GNNPNUT

One of the items I'm finding is if I don't design constantly with Fusion 360, I start to forget the odd "foundation" items, and have to spend time relearning stuff.  I don't like doing that, so I've decided that I have to keep something "on the burner" when it comes to 3D design and printing. 

Two projects that I knocked off were water tower components, and engine terminal utility line trusses.  As usual, printer is my Prusa Mini FFF type printer.  Nozzle for all of the work was the 0.25mm, with a Z axis resolution of 0.05 mm.  I also cut the feed by 50%, and that virtually eliminates  high melt areas at the end of long runs (like on the "C" channels).  The water tower base was done with the standard 0.4mm nozzle, standard feed rate, and 0.15mm Z axis resolution.  I don't need precision for cast concrete blocks, and a base that is going to be covered up with scenery.

About 20 years ago, I finished my original roundhouse and engine terminal.  I built utility lines on the garden tracks based on a plan my friend gave me out of a South River Modelworks kit.  I did it all out of styrene, the SRM kit used etched parts for the top brace that held the lines, and wood for the structural members. 

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I needed another four of these for my new engine terminal.  Designed them up, printed out and glued together a total of six parts for each assembly, two main structures glued back to back (mirror image), and four "C" channels that reinforce the structure.  I needed four, and my friend that gave me the original drawing from the SRM kit needed five too.  So, I printed and glued together 10 of them, just to have one extra.   

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As part of the build of my second engine terminal, I also purchased and built one Tichy steel water tower, two Tichy steel tank kits, two Tichy water columns, and two Tichy oil columns.  There are extra parts in the Tichy kit, and another friend of mine that puts in a lot of horsepower-hours on my layout needs a small water tower for his engine terminal.  No problem, I had all these extra Tichy parts, consisting of the entire tank assembly, and he smaller columns, but I needed the center water column parts, and a base.  No problem, designed them up.  The completed Tichy column (still needs paint) is on the left.  The smaller tank, with the off-white 3D printed parts is on the right.  It won't take much to finish up the other kit, and I'll paint them both at the same time.

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BTW, I did this water tank to work off horsepower hours that my friend Allen is putting in on my railroad.  He recently did this structure for me, consisting of a City Classic kit and a Walthers modular kit that he modified where needed, and added in details.  He is still working on a water tank to go on top of the Walthers kit. 

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Looking forward to finishing up this scene.

Regards,

Jerry

 

 

GNNPNUT's blog

Reply 0
UP__1995

Those parts look great! Have

Those parts look great! Have you tried using SLA or another type of resin 3D printer to manufacture part? 

My work can be found here

Reply 0
Greg Amer gregamer

Wow!

Some good looking parts. I've tasked my kids with learning 3D printing. Hopefully it pays off in the future

Reply 0
pby_fr

Great work

How much details do you get with this type of printer? I really don't want the mess of a resin printed, therefore I must one time look at such printer.

Reply 0
GNNPNUT

Hi UP__1995

No, have not tried SLA or DLP printing yet.  I'm still "honing" my 3D design skills, and what I've been getting off of my printer to date is meeting my expectations.  By the way, your 3D design skills are way beyond where I am at this point.  The Oshkosh truck you have done is outstanding.   

Full disclosure, my Prusa Mini isn't going to replicate the detail level that you are getting off of a resin printer.  But dimensionally, it is repeatable.  Probably the worst of it is the "pattern" that results from flat surfaces, where the extrusion lines are present.  I do one thing to help that though, I decrease the "top solid infill" setting in Prusa slicer to 75% of the default value of the nozzle I am using.  I picked that hint off of the Prusa forums, and it pretty much does the same thing as "ironing" that people do in Cura, where a hot nozzle is run over the last layer.  That tends to cook any residual material inside the nozzle though, so I'm not keen on doing that. 

I'm curious as to what resin printer you are using.  I'm looked at the Prusa SL1, and I'm leaning on that path if I decide to go resin.  Also looked at the Elegoo Saturn, and it's predecessor, the Elegoo Mars.  It appears that Elegoo has great support, but so does Prusa, and I REALLY like Prusa's documentation and support.  On the resin side, whether it is worth the delta, I don't know.  On the FFF type printer side, what drove me to the Prusa was the spring steel coated bed plate, and leveling software.  I don't have first level issues unless I start having extrusion problems.  I've learned what I need to do in order to avoid that on my printer, so my prints almost always are successful, and repeat that way when I do a batch run. 

At some point, I want to be doing some steam era freight cars, and I'm pretty sure that is going to force me down the resin path.  But I'm still having way too much fun designing things to print on my Prusa Mini. 

Regards.

Jerry

 

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