MannsCreekRR

as some of the subassemblies become final prints I have been painting them and doing some weathering.  Getting the engine subassembly done was a big leap forward.  I also upgraded my printer with the Epax 4K mod and many of the final prints are coming off the printer, and the resolution is fantastic.

The frame has been printed and next week I will be assembling and painting it.  I am really happy with the new frame design, much more details than the first.

I painted the smokebox and firebox a gray color and did some weathering with oil paints and enamel washes.  The trucks were painted black and enamel washes were used to give a base weathering.  For the engine assembly I wanted the look of wet steam, typical of an operating shay, I am not sure I like it yet, I won' know until I get the boiler painted and weathered and I will see if it stands out too much

again, here are some images, all parts are just set in place, except the engine and trucks are assembled.

08-18(1).jpg 08-14(1).jpg Y%208-13.jpg Y%208-11.jpg Y%208-17.jpg 

Jeff Kraker

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Reply 1
Bernd

Beautiful

You have done an outstanding job showing how to use 3D print technology to make complicated parts that can be assembled into a finished product. To many modelers want to just push a button and have the whole engine printed.

Can't wait to see the final product running and fully weathered. Excellent workmanship.

Bernd

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds - NCSWIC

Reply 0
MannsCreekRR

Every part has its way to print

thank you

As much as I would like to just "push a button" and get the entire model, I feel that every part has a way to print it best, and if the model was printed as a detailed model right off the printer some parts would look good and others not so much.  I break the model down into parts so that every part can be orientated on the bed the best way.  Supports can then be placed on surfaces that are not visible, which results in nice smooth finishes where it matters.  printing separate parts also makes it easier to paint and weather. 

The smokebox is a separate piece, so is the smokebox front.  both parts have to be orientated and supported totally different.  here is an example

08-19(1).jpg 

Jeff Kraker

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Reply 0
MikeHughes

Impressive work.

You may have already covered this in another thread but curious which model printer and CAD and printing software you are using. I’ve been debating taking the 3D plunge.

Reply 0
jmt99atsf

Very Nice

You have done a magnificent job on the engine.

John

Modeling the ATSF Paradigm Division in N-Scale 

‪https://www.youtube.com/user/tanzj

Reply 0
Douglas Meyer

how do you like your new

how do you like your new printer?

-Doug M

Reply 0
Bernd

@Jeff

Interesting support structuring in that boiler front.  I guess that's one of the big secretes of 3D printing. Something I'll be getting into this fall. I started a design of an auger I'll need to make an animated loader that will load aggregate into a conveyor. I've gotten to the Chitubox slicer so far. Haven't figure which way to position the auger for best results. Guess I'll find out this fall when I get back to modeling.

Bernd

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds - NCSWIC

Reply 0
NFG-RR

You've done it again!

Your talent never ceases to amaze me! Cant wait to see your progress on your  layout.

Denzil

Denzil Stull

Reply 0
MannsCreekRR

thanks!!

thank you

The printer I am using is an Epax X1 with the 4k modifications and the addition of the parallel light source.  Honestly, I should have just bought a 4K printer, maybe a different brand, but this printers mechanical construction was really good, so I just did the mods to it.

The Software I use is Autodesk Inventor.

Part orientation, I find works best if you can do as much of the finished surface vertical.  You will see a lot of post on printing at 45°, which I do some of that as well, but for parts that need a totally smooth surface I like them to be vertical (meaning perpendicular to the build plate).  The frame was printed in two pieces, split right behind the cylinders.  I supported them with the pilots facing the build plate and the I-beams perpendicular to the build plate, which minimized the supports required.

 

Jeff Kraker

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Reply 0
MikeHughes

Thanks Jeff

I’ve been doing lots of reading about printers and you seem to be getting great results - it sounds more likely due to skill and experience than the device - but this is a brand I’d not heard of before.

If you were buying one today, would this still be at the top of your list?  While I worry about the fumes, the reason printers seems amazing, but then maybe one really needs both that and filament depending on the job.

Reply 0
p51

Great paint work

That is some amazing weathering, especially in that first photo!

Reply 0
railman28

Excellent!!

what a beauty ...or is it a beast? Whatever is a award winner. Fabulous results.

 

Bob

Reply 0
MannsCreekRR

printers and smell

i think that all the printers now are producing good prints.  If you search YouTube for 3Dprintingpro there are really good honest reviews of the different printers.  I purchased the Epax printer because they have USA support, which may not be that big of a deal but it did come in handy when I wanted to see if I could upgrade my printer.  I sent an email to Epax and in a short time I got an email back with an answer, then I sent an image of my printer and they sent a list of everything I needed, it was really nice.  The downside of Epax printers is they are twice the price, but they are really built well, all metal construction and well braced.

the smell issue depends on the resin, many of the resins being made now do not smell, or smell very little.  I am using Anycubic resin and it has no smell when printing.  Now if they could fix the sticky part we would be golden.  Above all things resin printing is sticky, not stinky.

Jeff Kraker

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Reply 0
MannsCreekRR

Pilot work

I added the details on the pilots, except for the foot boards, I will add those to the frame last.  The front pilot has some very interesting details, some of which are a mystery.  As you can see on the prototype there is a steel channel over the front of the bottom wood beam, it is not as wide as the wood beam.  There are also many holes that appear to not have bolts in them.  

The Pilot of Shay 8 is actually pretty interesting when you really look at it.  Something that I did not know before I got into this project is the actually design and construction of Shay pilots.  The typical (as delivered) pilot on a shay is two wood beams, on this size shay they are 8” x 12” on the bottom and 8” x 10” on the top.  The lower beam is backed by a steel C-channel that is gusseted and braced back to the steam I-beams and the front truck bolster.  The lower beam is actually the work horse of the two and takes all the forces from coupling.  The upper beam is just bolted in place with plates to the I-beam steel frame.

Here is a photo of Ely-Thomas shay #5, you can see the lower beam and the C-channel that backs it, also the upper and lower wood beams.

063553-1.png 

The interesting thing about Manns Creek Shay #8 is that the lower wood beam on both the front and the rear of the locomotive has a second C-channel on the front sides.  The front C-channel is not as long as the wood beam and you can see that the ends of the beam stick out farther.  The rear C-channel is the same length as the wood beam and completely covers it….”why is this you ask”, I asked myself the same thing.  Here is what I think about MC #8 and the great c-channel mystery.

According to the Lima frame fabrication drawing that I bought from the California railroad museum, on a 37-42 ton shay the front pilot width is 96” and the rear is 102”

063553-2.png 

However, MC’s #8 is a bigger shay, it was specifically ordered for coal train service, and the frame is a slightly different design, and aside from other things the front pilot beam is the same width on the front and the rear of the locomotive.  “So what does this have to do with the C-channels on the front of the lower beams”?  Well, if you look at those C-channels you can see that they have all kinds of holes in them that are not being used, but they must have been for something because nobody back then would go through the trouble of making holes in steel that were not needed.  You will also note that the holes seem to be in a pattern, and if you look you will see that the pattern looks the same as the bolted on plates that DO have bolts in them (well most have bolts in them).

063553-3.png 

063553-4.png 

Here is my theory, those steel beams were actually the backing beams from a scrapped shay.  When Babcock Coal and Coke purchased the Manns Creek and Sewell lumber they combined all their locomotives, about 8-10 of them.  When the lumber business shut down many were scrapped and useful pieces may have been kept for repairs.  You can see the hole patterns match the hole patterns for the frame gussets that you can see in the first photo of ET#5.  The front beam is not as long because the shay it came from had the 96” wide pilot.  The holes do not line up because the beam is flipped around.  My guess is that it was easier to encase the rotting and damaged wood beam with the steel beams because they had the steel beams just laying around, and maybe they figured they would fix it once and for all.  It makes sense if you look at some of the wood hopper cars, which not only were getting steel plates to fix rotting wood, but some even getting steel frames and end beams, as seen on hopper car #9

here is a photo of the front pilot on my model.

Y%208-21.jpg 

Jeff Kraker

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