Roger Litwiller

Experimenting with some N Scale singles slip switches today. 

AFEE327.jpeg 
6ECBBEE.jpeg I am hoping to build a new yard with the slip switches and laid them out temporarily to see how well they perform. 

Disappointing results. Engines shakes heavily passing over the switches. Most of the time the engine will pass over when aligned to the through position. When set to slip onto the adjoining track, it is 50/50 if the engine stays on track or derails. Low speeds work better, higher speed is very poor. 

39F2BD1.jpeg Bought these at a train show several years ago for $2 each. Back of switch marked “rapido” & Made in Germany.  Instruction sheet is labeled Revell/Rapido, MicroTRAINS. 

I have already ensured the wheels and couplers on the engine are properly gauged.

I would appreciate any suggestions to improve performance or recommendations for an alternative slip switch.

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Roger Litwiller -Author

View my layout, "Trenton Subdivision in N Scale" on the Railroading Page on my website.  rogerlitwiller.com

READ my MRH Blog.

Reply 0
avrinnscale

N Scale single slip switches

Gee Roger, you know that old cliche, "you get what you paid for"?  Well, I'm afraid that's what you've done.  Hopefully, a $2 investment won't leave a big hole in your budget.  The Revell/Rapido N scale era was back in the 1960's and 1970's, when N scale was notoriously unreliable.  Things are much better today.

It'll be a much bigger bite, but I'd suggest if you want reliable operation you buy a newer switch made by Peco or the track source of your choice, or re-engineer the switch locations to avoid that particular cross-over.

Geof

Geof Smith

Modeling northern New England in N scale. 

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Roger Litwiller

Thanks. Doesn’t hurt to try. 

Thanks. Doesn’t hurt to try. 

Roger Litwiller -Author

View my layout, "Trenton Subdivision in N Scale" on the Railroading Page on my website.  rogerlitwiller.com

READ my MRH Blog.

Reply 0
LensCapOn

There are several good articles, somewhere

There are several good articles, somewhere, on updating old switches. Wish I could remember where they were.

 

In a nutshell, which will be painfully obvious to some, the guides are too wide and the flangeway is too deep. Look at the wheelsets from when the switch was designed and the are far courser than modern standards. The tread is far narrower and the flange far shallower. The wide flange guides allow too much side motion through the points and truck needs to run on it's flanges through the frog. Have the flange way over twice the depth needed and the engines rock and roll through the switch.

 

They are fixable but you best read some and have a spare $2.00  switch to practice on.

Reply 0
barr_ceo

Save your time and frustration

…and just buy a PECO N gauge single slip. yes they’re pricey ($60~70 USD each) but at least you’ll be starting with a turnout made to modern (European) specs. You’ll probably still need to fiddle with it, especially if you use lo-profile wheels. But you’ll be a lot better off than trying to use something that’s probably been rejected a dozen times or more since it was manufactured. Not to mention the 60 year old plastic may well be warped and/or brittle by this point. 

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