so many issues?  I would print the signal faces flat, Face Up.  This way you will have a perfectly flat face on them that is totally clean of any layer lines.  Any thing that is flat coming off the FEP will be perfectly smooth like glass.